Top Actives
Against Acne & Clogged Pores
Acne and clogged pores can be a frustrating and difficult skin concern to manage. While there are countless skincare products on the market that claim to clear up acne and unclog pores, many of them are not based on scientific evidence. However, there are several proven skincare actives that are used in medical treatments for acne and have solid evidence behind them. To build an effective skincare regimen for acne-prone skin, it’s best to combine 2-3 of these actives – while being mindful of potential skin irritation.
Retinoids
Retinoids can help you clear and prevent acne and clogged pores. The American Academy of Dermatology recognises retinoids as “the core of topical therapy for acne”. This comes from hundreds of high-quality clinical trials.
Note: this is not medical advice. Consult with a doctor for medical treatments.
Quick reference
Names on ingredient labels
- Adapalalene
- Tretinoin or all-trans retinoic acid
- Retinol
- Retinal
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
- Retinyl retinoate
Irritation risk
High
Effective concentration
- Adapalene: 0.1%
- Tretinoin: 0.025% – 0.05%
- Retinol: 0.3%-1%
- Retinal: 0.1%-1%
- Hydroxypinacolone retinoate: 0.2%-0.7%
- Retinyl retinoate: 0.1%-0.5%
If a product combines different types of retinoids, consider the total retinoid concentrations (e.g. retinol 0.2% + hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.1% is stronger than retinol 0.3%).
Frequency of use
Sensitive skin: start at 1x a week and gradually increase to every other day.
Not sensitive skin: start at 3x a week and gradually increase to once daily.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic Acid is present in our skin naturally. It is produced by normal skin’s microbiome. In skincare, it is an effective and gentle active that helps calm down inflammation, regulate sebum production in skin and help speed up the skin cell turnover. For clogged pores & acne, the ideal concentration is between 10% and 20%
Quick reference
Names on ingredient labels
- Azelaic acid
- Potassium azeloyl diglycinate
Irritation risk
Low
Effective concentration
10%-20%
Frequency of use
Once daily
Niacinamide
Niacinamide works for both reducing clogged pores and preventing inflamed blemishes. It helps to make the skin less oily (reduce sebum production). It rarely causes irritation and works well in the same routine with other anti-acne actives like retinoids and azelaic acid.
Quick reference
Names on ingredient labels
Niacinamide
Irritation risk
Low
Effective concentration
4%-6%
Frequency of use
Once or twice daily
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid (sometimes called BHA) is an exfoliating acid that can work inside skin pores. This is because it is oil-soluble (other exfoliating acids like AHAs and PHAs are not). In this way Salicylic Acid can improve the pore clarity. Salicylic Acid also helps reduce inflammation. It can be used as a spot treatment.
It is quite a strong exfoliator. Be careful not to overdo it: over-exfoliation can make your skin sensitive and more prone to inflammation. This can lead to more acne.
Quick reference
Names on ingredient labels
Salicylic acid
Irritation risk
High
Effective concentration
2%
Frequency of use
2-3 times a week and as a spot treatment
Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide is effective against inflamed spots. It is not helpful for clogged pores. It works against acne through deactivating acne-triggering bacteria inside the pores. The downside is that it is doing it by generating free radicals and this isn’t good for skin in the long-term. Benzoyl peroxide is often irritating and leads to skin dryness. Concentrations between 2.5% and 10% are used to treat acne. The higher the concentration, the greater the irritation risk. It is not clear if the concentrations higher than 2.5% are more effective against acne. It is best to use benzoyl peroxide for a short time, when you are dealing with active inflamed blemishes. Other anti-acne actives like Retinoids are better for managing & preventing acne long-term.
Benzoyl peroxide (BP) can be used together with other anti-acne actives in a routine, but it is best not to combine it with other actives in one skincare step. For example, if you use BP and retinoids, apply BP in the AM and the retinoid product in the PM. Especially avoid using products with BP in the same step with anti-oxidants including azelaic acid and vitamin C.
Quick reference
Names on ingredient labels
Benzoyl peroxide
Irritation risk
High
Effective concentration
1.5%-2.5%
Frequency of use
Up to 1x daily and as a spot treatment 2-3 times a day. If your skin is sensitive, use less frequently
Bakuchiol
Bkauchiol is not used in medical treatment for acne, but first studies show that it can be effective. It may be the only substance after retinoids that is known to be effective against multiple causes of acne. It can stop acne-causing bacteria, calm down skin inflammation, reduce the amount of oil on the skin, and prevent pores from getting clogged. Bakuchiol is best in oils, oily serums, creams, or lotions (it is oil-soluble). A good product with bakuchiol should also be slightly acidic (pH less than 6.5). Bakuchiol is stable in sunlight, so you can use it at any time of the day. Bakuchiol has a low risk of causing irritation, which makes it a good active to use on alternative days with retinoids or can be a good substitute to retinoids altogether for people who can’t tolerate them (or want to avoid them because of pregnancy).
Quick reference
Names on ingredient labels
Bakuchiol
Irritation risk
Medium
Effective concentration
1%-2%
Frequency of use
Once or twice daily