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SLMD Skincare by Sandra Lee, M.D. - Dr. Pimple Popper Dream On
SLMD Skincare by Sandra Lee, M.D. - Dr. Pimple Popper

SLMD Skincare by Sandra Lee, M.D. - Dr. Pimple Popper Dream On

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
4 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Powered by gold-standard ingredients retinol, squalane, vitamin E, and lactobacillus – a probiotic that maintains the health of the skin’s microbiome – this ultra-hydrating cream works while you sleep to tighten and brighten, reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles, and create a firmer looking appearance to your skin.”
Source: N/A

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4.1%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%
Moisturizing
17 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Formulated with the power of retinol – a proven, dermatologist-recommended ingredient known to boost collagen, encourage cell turnover and improve hyperpigmentation Improves the appearance of firmer, smoother, and more moisturized skin Rich in texture, yet weightless on the skin, leaving your skin feeling nourished and moisturized Dermatologist Tested Suitable for all skin types”
Source: N/A

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydrolyzed rice protein.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, helianthus annuus seed oil.

SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~6.1–7.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4.1%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.3–5.2%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.6–0.9%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.95–1.15%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.7–1%
Olea europaea fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation~1.1–1.3%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~2.4–3%
Hydrolyzed rice proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.25%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.55–0.8%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.1–2.5%
Hydrogenated polydecene· EmollientEffect: LowHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture~1.3–1.5%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateEffect: LowHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin~0.55–0.8%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.65–0.95%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%
Evens skin tone
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractEffect: LowAn enzyme-based exfoliant~0.3–0.5%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractEffect: LowAn enzyme-based exfoliant~0.3–0.5%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 6 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4.1%
Hydrolyzed rice proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties~0.15–0.25%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%
Centella asiatica extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.35%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.45–0.7%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%
Centella asiatica extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.2–0.35%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Retinol
Medium risk
We flagged 12 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extractAn enzyme-based exfoliantHigh~0.3–0.5%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Sodium acrylates copolymerUsed to create a thicker product consistencyMedium~1.6–2%est.
Olea europaea fruit oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammationMedium~1.1–1.3%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.7–1%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.65–0.95%est.
Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.45–0.7%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.3–4.1%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~2.4–3%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.7–1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Squalane~6.1–7.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Glycerin~4.3–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.3–4.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Cetearyl alcohol~2.4–3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Glyceryl stearate~2.1–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Sodium acrylates copolymer~1.6–2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Sodium acrylates copolymer
Phenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Hydrogenated polydecene~1.3–1.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture

More about Hydrogenated polydecene
Olea europaea fruit oil~1.1–1.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin but is not effective for restoring its barrier function. Might be helpful to calm down inflammation

More about Olea europaea fruit oil
Persea gratissima oil~0.95–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Glycine soja oil~0.7–1%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Caprylyl glycol~0.65–0.95%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.6–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Phospholipids~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Polyglyceryl-10 stearate~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-10 stearate
Sodium phytate~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Xanthan gum~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Titanium dioxide~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide
Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract~0.3–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationEvens skin tone

An enzyme-based exfoliant

More about Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Retinol~0.15–0.3%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidation

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol
Pentylene glycol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Hydrolyzed rice protein~0.15–0.25%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-oxidant properties

More about Hydrolyzed rice protein
Centella asiatica extract~0.2–0.35%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingAnti-oxidationAnti-blemish

A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.

More about Centella asiatica extract
Sodium benzoate~0.1–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Tocopherol~0.1–0.15%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ingredient list view

Water, Squalane, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrogenated polydecene, Olea europaea fruit oil, Persea gratissima oil, Glycine soja oil, Caprylyl glycol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 stearate, Sodium phytate, Tocopheryl acetate, Xanthan gum, Titanium dioxide, Lactobacillus/punica granatum fruit ferment extract, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric acid, Retinol, Pentylene glycol, Hydrolyzed rice protein, Centella asiatica extract, Sodium benzoate, Tocopherol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
SLMD Skincare by Sandra Lee, M.D. - Dr. Pimple PopperDream OnYOUR PRODUCTHydroPeptideTravel-Size Nimni CreamNaturiumRetinol Complex CreamBiopelleEmepelle Night Cream
Match—83%83%82%
Price—$45.00$15.99$195.00
Shared key ingredients—5 of 95 of 91 of 9
Key difference—Linoleic AcidBakuchiolNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredientsjournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Safety Assessment of Polyene Group as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
  4. 4
    Use of “natural” oils for moisturization: Review of olive, coconut, and sunflower seed oilonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  6. 6
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
SLMD Skincare by Sandra Lee, M.D. - Dr. Pimple Popper Dream On
SLMD Skincare by Sandra Lee, M.D. - Dr. Pimple PopperDream On
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