Zelens Emulsion D - Fortifying Moisturiser

Zelens Emulsion D - Fortifying Moisturiser

Efficacy100/100IrritancyMedium

Works for

Moisturizing
Linoleic acid, Ceramide ns + 26 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Product name: Emulsion D - Fortifying Moisturiser”
Source: Zelens

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, trehalose.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, cholesterol.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ns, linoleic acid

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~1.2–1.5%
Ceramide nsHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.55–0.85%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.5–5.5%
Coco-caprylate/caprateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture~3.1–3.8%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2–2.5%
Panthenyl triacetateKey activeEffect: HighA stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin~1.6–1.9%
Ethyl linoleateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~1.5–1.8%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~1.2–1.5%
Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~1–1.2%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.5–0.75%
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharideKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Glycine soja sterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.45–0.65%
7-dehydrocholesterolKey activeEffect: HighPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis~0.45–0.65%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.6%
LactobacillusKey activeEffect: HighA non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation~0.25–0.5%
OrnithineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrateKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.5%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~4.3–5.2%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.4–2.9%
Oleic acid· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness~0.65–1%
Polymnia sonchifolia root juiceEffect: LowA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.55%
Palmitic acid· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it~0.3–0.6%
Myristyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Octyldodecanol· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation~0.15–0.3%
Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.55–0.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · Ethyl linoleate, Linoleic acid
May help

This product might be able to help reduce blemishes and clogged pores because it contains ethyl linoleate.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid

Ethyl linoleateKey activeEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~1.5–1.8%
Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~1.2–1.5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Perilla frutescens leaf extract
Medium risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Perilla frutescens leaf extractUsed as a fragrance for its mint-like smellHigh~0.35–0.6%est.
Polymnia sonchifolia root juiceA plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
P-anisic acidHelps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Myristyl alcoholHelps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Oleyl alcoholUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Ethyl linoleateHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~1–1.2%est.
Oleic acidHelps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin drynessMedium~0.65–1%est.
7-dehydrocholesterolPro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasisMedium~0.45–0.65%est.
Sodium dehydroacetateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Levulinic acidHelps stabilize a product formulationMedium~0.25–0.4%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Oleyl alcoholUsed as a fragrance3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.5–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Behenyl alcohol~4.3–5.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Coco-caprylate/caprate~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture

More about Coco-caprylate/caprate
Glyceryl stearate~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Dimethicone~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Panthenyl triacetate~1.6–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A stable oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B5. It can help support skin barrier and reduce inflammation in skin

More about Panthenyl triacetate
Ethyl linoleate~1.5–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking

More about Ethyl linoleate
Trehalose~1.2–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Linoleic acid~1.2–1.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Linolenic acid~1–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid
Oleic acid~0.65–1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness

More about Oleic acid
Ceramide ns~0.55–0.85%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ns
Phospholipids~0.5–0.75%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Methyl cyclodextrin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Methyl cyclodextrin
7-dehydrocholesterol~0.45–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Pro-vitamin D. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory effect in skin, but there is no research available confirming that this compound converts to vitamin D in skin or has any other benefits apart from softening the upper layer of the skin. This compound is different from the Vitamin D3 analogues used in medicine to treat psoriasis

More about 7-dehydrocholesterol
Glycolipids~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glycolipids
Glycine soja sterols~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Glycine soja sterols
Perilla frutescens leaf extract~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Used as a fragrance for its mint-like smell

More about Perilla frutescens leaf extract
Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide
Polymnia sonchifolia root juice~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Polymnia sonchifolia root juice
Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Propanediol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Ornithine~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino-acid. Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Ornithine
Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate
Cholesterol~0.3–0.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Lactobacillus~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation

More about Lactobacillus
Palmitic acid~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it

More about Palmitic acid
Stearic acid~0.55–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid
Lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Inulin lauryl carbamate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Inulin lauryl carbamate
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Benzyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Carbomer~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Sodium dehydroacetate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium dehydroacetate
Lauryl alcohol~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Lauryl alcohol
Levulinic acid~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps stabilize a product formulation

More about Levulinic acid
P-anisic acid~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Helps preserve products. Can mask unpleasant smell. Could be irritating

More about P-anisic acid
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Myristyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to stabilize the product formulation while softening the upper layer of the skin. Can be irritating

More about Myristyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Oleyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Comedogenicity
3/5

Used as a fragrance

More about Oleyl alcohol
Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Octyldodecanol~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps to soften the skin and create a pleasant product texture and stabilize the formulation

More about Octyldodecanol
Maltodextrin~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Mattifying

Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil

More about Maltodextrin
Citric acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Behenyl alcohol, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Glyceryl stearate, Dimethicone, Panthenyl triacetate, Ethyl linoleate, Trehalose, Linoleic acid, Linolenic acid, Oleic acid, Ceramide ns, Phospholipids, Methyl cyclodextrin, 7-dehydrocholesterol, Glycolipids, Glycine soja sterols, Perilla frutescens leaf extract, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Polymnia sonchifolia root juice, Tocopherol, Propanediol, Ornithine, Saccharomyces ferment lysate filtrate, Cholesterol, Lactobacillus, Palmitic acid, Stearic acid, Lecithin, Inulin lauryl carbamate, Hydrogenated lecithin, Benzyl alcohol, Carbomer, Sodium dehydroacetate, Lauryl alcohol, Levulinic acid, P-anisic acid, Sodium hydroxide, Myristyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Oleyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid, Octyldodecanol, Maltodextrin, Citric acid, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
ZelensEmulsion D - Fortifying MoisturiserYOUR PRODUCTDr. Diamond's MetacineHYDR/O Bioactive Hydrolipid Barrier MoisturizerMedik8ADVANCED PRO COLLAGEN+ PEPTIDE CREAMPrequelAM/PM Modern Moisturizer
Match—53%47%47%
Price—$300.00$98.82$17.99
Shared key ingredients—5 of 165 of 165 of 16
Key difference—NiacinamideOligopeptide-1Ceramide Np
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Zelens - Emulsion D - Fortifying Moisturiser" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Humectants in this product (glycerin and trehalose) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide ns, linoleic acid, cholesterol, ethyl linoleate and glycine soja sterols) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide ns 0.55% - 0.85%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
  • Another helpful ingredient in this moisturizer is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lecithin, vitamin e and stearic acid

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 29.00$ up to 82.80$ in the United States, from 21.00£ up to 65.00£ in the United Kingdom and from 36.80CA$ up to 105.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
Zelens Emulsion D - Fortifying Moisturiser
ZelensEmulsion D - Fortifying Moisturiser

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.