VARI:HOPE True AC Tea Tree Intensive Night Cream

VARI:HOPE True AC Tea Tree Intensive Night Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Madecassoside + 20 more
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Soft creamy texture gently wraps and moisturizes skin with rich moisture and comforts.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: madecassoside, panthenol

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1–1.2%
PolymethylsilsesquioxaneKey activeEffect: HighA silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss~0.3–0.55%
Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.6%
Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.3%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.25%
Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
MadecassosideHeroEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~4.5–5.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.6–0.9%
CyclopentasiloxaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin~1.5–1.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~5–6.1%
Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.7–1%
Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency~0.45–0.7%
Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~1.2–1.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2–2.4%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~2.3–2.8%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–0.75%
PetrolatumUnder-dosedEffect: HighOne of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss~0.5–0.75%
Betula alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseHas astringent properties. Creates a tightening and drying effect on the skin. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Retinol, Beta-glucan
Strong evidence
What the product description says
“Offers intensive acne care for irritated skin during sleep to restoring healthy, clear skin.”
Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.45%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Asiaticoside, Retinol + 6 more
Strong evidence

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside, retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.25%
RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.45%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: HighAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–0.75%
Betula alba bark extractEffect: Low, below effective doseHas astringent properties. Creates a tightening and drying effect on the skin. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.35–0.65%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Asiaticoside + 4 more
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, madecassoside.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.45%
AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.15–0.25%
MadecassosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%
Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.5–0.75%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol
Strong evidence

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · Retinol, Madecassoside
Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.25–0.45%
MadecassosideEffect: LowAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Retinol, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oilAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
Betula alba bark extractHas astringent properties. Creates a tightening and drying effect on the skin. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Hamamelis virginiana extractA plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~4.5–5.5%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.7–2.1%est.
HydroxyacetophenoneUsed to increase effectiveness of preservativesMedium~0.5–0.75%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.35–0.65%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium metabisulfiteA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.
BhtA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
BhaHelps preserve the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
MadecassosideAn antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulationsMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.5–0.75%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~5–6.1%est.
Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.7–1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Cetearyl alcohol~5–6.1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~4.5–5.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate~3.2–3.9%
Formula
Hydrogenated polydecene~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Butylene glycol~2–2.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Polysorbate 60~1.7–2.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Cyclopentasiloxane~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin

More about Cyclopentasiloxane
Cyclohexasiloxane~1.2–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane
Dimethicone~1–1.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Glyceryl stearate se~0.7–1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se
Glycerin~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Hydroxyacetophenone~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to increase effectiveness of preservatives

More about Hydroxyacetophenone
Petrolatum~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the most effective and the most studied occlusive ingredients that creates a protective layer on top of the skin preventing moisture loss

More about Petrolatum
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.5–0.75%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency

More about Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate
Lecithin~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Tocopheryl acetate~0.35–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Panthenol~0.3–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Ethylhexyl salicylate~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Octisalate. A UV filter. It offers some protection against the sun rays that cause sunburn (UVB), but does not protect against the most aging sun rays (UVA). It loses its effectiveness quickly when exposed to sunlight. It is an organic, or so called "chemical" sunscreen

More about Ethylhexyl salicylate
Polysorbate 20~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Carbomer~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Potassium hydroxide~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Retinol~0.25–0.45%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidationExfoliationMattifyingAnti-blemishEvens skin tone

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Polymethylsilsesquioxane~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A silicone that improves product texture and helps dissolve other ingredients. Can form a non-greasy film on the skin to prevent moisture loss

More about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

An essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial properties

More about Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil
Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium metabisulfite~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Sodium metabisulfite
Phaseolus radiatus seed extract~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Beta-glucan~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan
Bht~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Bht
Bha~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps preserve the product formulation

More about Bha
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Betula alba bark extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Has astringent properties. Creates a tightening and drying effect on the skin. Can be irritating

More about Betula alba bark extract
Hamamelis virginiana extract~0.25–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

A plant extract that can help calm down inflammation in skin. Can, however, itself be irritating

More about Hamamelis virginiana extract
Rumex crispus root extract~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Madecassoside~0.2–0.35%
Hero · MoisturizingIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin tone

An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations

More about Madecassoside
Asiaticoside~0.15–0.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside
Asiatic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid
Madecassic acid~0.15–0.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid
1,2-hexanediol~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Ingredient list view

Water, Cetearyl alcohol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, Hydrogenated polydecene, Butylene glycol, Polysorbate 60, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl stearate se, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Petrolatum, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate, Lecithin, Tocopheryl acetate, Panthenol, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Potassium hydroxide, Retinol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydrogenated lecithin, Melaleuca alternifolia leaf oil, Disodium edta, Sodium metabisulfite, Phaseolus radiatus seed extract, Beta-glucan, Bht, Bha, Tocopherol, Betula alba bark extract, Hamamelis virginiana extract, Rumex crispus root extract, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Asiatic acid, Madecassic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
VARI:HOPETrue AC Tea Tree Intensive Night CreamYOUR PRODUCTinnisfreeRetinol Cica Barrier Defense CreamCentellian24Madeca Cream Time ReverseSUNGBOON EDITORCentell Lacto Skin Barrier Relaxing Cream
Match—89%85%77%
Price$28.00$4.88−$23.12$12.36−$15.64$24.00−$4.00
Shared key ingredients—10 of 169 of 1610 of 16
Key difference—NiacinamideNiacinamideNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium High High
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"VARI: HOPE - True AC Tea Tree Intensive Night Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Panthenol, glycerin and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.25% - 0.45%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.
  • Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - madecassic acid 0.15% - 0.30%, asiatic acid 0.15% - 0.30%, asiaticoside 0.15% - 0.25% and madecassoside 0.20% - 0.35% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, lecithin, butyrospermum parkii butter and petrolatum

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 28.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 35 studies and safety reviews.

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VARI:HOPE True AC Tea Tree Intensive Night Cream
VARI:HOPETrue AC Tea Tree Intensive Night Cream

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