PRODUCT REVIEW
Skin Design London Retexturising - New Skin
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What can the product work for?
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Formulated with a gradual release system and soothing, redness-reducing arnica, this clever concoction minimises the irritation associated with retinol and helps to reduce any inflammation.
retinol
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
niacinamide
0.1% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
With advanced retinol, lactic acid, niacinamide and sea algae, this renewing daily serum encourages cellular turnover to minimise signs of ageing and reveal youthful, radiant skin.
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
retinol
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
algae extract
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
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Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
With advanced retinol, lactic acid, niacinamide and sea algae, this renewing daily serum encourages cellular turnover to minimise signs of ageing and reveal youthful, radiant skin.
retinol
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
lactic acid
0.8% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Retexturising .
algae extract
0.55% -
1.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but research is not extensive yet
glycerin
3.8% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
squalane
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
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Evens skin tone
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
retinol
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
lactic acid
0.8% -
1.2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Show more
Anti-oxidation
retinol
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
bisabolol
0.05% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Exfoliation | |
| Anti-blemish | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
93/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 4
Potential irritants
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
arnica montana flower extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
A plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skin
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Comodogenic ingredients
ceteareth-20
2.5% -
3.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
cetearyl alcohol
2% -
3.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Show more
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82%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
retinol
0.1% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Mattifying,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
Show more
Potential irritants
glycolic acid
1% -
1.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation,
Anti-blemish
An alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps to remove the dead skin cells on the surface of the skin reveling a more even, smoother complexation. It is also able to stimulate collagen production with long-term use. Could help to reduce pore congestion. It can be irritating to the skin. Apply sunscreen daily if using products with glycolic acid
arnica montana flower extract
0.35% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
A plant extract that can be irritating. It can have some anti-bacterial properties, but there are no evidence of a beneficial effect for skin
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
ceteareth-20
2.5% -
3.8%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing
Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient properties
cetearyl alcohol
2% -
3.1%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Cleansing,
Moisturizing
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Show more
All ingredients
glycerin
3.8% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
cetearyl isononanoate
3.6% -
5.4%
Irritation risk:
An emollient that softens the skin and helps prevent moisture loss.
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Cetearyl isononanoate, Ceteareth-20, Cetearyl alcohol, Glyceryl stearate, Ceteareth-12, Cetyl palmitate, Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Algae extract, Sodium hydroxide, Arnica montana flower extract, Algae extract, Squalane, Xanthan gum, Caesalpinia spinosa gum, Hypoxis rooperi rhizome extract, Retinol, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic acid, Niacinamide, Dehydroacetic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyaminopropyl biguanide, Bisabolol, Parfum
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Photoprotective and antiinflammatory effects of topical glycolic acid
- Glycolic acid peel therapy – a current review
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Effects of Topical Arnica Gel on Post-Laser Treatment Bruises
- Effects of microcurrent application alone or in combination with topical Hypericum perforatum L. and Arnica montana L. on surgically induced wound healing in Wistar rats
- The seamy side of natural medicines: contact sensitization to arnica (Arnica montana L.) and marigold (Calendula officinalis L.)
- Accelerated resolution of laser‐induced bruising with topical 20% arnica: a rater‐blinded randomized controlled trial
- Final Report On the Safety Assessment of Galactomannans As Used in Cosmetics
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- 4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid
- Contact allergy to polyhexamethylene biguanide (polyaminopropyl biguanide)