Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Key actives
Product Summary
"Sesderma - Azelac" is effective for: Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish
This product could be helpful for: Anti-aging, but its actives are not the most effective or are not well-studied.
Ingredient callouts
- this product includes a form of Retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.25% - 0.50% and retinyl propionate 0.45% - 0.70%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
- Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate (3.90% - 4.80%). It is a derivative of Azelaic Acid. It is less studied than Azelaic Acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium Azeloyl Diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with Azelaic Acid. Because of this property, products with Potassium Azeloyl Digclycinate can have a nicer texture.
- Humectants (pantolactone 0.25% - 0.50%, sodium hyaluronate 0.40% - 0.60% and panthenol 0.45% - 0.65%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Price
The product retails for 60.00$ in the United States and for 36.95£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: azelaic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
In addition, this product contains potassium azeloyl diglycinate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl propionate
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (azelaic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
An emollient that softens the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
reduces redness immediately after application instantly soothes irritation eliminates shortcomings improves blood circulation in the skin fights wrinkles and other signs of aging evens skin tone gives the skin elasticity and moisturizes it
Source: N/A
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: azelaic acid, potassium azeloyl diglycinate
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl propionate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
reduces redness immediately after application instantly soothes irritation eliminates shortcomings improves blood circulation in the skin fights wrinkles and other signs of aging evens skin tone gives the skin elasticity and moisturizes it
Source: N/A
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
pantolactone, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
An emollient that softens the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency
A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
An emollient that helps soften the skin
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
reduces redness immediately after application instantly soothes irritation eliminates shortcomings improves blood circulation in the skin fights wrinkles and other signs of aging evens skin tone gives the skin elasticity and moisturizes it
Source: N/A
This product contains retinyl propionate. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
An emollient that softens the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 91/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
No comedogenic ingredients detected
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|---|---|---|---|
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Key Actives
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel
Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
Potential irritants
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Comedogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comedogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Used to create a gel-like product texture, as well as to stabilize emulsions
Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Is produced by a yeast that lives on normal human skin. It is used in medicine as a topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. It has a mild exfoliating effect. It can also help reduce hyperpigmentation, helps calm down inflammation and can help neutralize free radicals
Might be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, even thought its potency is not as well established as in case of retinol or retinaldehyde
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin
Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Helps water and oil mix together and create gel-like textures
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency
A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel
Used to stabilize product formulations and create a nice product texture
Used to stabilize mixtures of oil and water, and create thicker, gel-like product textures
A colorant that can add a pearl-like appearance to the formulation
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Propylene glycol, Lecithin, Sodium polyacrylate, Alcohol, Cetearyl ethylhexanoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl cocoate, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Hydrogenated jojoba oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Niacinamide, Triclosan, Azelaic acid, Silybum marianum extract, Retinyl propionate, Panthenol, Sodium hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine hcl, Titanium dioxide, Mica, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Sodium cholate, Acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer, C13-14 isoparaffin, Ppg-3 benzyl ether myristate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium hydroxide, Polysilicone-11, Laureth-7, Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, Sodium chloride, Tin oxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Retinyl palmitate, Bht, Pantolactone, Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Parfum, Linalool, Citronellol, Benzyl salicylate
- Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosacea
- A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfections
- Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibrium
- Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-aging
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Amended Safety Assessment of Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil and its Derivatives
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Retinol and retinyl esters: biochemistry and physiology
- A clinicopathological study of the effects of topical retinyl propionate cream in skin photoageing
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- Safety Assessment of Isoparaffins as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Tin(IV) Oxide as Used in Cosmetics
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Final amended report on the safety assessment of Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isopropylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben, and Benzylparaben as used in cosmetic products