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Clinique Smart Clinical Repair AM/PM Retinoid Balm
Clinique

Clinique Smart Clinical Repair AM/PM Retinoid Balm

Efficacy87/100IrritancyMedium
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Butyrospermum parkii butter + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Concentrated retinoid treatment that softens and plumps the look of fine, dry lines and targets deeper ones too.”
Source: Clinique

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–1.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.7%
Moisturizing
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Synthetic beeswax + 13 more
Works
What the product description says
“Concentrated retinoid treatment that softens and plumps the look of fine, dry lines and targets deeper ones too.”
Source: Clinique

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: sodium hyaluronate, caprylyl glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, butyrospermum parkii butter.

Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2Key active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface~5.6–8.4%
Synthetic beeswaxKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~3.7–5.6%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~3–4.6%
Diisostearyl malateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin~2.2–3.3%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~1.6–2.5%
C10-18 triglyceridesKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture~1.3–1.9%
Helianthus annuus seed waxKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency~1–1.6%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.6–1.4%
Mangifera indica seed butterKey activeEffect: HighHelps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.4–0.9%
Ricinus communis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.35–0.8%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.8%
Hydrogenated castor oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency~0.35–0.75%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~4.8–7.2%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.15–0.65%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.7%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
1 strong irritant: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Medium risk
We flagged 6 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.01–0.05%est.
Diisostearyl malateHelps to soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~2.2–3.3%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~1.6–2.5%est.
Ricinus communis seed oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Hydrogenated castor oilA plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistencyMedium~0.35–0.75%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.6–1.4%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Advanced Retino-Mela Serum
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate~22–33%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate
Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2~5.6–8.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce water loss from its surface

More about Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~4.8–7.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Synthetic beeswax~3.7–5.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Synthetic beeswax
Squalane~3–4.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Diisostearyl malate~2.2–3.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Diisostearyl malate
Jojoba esters~1.6–2.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
C10-18 triglycerides~1.3–1.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture

More about C10-18 triglycerides
Helianthus annuus seed wax~1–1.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function while creating a thicker product consistency

More about Helianthus annuus seed wax
Oryza sativa bran wax~0.6–1.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Oryza sativa bran wax
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.6–1.4%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Silica~0.9–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Mangifera indica seed butter~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Mangifera indica seed butter
Sodium hyaluronate~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tocopherol~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Ricinus communis seed oil~0.35–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Ricinus communis seed oil
Hydrogenated castor oil~0.35–0.75%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help soften the skin. It might be helpful in calming down inflammation, but solid research is lacking. Is often used in lip products to create the needed product consistency

More about Hydrogenated castor oil
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.05%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Glyceryl distearate~0.15–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glyceryl distearate
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Mica~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Ingredient list view

Glyceryl triacetyl ricinoleate, Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Synthetic beeswax, Squalane, Diisostearyl malate, Jojoba esters, C10-18 triglycerides, Helianthus annuus seed wax, Oryza sativa bran wax, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Silica, Mangifera indica seed butter, Sodium hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Ricinus communis seed oil, Hydrogenated castor oil, Caprylyl glycol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Glyceryl distearate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Mica

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/10 03:14 GMT
$37.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
CliniqueSmart Clinical Repair AM/PM Retinoid BalmYOUR PRODUCTDr.Reju-AllAdvanced Retino-Mela SerumBorgheseEnergia Retinol Renewal Night OilROUND LABCamellia Deep Collagen Ampoule
Match—73%72%72%
Price$37.00$26.85−$10.15$75.65+$38.65$17.22−$19.78
Shared key ingredients—3 of 112 of 112 of 11
Key difference—NiacinamideCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideNiacinamide
Irritancy Medium Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Safety assessment of bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 and bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-1 as used in cosmeticsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Extraction and Characteristics of Seed Kernel Oil from Mangopdfs.semanticscholar.org
  5. 5
    Promising features of mango (Mangifera indica L.) kernel oil: a reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Evaluation of the fatty acid composition of the seeds of Mangifera indica L. and their applicationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Clinique Smart Clinical Repair AM/PM Retinoid Balm
CliniqueSmart Clinical Repair AM/PM Retinoid Balm
Buy on Amazon$37.00 · as of 11/10 03:14 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$37.00 · as of 11/10 03:14 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.