Top Actives:

Anti-Aging

Here is the list of anti-aging actives with solid scientific evidence backing up their effectiveness. Remember, you don’t need to use all of them in your anti-aging skincare routine. Instead, choose one to three and be mindful of the risk of irritation. Start by selecting your desired active ingredients, then look for products that contain them. This way, you can make the best choices for your skin need and goals, as well as your budget.

Retinoids

Retinoids are highly effective and well-studied anti-aging ingredients. There are various types of retinoids:  some can only be found in prescription skincare, while others are available freely in cosmetic shops.

Note: this is not medical advice. Consult with a doctor for medical treatments.

Quick reference

Names on ingredient labels

  • Adapalalene
  • Tretinoin or all-trans retinoic acid
  • Retinol
  • Retinal
  • Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
  • Retinyl retinoate

Irritation risk

High

Effective concentration

  • Adapalene: 0.1%
  • Tretinoin: 0.025% – 0.05%
  • Retinol: 0.3%-1%
  • Retinal: 0.1%-1%
  • Hydroxypinacolone retinoate: 0.2%-0.7%
  • Retinyl retinoate: 0.1%-0.5%

If a product combines different types of retinoids, consider the total retinoid concentrations (e.g. retinol 0.2% + hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% is stronger than retinol 0.3%).

Frequency of use

Sensitive skin: start at 1x a week and gradually increase to every other day.

Not sensitive skin: start at 3x a week and gradually increase to once daily.  

Niacianamide

Vitamin B3. Has solid evidence for being effective for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone in topical skincare. In concentrations from 2%, niacinamide helps the skin to produce its own antioxidants that in turn fight photo-damage. Niacinamide rarely caused irritation. Most people can use it once or twice daily. Niacinamide can be included in a serum, moisturizer or any other product that stays on your skin (those you do not wash off like a cleanser).

Quick reference

Names on ingredient labels

Niacinamide

Irritation risk

Low

Effective concentration

2%-6%

Frequency of use

Once or twice daily

Ascorbic Acid – Vitamin C

It is the most potent and well-studied anti-oxidant in skincare. It fights photo-damage. It also helps to improve the skin tone and fade age spots. Ascorbic Acid is the only form of Vitamin C that really works  – at least, based on the available research. You need the concentration of 10% or higher to see the results. Ascorbic Acid in this concentration can be irritating. Ascorbic Acid is unstable and loses effectiveness on contact with air, light and high temperature. If your Ascorbic Acid changes its color and turned yellow / orange, it means that the Ascorbic Acid in it already lost some of its effectiveness. Use up products with Ascorbic Acid quickly after opening.

Quick reference

Names on ingredient labels

L-Ascorbic acid or ascorbic acid

Irritation risk

High

Effective concentration

10%-25%

Frequency of use

Up to once daily. Less frequently for sensitive skin

Bakuchiol

This active compound is extracted from a plant Babchi (but please don’t use the whole plant because it also can contain natural chemicals that can be harmful). It is a relatively new active in skincare. The first research shows that it works well for reducing all major signs of aging. It seems to be not very irritating, but you can have an individual sensitivity to it. Look for concentrations of at least 1% of Bakuchiol in products. It can be a serum or moisturizer. Bakuchiol can be combined with other actives in products, for example with retinoids.

Quick reference

Names on ingredient labels

Bakuchiol

Irritation risk

Medium

Effective concentration

1%-2%

Frequency of use

Once or twice daily

Peptides

There are many different peptides in skincare, and they can get confusing. On one hand, we have research that shows that they can work and deliver impressive skin results. On the other hand, there are hundred of different peptide ingredients in skincare products, and some of them can do little more than a simple moisturizer. Check our “Learn More” section to get more guidance.

Exfoliating Acids

Glycolic, mandelic, lactic acid (called AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids), lactobionic acid, gluconalactone (called PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids) can have an anti-aging effect. These acids help to shed the upper-most layer of the skin. This brings literally younger (or newer) skin to the surface. When used regularly for a long time (6 month +), these acids can also increase collagen production in skin. This helps to reduce wrinkles.

Quick reference

Names on ingredient labels

AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids:

  • Glycolic Acid
  • Lactic Acid
  • Mandelic Acid

PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids:

  • Lactobionic Acid
  • Gluconalactone

Irritation risk

Medium to high, depending on concentration/ PHAs are less irritating than AHAs.

Effective concentration

5%-20%

Frequency of use

1x or 2x a week. Low concentration products (2-3%) can be used daily. If a product combined different type of exfoliating acids, consider the total concentration.