THE FACE SHOP

THE FACE SHOP Dr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Cream

Name: THE FACE SHOP - Dr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Cream
Brand: THE FACE SHOP

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging

8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Helps brighten skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and restore skin elasticity.”

Source: Yesstyle

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.2–1.5%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.5–0.7%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

4 ingredients credited for this claim

Moderate support

What the product description says

“Helps brighten skin tone, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and restore skin elasticity.”

Source: Yesstyle

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.25–0.45%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.45%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.15–0.3%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 8 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.25–0.45%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%

Daucus carota sativa seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect~0.25–0.5%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.25–0.45%

Daucus carota sativa root extractEffect: LowCarrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color~0.25–0.45%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Moisturizing

Not advertised by the brand · 36 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8, ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, panthenol

CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.25–0.5%

GlycosphingolipidsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipids naturally present in skin. They can be converted to ceramides in skin~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.6%

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.3–0.5%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Acetyl hexapeptide-8Hero· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.45%

Polyglycerin-3Key active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed collagenKey active· Humectant, EmollientEffect: HighA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.2–1.5%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.5–1.8%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.4%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.15–0.3%

Vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3.1%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.35%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.65%

Glyceryl stearate seKey activeEffect: MediumUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient~0.75–1.1%

Hydrogenated vegetable oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.4%

Lactobacillus ferment lysateKey activeEffect: MediumA "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking~0.2–0.4%

Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~0.2–0.35%

PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.2–0.35%

Cyclohexasiloxane· EmollientEffect: LowA silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels~1.6–2%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%

Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~0.55–0.85%

Olus oil· EmollientEffect: LowAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~2–2.5%

Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~0.3–0.6%

Dextrin· HumectantEffect: LowA sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.25–0.5%

Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~0.25–0.45%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~6.4–7.8%

Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.15–0.3%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.5–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

5 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Rosa damascena flower oil + 3 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Copaifera officinalis resinUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Santalum album oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.4%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.5–1.8%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Sodium stearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.6–0.9%est.

Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Juniperus virginiana oilCedarwood oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Comedogenic

5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

5 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.2–1.5%est.

Theobroma cacao seed extract—3/5~0.25–0.4%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient2/5~0.75–1.1%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.35–0.65%est.

Hydrogenated vegetable oilAn oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin2/5~0.25–0.4%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Butylene glycol~6.4–7.8%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glycerin~4.6–5.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Propanediol~3.2–3.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Vegetable oil~2.5–3.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Vegetable oil

Olus oil~2–2.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Olus oil

Cyclohexasiloxane~1.6–2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels

More about Cyclohexasiloxane

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.5–1.8%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.2–1.5%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Glyceryl stearate se~0.75–1.1%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient

More about Glyceryl stearate se

Hydrogenated polydecene~0.55–0.85%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene

Niacinamide~0.5–0.7%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

1,2-hexanediol~0.35–0.65%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol

Stearic acid~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Dicaprylyl ether~0.3–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether

Cetearyl alcohol~0.35–0.65%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Panthenol~0.3–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingReduces rednessReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Polyglycerin-3~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglycerin-3

Potassium cetyl phosphate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate

Hydrogenated vegetable oil~0.25–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An oil from a mixture of different vegetables. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated vegetable oil

Sodium stearate~0.6–0.9%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearate

Behenyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol

Olea europaea fruit oil~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer

Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Tromethamine~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine

Phospholipids~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids

Cellulose gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to create thicker product consistency and stabilize emulsions

More about Cellulose gum

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate

Ceramide np~0.2–0.4%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np

Adenosine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Amyris balsamifera bark oil~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Amyris balsamifera bark oil

Dextrin~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A sugar that is used to stabilize the product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Dextrin

Glyceryl stearate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Theobroma cacao seed extract~0.25–0.4%

Comedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

More about Theobroma cacao seed extract

Hydrolyzed collagen~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrolyzed collagen

Trisodium edta~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps preserve product formulations

More about Trisodium edta

Rosa damascena flower oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil

Copaifera officinalis resin~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Copaifera officinalis resin

Juniperus virginiana oil~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Cedarwood oil. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Juniperus virginiana oil

Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Vetiveria zizanoides root oil

Santalum album oil~0.25–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Santalum album oil

Polysorbate 60~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60

Carbomer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Lactobacillus ferment lysate~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A "broth" with parts of dead cells of lactobacteria. Might be helpful supporting diverse microbiome in skin, but evidence is lacking

More about Lactobacillus ferment lysate

Glycosphingolipids~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of lipids naturally present in skin. They can be converted to ceramides in skin

More about Glycosphingolipids

Cholesterol~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol

Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Acetyl hexapeptide-8~0.25–0.45%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8

Beta-carotene~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A colorant adding orange or bright yellow color

More about Beta-carotene

Daucus carota sativa root extract~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidation

Carrot extract. Might have anti-oxidant properties and be used to add orange color

More about Daucus carota sativa root extract

Daucus carota sativa seed oil~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.25–0.5%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Polysorbate 20~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Sodium lactate~0.15–0.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate

Citronellol~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Ingredient list view

Water, Butylene glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Vegetable oil, Olus oil, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glyceryl stearate se, Hydrogenated polydecene, Niacinamide, 1,2-hexanediol, Stearic acid, Dicaprylyl ether, Cetearyl alcohol, Panthenol, Polyglycerin-3, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Hydrogenated vegetable oil, Sodium stearate, Behenyl alcohol, Olea europaea fruit oil, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Xanthan gum, Tromethamine, Phospholipids, Cellulose gum, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Ceramide np, Adenosine, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Amyris balsamifera bark oil, Dextrin, Glyceryl stearate, Theobroma cacao seed extract, Hydrolyzed collagen, Trisodium edta, Rosa damascena flower oil, Copaifera officinalis resin, Juniperus virginiana oil, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Santalum album oil, Polysorbate 60, Carbomer, Lactobacillus ferment lysate, Glycosphingolipids, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Beta-carotene, Daucus carota sativa root extract, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Ascorbyl palmitate, Caprylyl glycol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium lactate, Sorbitan isostearate, Citronellol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	THE FACE SHOPDr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome CreamYOUR PRODUCT	NEOGEN X SUR.MEDICSurmedic 24K Gold Caviar Repair Vital Cream	AHCHydrating Essential Real Eye Cream for Face	EyenlipSalmon Oil Revitalizing Cream
Match	—	88%	85%	85%
Price	$33.70	$39.59+$5.89	$21.14−$12.56	$16.52−$17.18
Shared key ingredients	—	11 of 19	12 of 19	9 of 19
Key difference	—	Copper Tripeptide-1	Copper Tripeptide-1	Hexapeptide-9
Irritancy	High	Medium	High	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	Contains drying alcohol	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "THE FACE SHOP - Dr. Belmeur Total Youth Biome Cream" works well for moisturizing the skin. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Acetyl hexapeptide-8, panthenol, glycerin, hydrolyzed collagen and polyglycerin-3 in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide np, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, cholesterol and glycosphingolipids) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide np 0.20% - 0.40%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.25% - 0.50% and acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.25% - 0.45%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.35%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, dipotassium glycyrrhizate, stearic acid and niacinamide

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.