Anti-aging

Damage from the sunlight causes 80% of skin aging. The main anti-aging skincare strategy is:

1. Sun protection - a daily sunscreen that protects both from the UVA & UVB.
2. Repair existing sun damage. Actives like Retinoids, Vitamin C, Niacinamide and others help with this.

Learn more about anti-aging skincare in our guide here.

Top anti-aging actives

Ingredients to look for in skincare products to help with fine lines & wrinkles, elasticity loss & age spots. You do not need to use all anti-aging actives in your routine. Sunscreen is a must, but then you can include 2-3 other anti-aging actives and get good results. Do not go overboard with your actives: you want to avoid skin irritation (irritation contributes to skin aging and can undo the benefit from the actives).

UV filters & sunscreens

It is important that your sunscreen includes a combination of UV filters that together protect from both UVB ("burning") and less noticeable UVA rays. The minimum recommended SPF is 30.

Retinoids

The most proven topical actives for anti-aging after sunscreens. You'll need to use a retinoid product regularly a few times a week up to daily for a couple of months to see results. Skin irritation is a very common side-effect of retinoids. If your skin is sensitive, use a product with retinoid only 1-2 times a week, especially when you are just starting. With time, you might be able to increase the frequency. Read our Retinoids for Anti-Aging Guide to learn more.

Niacinamide

Vitamin B3. In concentrations from 2%, Niacinamide helps the skin to produce its own antioxidants that in turn fight photo-damage. Niacinamide rarely caused irritation. Most people can use it once or twice daily. Niacinamide can be included in a serum, moisturizer or any other product that stays on your skin (they you do not wash off like a cleanser).

Ascorbic Acid

Vitamin C. It is the most potent and well-studied anti-oxidant in skincare. It fights photo-damage. It also helps to improve the skin tone and fade age spots. Ascorbic Acid is the only form of Vitamin C that really works (at least, based on the available research). You need the concentration of 10% or higher to see the results. Ascorbic Acid in this concentration can be irritating. Be mindful of this risk when adding it to your routine, especially if you are also using a Retinoid and /or Exfoliating Acids (AHAs, PHAs or BHA / Salicylic Acid). You can use a serum with Ascorbic Acid in the AM or PM; every day or less frequently if your skin is sensitive. Ascorbic Acid is unstable and loses effectiveness on contact with air, light and high temperature. If your Ascorbic Acid changes its color and turned yellow / orange, it means that the Ascorbic Acid in it already lost some of its effectiveness. Use up products with Ascorbic Acid quickly after opening.

Bakuchiol

This active compound is extracted from a plant Babchi (but please don't use the whole plant because it also can contain natural chemicals that can be harmful). It is a relatively new active in skincare. The first research shows that it works well for reducing all major signs of aging. It seems to be not very irritating, but you can have an individual sensitivity to it. Look for concentrations of at least 1% of Bakuchiol in products. It can be a serum or moisturizer. Bakuchiol can be combined with other actives in products, for example with Retinoids.

Peptides

This is a large group of actives. They all consist of a different combinations of aminoacids. Preliminary research shows that Peptides can help reduce signs of skin aging. But there is no definite proof yet the Peptides bring meaningful results in practice. The good news is that Peptides definitely help support the skin barrier and they almost never cause irritation. There is no harm or trade-offs for adding them to your routine. You can use a moisturizer or serum with Peptides daily or even multiple times a day.

Exfoliating Acids

Glycolic, mandelic, lactic acid (called AHAs, or alpha-hydroxy acids), lactobionic acid, gluconalactone (called PHAs, or polyhydroxy acids) can also have an anti-aging effect. These acids help to shed the upper-most layer of the skin. This brings literally younger (or newer) skin to the surface. When used regularly for a long time (6 month +), these acids can also increase collagen production in skin. This helps to reduce wrinkles.

Exfoliating acids have a major side effect. They thin the upper layer of the skin, and it can make the skin reactive. It can get irritated easier. Skin irritation contributes to aging, so you definitely want to avoid it.

People whose skin isn't sensitive can usually use an exfoliant with 10-15% of total concentration of exfoliating acids 1-2 times a week. The more other potentially irritating active you use in a routine, the less frequently you should exfoliate. The lower the concentration of the acids is, the smaller is the risk of irritation.

Adenosine

This compound might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles a little: for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead. Small concentrations of Adenosine (0.01%) can be effective. Adenosine can be included in a moisturizer or serum.

Example anti-aging routines

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