Tatcha US DEV The Longevity Memory Cream

Tatcha US DEV The Longevity Memory Cream

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Helps restore skin’s youthful look & delay visible signs of aging”
Source: Tatcha

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: nonapeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
Nonapeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Improves moisturization and skin barrier*”
Source: Tatcha

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, nonapeptide-1

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~3.1–3.8%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.4%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~1.2–1.4%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.3–0.55%
Saccharomyces lysate extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can have some anti-inflammatory effect~0.3–0.5%
TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.4%
NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
Nonapeptide-1HeroEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.4%
Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA mix of amino acids and plant-based lipids. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss over time~1.5–1.8%
Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrateKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA product of yeast fermentation. Can contain humectants that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help neutralize free oxidants~0.5–0.7%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~4–4.8%
Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~0.6–0.9%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.9–2.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Dipotassium glycyrrhizateEffect: Low, below effective doseA salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening~0.25–0.4%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.3–2.8%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.45–0.7%
Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrateEffect: LowA product of yeast fermentation. Can contain humectants that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help neutralize free oxidants~0.5–0.7%
Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamateEffect: LowA mix of amino acids and plant-based lipids. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss over time~1.5–1.8%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Citrus depressa peel extract, Parfum + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 17 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus depressa peel extractA citrus extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus limon peel oilA highly irritating fragranceHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.9–2.4%est.
Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 etherHelps create a gel-like product textureMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium hydroxideUsed to adjust the pH level of productsMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~4–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Dimethicone~3.1–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Niacinamide~2.3–2.8%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialAnti-inflammatoryReduces redness

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Pentylene glycol~1.9–2.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Glycereth-26~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps create a thicker product consistency

More about Glycereth-26
Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A mix of amino acids and plant-based lipids. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss over time

More about Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate
Betaine~1.2–1.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether~0.95–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps create a gel-like product texture

More about Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether
Dipropylene glycol~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol
Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride
Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A product of yeast fermentation. Can contain humectants that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help neutralize free oxidants

More about Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Cladosiphon okamuranus extract~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Morinda citrifolia fruit juice~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Alpinia speciosa leaf extract~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Psidium guajava leaf extract~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Citrus depressa peel extract~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A citrus extract. Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus depressa peel extract
Saccharomyces lysate extract~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Can have some anti-inflammatory effect

More about Saccharomyces lysate extract
Ricinus communis seed oil~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Propanediol~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Triethylhexanoin~0.2–0.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Arginine~0.2–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Tocopherol~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate~0.25–0.4%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

A salt derived from licorice. Works as an emollient to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help calm down inflammation. Might be helpful for skin lightening

More about Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
Sodium phosphate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium phosphate
Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Nonapeptide-1~0.25–0.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Nonapeptide-1
Parfum~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Potassium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to adjust the pH level of products

More about Potassium hydroxide
Potassium laurate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Potassium laurate
Disodium phosphate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Citral~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritant

More about Citral
Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Citrus limon peel oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A highly irritating fragrance

More about Citrus limon peel oil
Limonene~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Linalyl acetate~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Pinene~0.15–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pinene
Terpineol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Terpineol
Turpentine~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Turpentine
Silica~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Iron oxides~0.1–0.15%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Pentylene glycol, Glycereth-26, Phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate, Betaine, Peg-240/hdi copolymer bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether, Dipropylene glycol, Caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride, Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Cladosiphon okamuranus extract, Morinda citrifolia fruit juice, Alpinia speciosa leaf extract, Psidium guajava leaf extract, Citrus depressa peel extract, Saccharomyces lysate extract, Ricinus communis seed oil, Propanediol, Triethylhexanoin, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Arginine, Tocopherol, Dipotassium glycyrrhizate, Sodium phosphate, Caprylyl glycol, Nonapeptide-1, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium hydroxide, Potassium laurate, Disodium phosphate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Citral, Citrus aurantium bergamia peel oil, Citrus limon peel oil, Limonene, Linalool, Linalyl acetate, Pinene, Terpineol, Turpentine, Silica, Iron oxides

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Tatcha
$84.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Tatcha US DEVThe Longevity Memory CreamYOUR PRODUCTNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICProbiotics Youth Repair CreamHolika HolikaPrime Youth 24K Gold Repair CreamTIRTIRMatcha Calming Cream 50ml
Match—89%88%88%
Price$84.00$24.30−$59.70$58.20−$25.80$43.56−$40.44
Shared key ingredients—7 of 137 of 137 of 13
Key difference—Hexapeptide-11Tripeptide-1Dipeptide-2
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
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Tatcha US DEV The Longevity Memory Cream
Tatcha US DEVThe Longevity Memory Cream

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