What's In My Jar
AHC Youth Focus Cream
AHC

AHC Youth Focus Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
Retinal, Adenosine + 7 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“AHC Youth Focus with Pro Retinal for 11x faster conversion than Retinol to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.”
Source: Supderdrug

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine, centella asiatica extract, folic acid, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%
RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%
Folic acidKey activeEffect: MediumCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.2–0.4%
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.1%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, Panthenol + 28 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“AHC Youth Focus with Pro Retinal for 11x faster conversion than Retinol to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Clinically proven AHC Youth Focus Cream fights 6 types of wrinkles and fine lines, improves skin elasticity (Carnosine), brightens dull skin (Bisabolol) and greatly improves moisture level in 14 days.”
Source: Supderdrug

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, fructooligosaccharides.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: squalene, cholesterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, panthenol

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%
FructooligosaccharidesKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelp attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.4–1.7%
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.2–0.4%
Laminaria japonica extractKey activeEffect: HighSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.5%
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.1%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.3–2.8%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%
Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.25–0.5%
Corallina officinalis extractKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.4%
Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%
Brassica campestris sterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelp soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.5–0.75%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.3–0.55%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.6–1.9%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.25–0.5%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~1.1–1.4%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.9–2.3%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~3.9–4.8%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.4–0.6%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Retinal, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Clinically proven AHC Youth Focus Cream fights 6 types of wrinkles and fine lines, improves skin elasticity (Carnosine), brightens dull skin (Bisabolol) and greatly improves moisture level in 14 days.”
Source: Supderdrug

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Retinal, Beta-glucan + 2 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinalHeroEffect: HighOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%
Melia azadirachta leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Carnosine, Centella asiatica extract + 13 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - centella asiatica extract, ficus carica fruit extract, squalene also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.25–0.45%
Centella asiatica extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.3–0.55%
SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~2.3–2.8%
Ficus carica fruit extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.2–0.4%
Corallina officinalis extractEffect: LowRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants~0.2–0.4%
Melia azadirachta flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin~0.2–0.4%
AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf waterEffect: LowGreen tea leaf water. Might have some minimal anti-oxidant effect~0.1–0.15%
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.4%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.2–0.35%
Eclipta prostrata leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.4–0.6%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.25–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Eclipta prostrata leaf extractA plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effectHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Melia azadirachta leaf extractA plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Ocimum sanctum leaf extractA plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicalsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Curcuma longa root extractA plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
RetinalOne step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~2.1–2.6%est.
Polyglyceryl-2 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Melia azadirachta flower extractA plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.25–0.4%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria japonica extractSeaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties3/5~0.25–0.5%est.
Corallina officinalis extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants3/5~0.2–0.4%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~2.3–2.8%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.5–0.75%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.3–0.55%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.4–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Cyclohexasiloxane~3.9–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
1,2-hexanediol~2.1–2.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Squalene~2.3–2.8%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.9–2.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Cetyl alcohol~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Glycerin~1.4–1.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Behenyl alcohol~1.1–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Cetearyl olivate~0.7–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Polyglyceryl-2 stearate~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-2 stearate
Bisabolol~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Cetearyl alcohol~0.5–0.75%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Sorbitan olivate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Glyceryl stearate~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Stearyl alcohol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol
Dipropylene glycol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Glyceryl stearate se~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Laminaria japonica extract~0.25–0.5%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Seaweed extract that might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Laminaria japonica extract
Eclipta prostrata leaf extract~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is mostly used as a fragrance. Might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Eclipta prostrata leaf extract
Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Cholesterol~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Adenosine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Fructooligosaccharides~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Fructooligosaccharides
Melia azadirachta flower extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Melia azadirachta flower extract
Melia azadirachta leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating

More about Melia azadirachta leaf extract
Ceramide np~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Beta-glucan~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Ficus carica fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Centella asiatica extract~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Ocimum sanctum leaf extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals

More about Ocimum sanctum leaf extract
Curcuma longa root extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can contain an active compound curcumin, that may have some anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, but solid research is lacking and the typical concentration used in skincare products is too low. Can be an irritant

More about Curcuma longa root extract
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.5%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Panthenol~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid
Corallina officinalis extract~0.2–0.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants

More about Corallina officinalis extract
Raffinose~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Raffinose
Folic acid~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-aging

Can help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin

More about Folic acid
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Retinal~0.2–0.4%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating

More about Retinal
Peg-5 rapeseed sterol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Peg-5 rapeseed sterol
Silica~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Brassica campestris sterols~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Brassica campestris sterols
Carnosine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Ceteth-3~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-3
Ceteth-5~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-5
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate
Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Sucrose distearate~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Sucrose distearate
Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.1–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Tromethamine~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Camellia sinensis leaf water~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Green tea leaf water. Might have some minimal anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia sinensis leaf water
Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.1–0.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8
Disodium edta~0.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4~0.05–0.1%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-hexanediol, Squalene, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Cetyl alcohol, Glycerin, Behenyl alcohol, Cetearyl olivate, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Bisabolol, Cetearyl alcohol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Sorbitan olivate, Glyceryl stearate, Stearyl alcohol, Dipropylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate se, Laminaria japonica extract, Eclipta prostrata leaf extract, Butylene glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cholesterol, Xanthan gum, Sodium hyaluronate, Adenosine, Fructooligosaccharides, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Ceramide np, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Beta-glucan, Disodium edta, Ficus carica fruit extract, Centella asiatica extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Curcuma longa root extract, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Corallina officinalis extract, Raffinose, Folic acid, Tocopherol, Retinal, Peg-5 rapeseed sterol, Silica, Brassica campestris sterols, Carnosine, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Tocopheryl acetate, Aluminum/magnesium hydroxide stearate, Caprylyl glycol, Sucrose distearate, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tromethamine, Camellia sinensis leaf water, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Disodium edta, Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

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Amazon UKPrice as of 11/1/2026 03:23 GMT
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
AHCYouth Focus CreamYOUR PRODUCTHSGNRetinally Liposomal Retinal CreamAbibYesStyle Exclusive PDRN Volume Fill-it Booster Crème 2.5 Tube Mini 5pcs Bundle SetTOSOWOONGCollagen Lifting Cream
Match—94%88%87%
Price$33.48$13.20−$20.28$37.53+$4.05$18.90−$14.58
Shared key ingredients—15 of 2310 of 2315 of 23
Key difference—Hexapeptide-9Copper Tripeptide-1Copper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy High Medium Medium High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 42 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
  3. 3
    Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
  4. 4
    Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxidesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
AHC Youth Focus Cream
AHCYouth Focus Cream
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