PRODUCT REVIEW
111SKIN Black Diamond Retinol Oil
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Price as of 11/5/2023 1:34 GMT.
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What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Black Diamond Retinol Oil
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Speeds up cell-turnover and promoting collagen production.While erasing lines, it shrinks open pores, and reduces acne scars.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
0.35% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An emollient that softens the skin
Show more
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Speeds up cell-turnover and promoting collagen production.While erasing lines, it shrinks open pores, and reduces acne scars.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
lactic acid
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Exfoliation
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
lactic acid
0.1% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Moisturizing
squalane
3.9% -
5.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
caprylic/capric triglyceride
5.6% -
8.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
cocos nucifera oil
0.4% -
0.95%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic
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Anti-oxidation
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
vitis vinifera seed oil
0.3% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
prunus amygdalus dulcis oil
0.35% -
0.85%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
An emollient that softens the skin
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
Buy now
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isopropyl myristate
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
glycine soja oil
0.9% -
1.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Show more
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.15% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinol
1.6% -
2.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Mattifying,
Anti-blemish
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
isopropyl myristate
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
glycine soja oil
0.9% -
1.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Show more
All ingredients
coco-caprylate/caprate
22% -
33%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
caprylic/capric triglyceride
5.6% -
8.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
isopropyl myristate
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Could be comedogenic
Show more
Ingredient list view
Coco-caprylate/caprate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Isopropyl myristate, Squalane, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinol, Diacetyl boldine, Tocopherol, Glycine soja oil, Ppg-26-buteth-26, Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Olea europaea fruit oil, Cocos nucifera oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Linum usitatissimum seed oil, Oryza sativa bran oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Water, Bht, Glycerin, Diamond powder, Xanthan gum, Sodium benzoate, Lactic acid, Potassium sorbate, Parfum
Sources
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Amended Safety Assessment of Butyl Polyoxyalkylene Ethers as Used in Cosmetics
- Amended Safety Assessment of PEGylated Oils as Used in Cosmetics
- Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oil
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Study on the Composition of Rice Bran Oil and Its Higher Free Fatty Acids Value
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid