PRODUCT REVIEW
The Chemistry Brand Retin-Oil
Buy from Amazon US $49.99
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Price as of 2/9/2023 1:28 GMT.
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What can the product work for?
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Highly concentrated dry body oil combines a next-generation retinoid complex (1%) that fights multiple signs of age, along with vitamins C and E, skin-enhancing Amazonian oils and deep-sea red algae to improve the looks of scars, stretch marks, cellulite, dehydration, surface irregularities and discolouration.
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
4.3% -
6.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Highly concentrated dry body oil combines a next-generation retinoid complex (1%) that fights multiple signs of age, along with vitamins C and E, skin-enhancing Amazonian oils and deep-sea red algae to improve the looks of scars, stretch marks, cellulite, dehydration, surface irregularities and discolouration.
caprylic/capric triglyceride
1.6% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
algae extract
3% -
4.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
c12-15 alkyl benzoate
22% -
34%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
Show more
Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-aging
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
4.3% -
6.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
algae extract
3% -
4.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
Show more
Anti-oxidation
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
4.3% -
6.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
euterpe oleracea fruit oil
1.6% -
2.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
tocopherol
0.85% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Evens skin tone | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
87/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
parfum
0.1% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
algae extract
3% -
4.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
User reviews (0)
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| WIMJ similarity score |
74%
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Other:
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tocopherol
0.85% -
1.3%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
parfum
0.1% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
algae extract
3% -
4.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
All ingredients
c12-15 alkyl benzoate
22% -
34%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Enhances the product texture and makes it more spreadable. Helps reduce water loss from the outer layer of skin. Extands the shelf life by preventing bacteria growth
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
4.3% -
6.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.
Show more
Ingredient list view
C12-15 alkyl benzoate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Algae extract, Oenocarpus bataua fruit oil, Euterpe oleracea fruit oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl acetate, Ethoxydiglycol, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool
Sources
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage
- Application of tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations: Stability studies and in vivo efficacy