The Labatorian

The Labatorian Oceans Beyond Moisturizer

Name: The Labatorian - Oceans Beyond Moisturizer
Brand: The Labatorian

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

4 of 4 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

19 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, asiaticoside, aspartic acid, centella asiatica leaf extract, ferulic acid, resveratrol, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.6–5.6%

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.9–2.3%

Centella asiatica leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.3–0.55%

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.3–0.6%

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Aspartic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl esterKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: MediumA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.3–0.55%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.25–0.5%

Lactococcus ferment lysateEffect: LowConsists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.3–0.55%

Beta-glucanEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Malachite extractEffect: LowA mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing~0.35–0.6%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.65%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.55%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.3–0.55%

Moisturizing

62 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Oceans Beyond Moisturizer”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, chondrus crispus extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, acetyl glucosamine, ceramide ap, ceramide as, ceramide eop, ceramide ng, ceramide np, niacinamide, phytosphingosine, urea

EctoinKey activeEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.5–0.75%

Lactococcus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: HighConsists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.3–0.55%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.6–1.9%

Ceramide apHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Ceramide asHeroEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%

Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.6%

Ceramide ngHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.6%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.35–0.65%

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.4–0.6%

Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.3–0.6%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.4–2.9%

Glyceryl glucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighCan help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer~0.65–1%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%

HistidineKey active· HumectantEffect: High~0.3–0.55%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin~0.3–0.5%

Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronateKey activeEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.4–1.7%

Imperata cylindrica root extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.55%

InulinKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.3–0.55%

IsoleucineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.3–0.55%

Linolenic acidKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation~0.4–0.65%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.6–5.6%

PcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.55%

PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.35–0.65%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Sodium acetylated hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.5%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAttracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.3–0.55%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.3–0.55%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.55%

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl esterHeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.45–0.65%

Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.9–2.3%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.3–0.55%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.3–0.55%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.3–0.55%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.25–0.5%

Aspartic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

Beta-glucanKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.3–0.55%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.3–0.6%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%

Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.2–1.4%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.95–1.15%

Isononyl isononanoate· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowForms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness~4.2–5.2%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.3–0.5%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.6%

Peg-8· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product consistency~0.3–0.6%

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%

Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.65%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.55–0.8%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.5%

Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.45–0.7%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.55%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.3–0.55%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.3–0.55%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%

Evens skin tone

9 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine, hydroxyethyl urea, niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine, ferulic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, resveratrol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.3–0.5%

ResveratrolEffect: LowHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.3–0.6%

AlanineEffect: LowAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.3–0.55%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.3–0.55%

Anti-blemish

11 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Centella asiatica leaf extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.~0.3–0.55%

PhytosphingosineEffect: LowA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.35–0.65%

Salix alba bark extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect~0.35–0.65%

InulinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking~0.3–0.55%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.3–0.5%

Linoleic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.45–0.7%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.5%

Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.4–0.65%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~1.4–1.7%

UreaKey activeEffect: MediumNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.3–0.55%

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: MediumAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.9–2.3%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.3–0.5%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 15 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, ferulic acid, resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - imperata cylindrica root extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

ResveratrolKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.3–0.6%

Ferulic acidKey activeEffect: HighA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.3–0.55%

Imperata cylindrica root extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.55%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.3–0.5%

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties~0.3–0.5%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.55%

Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.6%

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.3–0.5%

Polygonum cuspidatum root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the product~0.3–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

1 strong irritant: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 29 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Salix alba bark extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effectHigh~0.35–0.65%est.

Scutellaria baicalensis root extractA plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant propertiesHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.5%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.45–0.65%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.55–0.8%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 caprateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.4–0.6%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Imperata cylindrica root extractA plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layerMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.4–0.65%est.

Polygonum cuspidatum root extractA plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the productMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Peg-8Used to create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Centella asiatica leaf extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.3–0.55%est.

Linolenic acidAn emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammationMedium~0.4–0.65%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.35–0.6%est.

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymerAttracts water into the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.

Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

2 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

2 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.3–0.6%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Niacinamide~4.6–5.6%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Isononyl isononanoate~4.2–5.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Forms a protective film on the surface of the skin to prevent moisture loss. Gives a velvety feel to products while reducing tackiness

More about Isononyl isononanoate

Sodium polyacrylate~3.2–3.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Mattifying

Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions

More about Sodium polyacrylate

Glycerin~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Acetyl glucosamine~1.9–2.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine

Betaine~1.6–1.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Hydroxyethyl urea~1.4–1.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea

Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.2–1.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate

Butylene glycol~0.95–1.15%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glyceryl glucoside~0.65–1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer

More about Glyceryl glucoside

Cetearyl olivate~0.6–0.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Sorbitan olivate~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Ectoin~0.5–0.75%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Ectoin

Triethylhexanoin~0.45–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.55–0.8%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Propanediol~0.5–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester~0.45–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester

Salix alba bark extract~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidationAnti-blemishExfoliation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect

More about Salix alba bark extract

Polyglyceryl-3 caprate~0.4–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 caprate

Malachite extract~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-aging

A mineral that is claimed to be able to support collagen product in skin, but evidence of effectiveness is missing

More about Malachite extract

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.35–0.6%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract

Lactococcus ferment lysate~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Lactococcus ferment lysate

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin

Linoleic acid~0.45–0.7%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid

Disodium edta~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta

Inulin~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemish

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is claimed to support the growth of "good" bacteria in skin (as a "prebiotic"), but the research is lacking

More about Inulin

Allantoin~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Imperata cylindrica root extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plat extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin and attract water to its upper layer

More about Imperata cylindrica root extract

1,2-hexanediol~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Laminaria digitata extract~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Sodium pca~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Sodium lactate~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Centella asiatica extract~0.4–0.65%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract

Polygonum cuspidatum root extract~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain resveratrol, an antioxidant that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. The effectiveness depends on the extract quality and concentration in the product

More about Polygonum cuspidatum root extract

Scutellaria baicalensis root extract~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

AntibacterialAnti-oxidationMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might contain a compound baicalin that could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals and reducing inflammation in skin. The baicalin concentration in skincare products is often too low for an effective action. Can be used for its fragrant properties

More about Scutellaria baicalensis root extract

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.3–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Chamomilla recutita flower extract~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract

Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.5%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract

Laureth-3~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

More about Laureth-3

Hydroxyethylcellulose~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to thicken product formulations and create gel-like textures

More about Hydroxyethylcellulose

Arginine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ferulic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-aging

A potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%

More about Ferulic acid

Resveratrol~0.3–0.6%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone

More about Resveratrol

Aspartic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles

More about Aspartic acid

Tocopherol~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Hydrogenated lecithin~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin

Peg-8~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product consistency

More about Peg-8

Pca~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Pca

Asiaticoside~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationReduces irritationAnti-aging

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Madecassic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Asiatic acid~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizing

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate

Xanthan gum~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Hexacarboxymethyl dipeptide-12~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hexacarboxymethyl dipeptide-12

Carbomer~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Glycine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Alanine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Ceramide np~0.35–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Ceramide ap~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ap

Ceramide eop~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide eop

Cholesterol~0.4–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Lecithin~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Centella asiatica leaf extract~0.3–0.55%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-agingAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.

More about Centella asiatica leaf extract

Lactic acid~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

ExfoliationEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Serine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Valine~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Valine

Phytosphingosine~0.35–0.65%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine

Linolenic acid~0.4–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingCleansingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

An emollient that helps soften the skin and calm down inflammation

More about Linolenic acid

Beta-glucan~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Beta-glucan

Cetyl-pg hydroxyethyl palmitamide~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Cetyl-pg hydroxyethyl palmitamide

Ceramide ng~0.35–0.6%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide ng

Ceramide as~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

More about Ceramide as

Caprylyl glycol~0.35–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Proline~0.3–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Threonine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine

Isoleucine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function

More about Isoleucine

Sodium chloride~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures

More about Sodium chloride

Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric

Not recognized

Urea~0.3–0.55%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea

E acetate

Not recognized

Histidine~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Histidine

Phenylalanine~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Phenylalanine

Menaquinone-7~0.55–0.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Menaquinone-7

Sodium dna~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium dna

Magnesium chloride~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride

Glucose~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Sodium hyaluronate~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Chondrus crispus extract~0.3–0.6%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract

Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin

More about Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid

Sodium acetylated hyaluronate~0.3–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of hyaluronic acid that works as an excellent moisturizer by attracting water into the upper layer of the skin. Is typically feels less sticky on the skin compared to the usual hyaluronic acid

More about Sodium acetylated hyaluronate

Hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Centella asiatica leaf~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Centella asiatica leaf

Vesicles

Not recognized

Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer

Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate

Potassium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Potassium hyaluronate

Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Chlorphenesin~0.1–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Potassium sorbate~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate

Ingredient list view

Water, Niacinamide, Isononyl isononanoate, Sodium polyacrylate, Glycerin, Acetyl glucosamine, Betaine, Hydroxyethyl urea, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl glucoside, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Ectoin, Triethylhexanoin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Propanediol, Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, Salix alba bark extract, Polyglyceryl-3 caprate, Malachite extract, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Lactococcus ferment lysate, Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Linoleic acid, Disodium edta, Inulin, Allantoin, Imperata cylindrica root extract, 1,2-hexanediol, Laminaria digitata extract, Sodium pca, Sodium lactate, Centella asiatica extract, Polygonum cuspidatum root extract, Scutellaria baicalensis root extract, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Laureth-3, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Arginine, Ferulic acid, Resveratrol, Aspartic acid, Tocopherol, Hydrogenated lecithin, Peg-8, Pca, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Xanthan gum, Hexacarboxymethyl dipeptide-12, Carbomer, Glycine, Alanine, Ceramide np, Ceramide ap, Ceramide eop, Cholesterol, Lecithin, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Lactic acid, Serine, Valine, Phytosphingosine, Linolenic acid, Beta-glucan, Cetyl-pg hydroxyethyl palmitamide, Ceramide ng, Ceramide as, Caprylyl glycol, Proline, Threonine, Isoleucine, Sodium chloride, Unknown, Urea, Unknown, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Menaquinone-7, Sodium dna, Magnesium chloride, Glucose, Sodium hyaluronate, Chondrus crispus extract, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Sodium acetylated hyaluronate, Hyaluronic acid, Centella asiatica leaf, Unknown, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, Potassium hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Sodium benzoate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	The LabatorianOceans Beyond MoisturizerYOUR PRODUCT	Rephrintense hydration cream 1.0	CosmetocriticoUltra Lipid Repair	skintificMSH Niacinamide Brightening Moisturizer
Match	—	74%	72%	71%
Price	—	—	—	$33.12
Shared key ingredients	—	18 of 56	18 of 56	9 of 56
Key difference	—	Adenosine	Gluconolactone	Alpha-Arbutin
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

"The Labatorian - Oceans Beyond Moisturizer" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. The Labatorian - Oceans Beyond Moisturizer ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl glucosamine, urea, alanine, arginine and aspartic acid) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide eop, ceramide ng, ceramide np, phytosphingosine and cholesterol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (4.60% - 5.60%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide as 0.30% - 0.55%, ceramide ng 0.35% - 0.60%, phytosphingosine 0.35% - 0.65%, ceramide eop 0.35% - 0.60%, ceramide ap 0.30% - 0.55% and ceramide np 0.35% - 0.65%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester 0.45% - 0.65%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.30% - 0.55%, madecassic acid 0.30% - 0.55% and asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.50% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lactic acid, lecithin, vitamin e, allantoin, dipotassium glycyrrhizate and caprylic/capric triglyceride

Irritation risk

There are actives in this product that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 82 studies and safety reviews.

1
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
The effect of N-acetyl-glucosamine on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefitsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitroonlinelibrary.wiley.com
7
Incorporation of D-(^H)glucosamine into normal and psoriatic epidermal glycoconjugatesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamineonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
Safety Assessment of Hydroxyethyl Urea As Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
10
Effects of glyceryl glucoside on AQP3 expression, barrier function and hydration of human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
Treatment of Xerosis with a Topical Formulation Containing Glyceryl Glucoside, Natural Moisturizing Factors, and Ceramideeuropepmc.org
12
Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
13
Efficacy and Safety of White Willow Bark (Salix alba) Extractonlinelibrary.wiley.com
14
An evaluation of the effect of a topical product containing salicin on the visible signs of human skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Use of iron in the form of a stone extract as stimulus of the synthesis of collagen by skin fibroblastspatents.google.com
16
Ameliorating effect of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate on an IL-4- and IL-13-induced atopic dermatitis-like skin-equivalent modelresearchgate.net
17
Final report on the safety assessment of Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Potassium Glycyrrhetinate, Disodium Succinoyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glyceryl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhetinyl Stearate, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhizic Acid, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Disodium Glycyrrhizate, Trisodium Glycyrrhizate, Methyl Glycyrrhizate, and Potassium Glycyrrhizinate.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
18
The Permeability Barrier in Essential Fatty Acid Deficiency: Evidence for a Direct Role for Linoleic Acid in Barrier Functionsciencedirect.com
19
Digital image analysis of the effect of topically applied linoleic acid on acne microcomedones.europepmc.org
20
Probiotics and prebiotics potential for the care of skin, female urogenital tract, and respiratory tractlink.springer.com
21
Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoinscielo.br
22
Allergic contact dermatitis from grassespubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediolsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
24
Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Modelmdpi.com
25
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica mdpi.com
27
Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblastsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
28
Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herbaema.europa.eu
29
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
30
The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trialliebertpub.com
31
Nuclear Factor Kappa B Inhibition as a Therapeutic Target of Nutraceuticals in Arthritis, Osteoarthritis, and Related Inflammationsciencedirect.com
32
Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
33
Scutellaria baicalensis, the golden herb from the garden of Chinese medicinal plantsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Flavonoids in Treating Psoriasissciencedirect.com
35
Improvement of skin barrier dysfunction by Scutellaria baicalensis GEOGI extracts through lactic acid fermentationonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
Safety Assessment of Scutellaria baicalensis-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
37
Allergic contact dermatitis induced by rosemary leaf extract in a cleansing gelpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Safety Assessment of Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmeticsjournals.sagepub.com
39
Rosmarinus officinalis Extract Suppresses Propionibacterium acnes–Induced Inflammatory Responsesliebertpub.com
40
Ferulic Acid: Therapeutic Potential Through Its Antioxidant Propertyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Ferulic acid stabilizes a solution of vitamins C and E and doubles its photoprotection of skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
42
Antioxidant Properties of Ferulic Acid and Its Possible Applicationkarger.com
43
Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrollink.springer.com
44
Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease? fasebj.org
45
Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skineuropepmc.org
46
Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agentmdpi.com
47
Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation
48
Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skinresearchgate.net
49
Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proofncbi.nlm.nih.gov
50
In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmnessncbi.nlm.nih.gov
51
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
52
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
53
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
54
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
55
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
56
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
57
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
58
Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
59
Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systemsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
60
Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
61
Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory propertiesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
62
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
63
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
64
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
65
β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
66
Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucanonlinelibrary.wiley.com
67
Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
68
Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro studysciencedirect.com
69
A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucanssciencedirect.com
70
Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeastonlinelibrary.wiley.com
71
Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
72
Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatusncbi.nlm.nih.gov
73
Local rhamnosoft, ceramides and L‐isoleucine in atopic eczema: a randomized, placebo controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
74
Topical urea in skincare: A reviewpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
75
Histidine and/or Histidine Derivative for the Treatment of Inflammatory Skin Diseasespatents.google.com
76
Safety Assessment of α-Amino Acids as Used in Cosmeticsciteseerx.ist.psu.edu
77
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
78
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
79
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
80
Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humansncbi.nlm.nih.gov
81
Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic reviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
82
Acetylated Hyaluronic Acid: Enhanced Bioavailability and Biological Studieshindawi.com

The LabatorianOceans Beyond Moisturizer

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