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Votary Intense Night Oil - Rosehip and Retinoid
Votary

Votary Intense Night Oil - Rosehip and Retinoid

Efficacy91/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Tocopherol
Works well
What the product description says
“Give ageing skin a gentle nudge in the right direction with Votary Intense Night Oil, an effective overnight treatment that works to reduce the signs of ageing and reinvigorate the complexion.This potent night oil gets to work while the skin is most receptive to healing as you sleep.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.9–1.35%
Evens skin tone
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well
What the product description says
“Calming the skin, these ingredients help to smooth the skin’s tone and texture, creating a look that’s naturally more radiant.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.1%
Moisturizing
Vitis vinifera seed oil, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil + 7 more
Works
What the product description says
“Formulated with Acmella Flower Extract, this night oil is proven to help improve dermal structure, leaving the skin feeling firmer.”
Source: Face the future

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: caprylic/capric triglyceride, helianthus annuus seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~30–44%
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin~4.6–6.9%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~3.6–5.3%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~2.9–4.3%
Rosa canina fruit oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~2.1–3.2%
Solanum lycopersicum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and, due to the high linoleic acid content, can support the skin's barrier function~1.4–2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.3–1.9%
Rosa damascena flower oilEffect: LowUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritating~0.1–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.9–1.35%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.1%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Calendula officinalis flower extract + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.01–0.1%est.
Spilanthes acmella flower extractPlant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skinHigh~0.45–1%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.35–0.8%est.
Rosa damascena flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.5%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.3%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~30–44%est.
Prunus armeniaca kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the skinMedium~4.6–6.9%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~3.6–5.3%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~2.1–3.2%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.3–1.9%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
MIDNIGHT COURAGE Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night Oil
psa MIDNIGHT COURAGE Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night Oil
Cheaper87% match
$35.12
Midnight Courage Rosehip and Bakuchiol Retinol Night Oil
PSA Skin Midnight Courage Rosehip and Bakuchiol Retinol Night Oil
Cheaper86% match
$28.61
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Vitis vinifera seed oil~30–44%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Prunus armeniaca kernel oil~4.6–6.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Prunus armeniaca kernel oil
Persea gratissima oil~3.6–5.3%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Helianthus annuus seed oil~2.9–4.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Rosa canina fruit oil~2.1–3.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Fusanus spicatus kernel oil~1.6–2.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Fusanus spicatus kernel oil
Solanum lycopersicum seed oil~1.4–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin and, due to the high linoleic acid content, can support the skin's barrier function

More about Solanum lycopersicum seed oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.3–1.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Tocopherol~0.9–1.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.1%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Spilanthes acmella flower extract~0.45–1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that might hep calm down inflammation in skin

More about Spilanthes acmella flower extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.35–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.3–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Dalbergia spp
Not recognized
Rosa damascena flower oil~0.1–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Rosa damascena flower oil
Linalool~0.1–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Citronellol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Geraniol~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Benzyl benzoate~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Ingredient list view

Vitis vinifera seed oil, Prunus armeniaca kernel oil, Persea gratissima oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosa canina fruit oil, Fusanus spicatus kernel oil, Solanum lycopersicum seed oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Tocopherol, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Spilanthes acmella flower extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Dimethyl isosorbide, Unknown, Rosa damascena flower oil, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Benzyl benzoate

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SpaceNK US
$196.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
VotaryIntense Night Oil - Rosehip and RetinoidYOUR PRODUCTpsaMIDNIGHT COURAGE Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinoid Night OilAwake BeautyPower After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep OilPSA SkinMidnight Courage Rosehip and Bakuchiol Retinol Night Oil
Match—87%86%86%
Price$196.00$35.12−$160.88—$28.61−$167.39
Shared key ingredients—4 of 105 of 103 of 10
Key difference—BakuchiolSalvia Hispanica Seed OilBakuchiol
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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More alternatives: Purposeful Skincare by Allies (PSA) Midnight Courage Rosehip & Bakuchiol Retinol Night OilBYOMA Sensitive Retinol Oil

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 17 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  2. 2
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  3. 3
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Characteristics and composition of tomato seed oilgrasasyaceites.revistas.csic.es
  6. 6
    Physicochemical characteristics and fatty acid composition of tomato seed oils from processing wastesscielo.br
Votary Intense Night Oil - Rosehip and Retinoid
VotaryIntense Night Oil - Rosehip and Retinoid
Buy at SpaceNK US$196.00Amazon

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Buy at SpaceNK US$196.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.