PRODUCT REVIEW
Peter Thomas Roth Green Releaf Therapeutic Sleep Cream
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Price as of 2/12/2023 2:10 GMT.
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Fine Lines and Wrinkles, Redness, and Uneven Texture Formulation.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
centella asiatica leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.
melatonin
1.5% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Smooths the look of fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and texture. . Topical Melatonin 2%.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
gluconolactone
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Fine Lines and Wrinkles, Redness, and Uneven Texture Formulation.
helianthus annuus seed oil
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
glycerin
3.8% -
4.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
vitis vinifera seed oil
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
centella asiatica leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. It can be irritating to sensitive skin. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It could, however, itself be irritating.
melia azadirachta leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
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Anti-oxidation
melatonin
1.5% -
1.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare
plantago lanceolata leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant extract that might have anti-oxidant properties
vitis vinifera seed oil
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
melia azadirachta leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
laminaria digitata extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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HIGH
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HIGH
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
allantoin
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-inflammatory,
Moisturizing,
Reduces redness,
Reduces irritation,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated
gluconolactone
0.2% -
0.35%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Moisturizing,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-blemish
A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.1% -
0.15%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
melia azadirachta leaf extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Antibacterial,
Anti-blemish
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
laminaria digitata extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
propanediol
5% -
6.2%
Irritation risk:
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
glycerin
3.8% -
4.6%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, C9-12 alkane, Butylene glycol, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Melatonin, Dicaprylyl ether, Dimethyl isosorbide, Behenyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Octyldodecyl oleate, Glyceryl stearate, Stearyl alcohol, Carbomer, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Daucus carota sativa extract, Octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Plantago lanceolata leaf extract, Jojoba esters, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Adansonia digitata seed oil, Allantoin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Cannabis sativa seed oil, Corylus avellana seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, Mica, Sorbitol, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Bisabolol, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Sodium hydroxide, Polyhydroxystearic acid, Laminaria digitata extract, Octyldodecanol, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Lecithin, Centella asiatica leaf extract, Ceramide np, Caprylyl glycol, Gluconolactone, Avena sativa kernel extract, Diatomaceous earth, Tocopheryl acetate, Glyceryl caprylate, Zingiber officinale root extract, Tocopherol, Ci 19140, Ci 42090, Ci 17200, Ci 14700
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- [Melatonin in dermatology. Experimental and clinical aspects]
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Profile of wound healing process induced by allantoin
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) seed oil: Analytical and phytochemical characterization of unsaponifiable fraction
- Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) as a Resource for Green Cosmetics
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Melia azedarach
- Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overview
- α-(-)-Bisabolol Reduces Pro-Inflammatory Cytokine Production and Ameliorates Skin Inflammation
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acne
- The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoaging
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative study
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
- Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acids
- An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patients
- Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Prevention
- Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacids
- Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Light
- Some phytochemical, pharmacological and toxicological properties of ginger (Zingiber officinale Roscoe): A review of recent research
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health