Awake Beauty Power After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep Oil

Awake Beauty Power After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep Oil

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Anti-aging
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Tocopherol
Works well
What the product description says
“Say goodnight to wrinkles with Awake Beauty's Power After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep Oil a gentle yet effective sleep oil formulated with 2% retinol complex designed to combat signs of aging, overnight.”
Source: Ulta

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.15–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.95%
Moisturizing
Persea gratissima oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil + 3 more
Works
What the product description says
“Avocado Oil, Grape Seed Oil, Blackberry Seed Oil, Chia Seed Oil, Orange Peel Flower Oil, Ylang Ylang Flower Oil, Vetiver Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil, Rosemary Leaf Extract Arona Berry for anti-aging properties, brightening & antioxidants to fight free radicals Jackfruit to help reduce signs of aging & improve skin texture Rambutan for moisturizing, increasing skin elasticity & reducing the appearance of fine lines Vitamin e for antioxidant properties to fight free radicals, moisturizing, soothing, & calming properties”
Source: Ulta

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: helianthus annuus seed oil, persea gratissima oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~22–33%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~8.1–12.2%
Salvia hispanica seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighChia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier~3.8–5.7%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.45–1.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.95%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.15–0.55%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.45–1.05%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.15–0.55%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
13 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Cananga odorata flower oil + 11 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.15–0.55%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~1.5–2.2%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis oilUsed as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivityHigh~1.1–1.6%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower oilPlant oil that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It contains volatile compouunds that are potential allergens and can be irritatingHigh~0.9–1.35%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.45–1.05%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.5%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.01–0.05%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~22–33%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~8.1–12.2%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Persea gratissima oil~22–33%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Vitis vinifera seed oil~8.1–12.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Rubus fruticosus seed oil~4.5–6.8%
Formula
Salvia hispanica seed oil~3.8–5.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Chia seed oil. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and might be helpful in repairing skin barrier

More about Salvia hispanica seed oil
Dimethyl isosorbide~2.8–4.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.15–0.55%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-blemishExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Cananga odorata flower oil~1.5–2.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Citrus aurantium amara peel oil~1.3–2%
Irritant · high
Citrus aurantium dulcis oil~1.1–1.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. It can be irritating and cause photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis oil
Chamomilla recutita flower oil~0.9–1.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Plant oil that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It contains volatile compouunds that are potential allergens and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower oil
Vetiveria zizanoides root oil~0.5–1.15%
Formula
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.45–1.05%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.45–1.1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Tocopherol~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Aronia melanocarpa fruit extract~0.35–0.8%
Formula
Artocarpus heterophyllus fruit extract~0.2–0.8%
Formula
Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Benzyl salicylate~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Eugenol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Farnesol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Geraniol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Linalool~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Limonene~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Ingredient list view

Persea gratissima oil, Vitis vinifera seed oil, Rubus fruticosus seed oil, Salvia hispanica seed oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Cananga odorata flower oil, Citrus aurantium amara peel oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis oil, Chamomilla recutita flower oil, Vetiveria zizanoides root oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Tocopherol, Aronia melanocarpa fruit extract, Artocarpus heterophyllus fruit extract, Nephelium lappaceum branch/fruit/leaf extract, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl salicylate, Eugenol, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool, Limonene

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Awake BeautyPower After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep OilYOUR PRODUCTJosh RosebrookActive Infusion Oilsk.inflash | repair shotBiopelleEmepelle Night Cream
Match—85%75%75%
Price—$68.00$30.98—
Shared key ingredients—3 of 71 of 71 of 7
Key difference—Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateAscorbyl TetraisopalmitateNiacinamide
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

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Awake Beauty Power After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep Oil
Awake BeautyPower After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep Oil

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