PRODUCT REVIEW
Pestle & Mortar Superstar Retinoid Night Oil
Buy from Amazon US $76.00
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Price as of 2/11/2023 1:36 GMT.
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What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
By stimulating and encouraging cell growth and turnover, the signs of ageing are reversed, collagen production is boosted and lines and wrinkles are smoothed.
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinyl palmitate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
tocopherol
0.15% -
0.6%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate is a new generation of retinoid.
rosa canina seed oil
3.3% -
4.9%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes
nigella sativa seed oil
0.8% -
1.25%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid
ribes nigrum seed oil
2.1% -
3.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.
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Anti-blemish
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinyl palmitate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Evens skin tone
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinyl palmitate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Anti-oxidation
vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil
0.45% -
1.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function
daucus carota sativa seed oil
1.3% -
2%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect
calendula officinalis flower oil
0.05% -
0.3%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
A plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
87/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 0
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinyl palmitate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
No comodogenic ingredients detected
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinyl palmitate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Evens skin tone,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
retinyl palmitate
1.4% -
2.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Exfoliation
Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
We couldn't find any comodogenic ingredients in this product
All ingredients
vitis vinifera seed oil
30% -
44%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties
simmondsia chinensis seed oil
5.4% -
8.1%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
persea gratissima oil
3.8% -
5.8%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
Show more
Ingredient list view
Vitis vinifera seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Persea gratissima oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Punica granatum seed oil, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinyl palmitate, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Tocopherol, Calendula officinalis flower oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Helianthus annuus seed oil
Sources
- Nutrient composition of rose (Rosa canina L.) seed and oils
- Characterization of Rosehip (Rosa canina L.) Seed and Seed Oil
- Bioactive ingredients of rose hips (Rosa canina L) with special reference to antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties: in vitro studies
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- New Claims for Wild Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. carota) Essential Oil
- Wound‐healing Properties of the Oils of Vitis vinifera and Vaccinium macrocarpon
- BERRY SEEDS: A SOURCE OF SPECIALTY OILS WITH HIGH CONTENT OF BIOACTIVES AND NUTRITIONAL VALUE
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin