SBTRCT Skincare Rejuvenating Night Balm with 2% Granactive Retinoid + Squalane
Works for
4 of 4 advertised claims delivered
Evens skin toneHydroxypinacolone retinoateStrong evidence
“Evens skin tone, improving skin texture and diminishing the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin feeling immediately smooth and more luminous.”
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
MoisturizingPanthenol, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 6 moreStrong evidence
“Evens skin tone, improving skin texture and diminishing the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin feeling immediately smooth and more luminous.”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, squalane.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol
Anti-agingHydroxypinacolone retinoate, Butyrospermum parkii butterStrong evidence
“Evens skin tone, improving skin texture and diminishing the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin feeling immediately smooth and more luminous.”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Anti-blemishHydroxypinacolone retinoateStrong evidence
“As a precaution, we advise against the use of retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding.”
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy7 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Zingiber officinale root extract + 5 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale1 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
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Brassica alcohol~23–34%
Squalane~5–7.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
More about SqualaneHydrogenated olive oil decyl esters~4.5–6.8%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps stabilize the product formulation
More about Hydrogenated olive oil decyl estersOrbignya oleifera seed oil~3.8–5.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A plant oil that can help soften the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in calming down inflammation in skin
More about Orbignya oleifera seed oilSilica~2.7–4.1%
Butyrospermum parkii butter~2.2–3.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
More about Butyrospermum parkii butterGlycerin~1.5–2.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinTapioca starch~1.2–1.8%
Rosa canina fruit oil~1.1–1.6%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating
More about Rosa canina fruit oilSorbitan olivate~0.85–1.3%
Panthenol~0.55–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
More about PanthenolDimethyl isosorbide~0.5–1.15%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
More about Dimethyl isosorbideHydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- High
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoateZingiber officinale root extract~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
More about Zingiber officinale root extractBisabolol~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
More about BisabololParfum~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumRhus succedanea fruit cera~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helianthus annuus seed cera~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Helianthus annuus seed ceraRhus verniciflua peel cera~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Shorea robusta resin~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Help soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Olea europaea oil unsaponifiablesTocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
More about Tocopheryl acetateDehydroacetic acid~0.3–0.6%
Water~0.2–0.7%
Benzyl alcohol~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- High
A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating
More about Benzyl alcoholLinalool~0.1–0.35%
Geraniol~0.1–0.3%
Limonene~0.05–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- High
A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat
More about LimoneneCitronellol~0.05–0.25%
Ingredient list view
Brassica alcohol, Squalane, Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters, Orbignya oleifera seed oil, Silica, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Tapioca starch, Rosa canina fruit oil, Sorbitan olivate, Panthenol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Zingiber officinale root extract, Bisabolol, Parfum, Rhus succedanea fruit cera, Helianthus annuus seed cera, Rhus verniciflua peel cera, Shorea robusta resin, Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables, Tocopheryl acetate, Dehydroacetic acid, Water, Benzyl alcohol, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Unknown
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| SBTRCT SkincareRejuvenating Night Balm with 2% Granactive Retinoid + SqualaneYOUR PRODUCT | Dr.Reju-AllAdvanced Retino-Mela Serum | ROUND LABCamellia Deep Collagen Ampoule 30ml | StripesEvening Wear Firming Cream with Retinoid and Hyaluronic Acid | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 87% | 82% | 79% |
| Price | $42.78 | $31.70−$11.08 | $17.52−$25.26 | $80.00+$37.22 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 5 of 9 | 4 of 9 | 5 of 9 |
| Key difference | — | Niacinamide | Niacinamide | Ectoin |
| Irritancy | High | Medium | Medium | High |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
"SBTRCT Skincare - Rejuvenating Night Balm with 2% Granactive Retinoid + Squalane" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Helianthus annuus seed cera, orbignya oleifera seed oil, butyrospermum parkii butter and squalane in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.05% - 0.15%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
- This formulation also uses an effective concentration of panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) - about 0.55% - 1.30%. Panthenol helps strengthen the skin barrier, improve hydration and reduce inflammation in skin.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 32.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 11 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
- 4
- 5
- 6
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