PRODUCT REVIEW
SBTRCT Skincare Rejuvenating Night Balm with 2% Granactive Retinoid + Squalane
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-blemish
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Can it cause trouble?
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Works for
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
As a precaution, we advise against the use of retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Evens skin tone, improving skin texture and diminishing the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin feeling immediately smooth and more luminous.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
butyrospermum parkii butter
2.2% -
3.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Evens skin tone, improving skin texture and diminishing the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin feeling immediately smooth and more luminous.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Evens skin tone, improving skin texture and diminishing the appearance of fine lines, leaving skin feeling immediately smooth and more luminous.
butyrospermum parkii butter
2.2% -
3.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
helianthus annuus seed cera
0.4% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
squalane
5% -
7.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.4% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
2.2% -
3.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
User reviews (0)
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72%
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45%
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
butyrospermum parkii butter
2.2% -
3.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.05% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
zingiber officinale root extract
0.4% -
0.95%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation
A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
2.2% -
3.3%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
All ingredients
squalane
5% -
7.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters
4.5% -
6.8%
Irritation risk:
Helps stabilize the product formulation
Show more
Ingredient list view
Brassica alcohol, Squalane, Hydrogenated olive oil decyl esters, Orbignya oleifera seed oil, Silica, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Glycerin, Tapioca starch, Rosa canina fruit oil, Sorbitan olivate, Panthenol, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Zingiber officinale root extract, Bisabolol, Parfum, Rhus succedanea fruit cera, Helianthus annuus seed cera, Rhus verniciflua peel cera, Shorea robusta resin, Olea europaea oil unsaponifiables, Tocopheryl acetate, Dehydroacetic acid, Water, Benzyl alcohol, Linalool, Geraniol, Limonene, Citronellol, Unknown
Sources
- Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Babassu Oil and Development of a Microemulsion System for Topical Delivery
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- 4 Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid