Yon-Ka Paris

Yon-Ka Paris Vital Defense

Name: Yon-Ka Paris - Vital Defense
Brand: Yon-Ka Paris

Efficacy58/100IrritancyHigh

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Urea, Glycerin + 14 more

Works well

What the product description says

“The intensely hydrating Vital Defense cream contains high-performance plant extracts that help the skin preserve its youthfulness.”

Source: Lookfantastic US

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, dextrin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~2.5–3%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~5.6–6.8%

Myristyl myristateKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic~3.4–4.2%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~1.4–1.7%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.65%

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~0.35–0.6%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~0.3–0.55%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

UbiquinoneKey activeEffect: HighCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.3%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~4.8–5.8%

Isodecyl neopentanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowAn emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.~1.8–2.2%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~1–1.3%

Moringa pterygosperma seed extractEffect: LowMight help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.65–1%

Anti-aging

Serine, Ubiquinone + 3 more

May help

What the product description says

“Helps to prevent the premature signs of aging.”

Source: Lookfantastic US

This product contains serine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.4–0.65%

UbiquinoneEffect: LowCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.3%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.25–0.5%

Retinyl palmitateUnder-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.4%

Evens skin tone

Lactic acid ~0.65–1% + 2 more

Under-dosed

What the product description says

“Even out your skin tone with Yonka Paris Vital Defense.”

Source: SkincareRX

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low

Anti-oxidation

Side benefit · Ubiquinone, Myrtus communis leaf extract + 2 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Myrtus communis leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties~0.3–0.5%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.0.21%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

10 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Santalum album extract + 8 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.65%est.

Santalum album extractUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.4–0.6%est.

Myrtus communis leaf extractA plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant propertiesHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Michelia alba leaf oilAn essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Citrus nobilis peel oilA plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.1%est.

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenicMedium~3.4–4.2%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.65–1%est.

Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.5–0.8%est.

Phellodendron amurense bark extractA plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effectMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium0.21%

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.25–0.5%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.

Comedogenic

1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

1 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Myristyl myristateAn emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic3/5~3.4–4.2%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~5.6–6.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Isononyl isononanoate~4.8–5.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Myristyl myristate~3.4–4.2%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic

More about Myristyl myristate

Urea~2.5–3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

Hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters~2.1–2.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters

Isodecyl neopentanoate~1.8–2.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin. It also forms a protective on its surface to reduce water loss.

More about Isodecyl neopentanoate

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~1.5–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Cetyl alcohol~1.4–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Glyceryl stearate~1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Lactic acid~0.65–1%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Polymethyl methacrylate~0.65–0.95%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Is used to enhance product texture and can help to optically mask skin imperfections

More about Polymethyl methacrylate

Peg-75 stearate~0.5–0.8%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Peg-75 stearate

Hordeum distichon extract~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hordeum distichon extract

Serine~0.4–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.4–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil

Phellodendron amurense bark extract~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have an anti-inflammatory effect

More about Phellodendron amurense bark extract

Santalum album extract~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album extract

Myrtus communis leaf extract~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that contains an essential oil and often used for its fragrance. Can be irritating. It has some anti-bacterial and anti-oxidant properties

More about Myrtus communis leaf extract

Moringa pterygosperma seed extract~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Moringa pterygosperma seed extract

Squalane~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane

Ceteth-20~0.45–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20

Steareth-20~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20

Tocopheryl acetate0.21%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate

Michelia alba leaf oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An essential oil used in cosmetics for its smell. Can be irritating

More about Michelia alba leaf oil

Citrus nobilis peel oil~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with high content of volatile compounds that, especially when exposed to air, can cause allergic reactions and irritate the skin

More about Citrus nobilis peel oil

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Dimethicone~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Parfum~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Dextrin~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Sodium benzoate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Sodium hydroxide~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide

Ubiquinone~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen

More about Ubiquinone

Limonene~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene

Linalool~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool

Citral~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Isononyl isononanoate, Myristyl myristate, Urea, Hydrogenated olive oil myristyl esters, Isodecyl neopentanoate, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Cetyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Lactic acid, Polymethyl methacrylate, Peg-75 stearate, Hordeum distichon extract, Serine, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Phellodendron amurense bark extract, Santalum album extract, Myrtus communis leaf extract, Moringa pterygosperma seed extract, Squalane, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Retinyl palmitate, Michelia alba leaf oil, Citrus nobilis peel oil, Phenoxyethanol, Dimethicone, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, Dextrin, Sodium benzoate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Sodium hydroxide, Ubiquinone, Limonene, Linalool, Citral

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Yon-Ka ParisVital DefenseYOUR PRODUCT	endota spaNew Age Advanced Hydration Cream	Elizabeth GrantHydra Cell Active Ultimate Hydration Face Cream	Perricone MDTreatments Neuropeptide Night Cream
Match	—	53%	51%	50%
Price	—	$52.67	—	—
Shared key ingredients	—	6 of 10	6 of 10	4 of 10
Key difference	—	Butyrospermum Parkii Butter	Panthenol	Dipeptide-2
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"Yon-Ka Paris Skincare - Vital Defense" is effective for: Moisturizing

This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging and Evens skin tone, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.

Ingredient callouts

this product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.20% - 0.40%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
Humectants (urea 2.50% - 3.00% and glycerin 5.60% - 6.80%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.