Thiamidol

This ingredient was discovered and is patented by Beiersdorf, the parent company of skincare brands Eucerin and Nivea. It is the newest available anti-pigmentation active with solid research on its efficacy. While more studies are still needed, it appears to be one of the most potent anti-pigment actives (tyrosinase inhibitors) among ingredients available in cosmetic skincare today. The research available shows that Thiamidol is as effective as hydroquinone, but is safer (side effects from hydroquinone can be significant and we do not recommend using it without a doctor’s supervision). Thiamidol can be used 1x or even multiple times daily (up to 4). It seems to be usually well tolerated, but irritation from it is still possible. It can be combined in the same routine with vitamin C (ascorbic acid).

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Niacinamide

Vitamin B3. It is one of the safest potent anti-pigment actives: it very rarely leads to irritation. On the contrary, in addition to reducing pigmentation, it strengthens the skin barrier and has an anti-aging and anti-acne benefit.

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Retinoids

Retinoids work against unwanted pigmentation in the two main ways:

1. They suppress the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase that kicks off the production of melanin (the skin pigment).
2. They increase the cell turnover and this results in lighter skin getting to the surface.

If you are dealing with post-acne pigmentation, retinoids are particularly great actives. They work both against the active acne spots, prevent the new ones, and treat post-acne marks at the same time.

To see results, you’ll need to use a retinoid product regularly a few times a week up to daily for a couple of months.

Note: this is not medical advice. Consult with a doctor for medical treatments.

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Azelaic Acid

Azelaic Acid is present in our skin naturally. It is produced by normal skin’s microbiome. It has both an anti-pigmentation and anti-inflammatory effect. This makes it a great active for helping with melasma, as well as treating acne and pigmentation at the same time. It is also used for treating rosacea.

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Ascorbic Acid – Vitamin C

Vitamin C, or Ascorbic Acid, is one of the most powerful antioxidants in skincare. It’s been extensively studied and proven to be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation and have anti-aging benefits. However, it’s important to use a concentration of at least 10% to see results, which can be irritating to some skin types. Be cautious when adding it to your skincare routine, especially if you’re using other anti-pigmentation actives like Retinoids, Thiamidol, Arbutin, or Kojic Acid. You can use a Vitamin C serum in the morning or at night, and adjust the frequency of use according to your skin’s sensitivity. Keep in mind that Ascorbic Acid is unstable and loses its effectiveness when exposed to air, light, and high temperatures. If the color of your Vitamin C product changes to yellow or orange, it’s a sign that the Ascorbic Acid in it has already lost some of its effectiveness. Use products with Ascorbic Acid quickly after opening.

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Arbutin – Alpha-Arbutin

It is a safer relative of hydroquinone. It is a synthetic ingredient. Sometimes it is called alpha-Arbutin to differentiate it from the natural form of Arbutin (beta-Arbutin) which is less effective against pigmentation.

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Exfoliating Acids

Glycolic, mandelic, lactic acid (called AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids), lactobionic acid, gluconalactone (called PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids) can help speed up fading of the pigmentation spots. These acids remove the surface layer of the skin cells. This way skin gets to shed the cells with bigger melanin deposits faster.

Exfoliating acids have a major side effect. They thin the upper layer of the skin, and it can make the skin reactive. It can get irritated easier. Skin irritation can trigger more pigmentation, so you definitely want to avoid it.

People whose skin isn’t sensitive can usually use an exfoliant with 10-15% of total concentration of exfoliating acids 1-2 times a week. The more other potentially irritating active you use in a routine, the less frequently you should exfoliate. The lower the concentration of the acids is, the smaller is the risk of irritation.

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