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Pestle & Mortar Superstar Night Oil
Pestle & Mortar

Pestle & Mortar Superstar Night Oil

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Powered by Retinol, the quick-absorbing treatment delivers anti-ageing properties to help minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, improve elasticity and repair dry, damaged skin around the clock.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.1%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1.4–2.1%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%
Evens skin tone
2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Improve skin tone and texture with Pestle & Mortar's Superstar Night Oil ; a lightweight, silky formula that utilises cold-pressed ingredients to deliver the perfect cocktail of vitamins, nutrients and omega fatty acids.”
Source: Lookfantastic US

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: retinyl palmitate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.1%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1.4–2.1%
Anti-blemish
Not advertised by the brand · 2 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: retinyl palmitate

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.1%
Retinyl palmitateKey activeEffect: MediumThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~1.4–2.1%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.45–1.05%
Daucus carota sativa seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect~1.3–2%
Calendula officinalis flower oilEffect: LowA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant~0.05–0.3%
Ribes nigrum seed oilEffect: LowAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~2.1–3.1%
Vitis vinifera seed oilEffect: LowA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~30–44%
Rosa canina seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes~3.3–4.9%
TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · 11 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support

This product can help soften the skin and reduce its moisture loss with emollients and occlusives: simmondsia chinensis seed oil, nigella sativa seed oil.

Keep in mind that this product does not contain effective ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. This is why an additional product with humectants like glycerin or hyaluronic acid can be helpful (apply it before this product for the best results).

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.45–1.05%
Nigella sativa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid~0.8–1.25%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~3.8–5.8%
Vitis vinifera seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties~30–44%
Ribes nigrum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.~2.1–3.1%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5.4–8.1%
Rosa canina seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes~3.3–4.9%
Punica granatum seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3.8%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.05–0.25%
Helianthus annuus seed oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.15–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinyl palmitate + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 11 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.01–0.1%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~1.4–2.1%est.
Calendula officinalis flower oilA plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritantHigh~0.05–0.3%est.
Vitis vinifera seed oilA great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant propertiesMedium~30–44%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5.4–8.1%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~3.8–5.8%est.
Rosa canina seed oilA plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishesMedium~3.3–4.9%est.
Ribes nigrum seed oilAn emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.Medium~2.1–3.1%est.
Nigella sativa seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acidMedium~0.8–1.25%est.
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionMedium~0.45–1.05%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Vitis vinifera seed oil~30–44%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient that can also have anti-oxidant properties

More about Vitis vinifera seed oil
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5.4–8.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Persea gratissima oil~3.8–5.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Rosa canina seed oil~3.3–4.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. It might have anti-oxidant properties. Might help reduce inflammation in skin and help against blemishes

More about Rosa canina seed oil
Punica granatum seed oil~2.5–3.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Punica granatum seed oil
Ribes nigrum seed oil~2.1–3.1%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An emollient. Can be helpful for restoring skin barrier function.

More about Ribes nigrum seed oil
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.1%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Retinyl palmitate~1.4–2.1%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Daucus carota sativa seed oil~1.3–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant oil that might help neutralize free radicals and have an anti-bacterial effect

More about Daucus carota sativa seed oil
Nigella sativa seed oil~0.8–1.25%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid

More about Nigella sativa seed oil
Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil~0.5–1.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil
Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil~0.45–1.05%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Tocopherol~0.15–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Calendula officinalis flower oil~0.05–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that might have an antibacterial and some antioxidant effect. Is a common allergen and irritant

More about Calendula officinalis flower oil
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.05–0.25%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Ingredient list view

Vitis vinifera seed oil, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Persea gratissima oil, Rosa canina seed oil, Punica granatum seed oil, Ribes nigrum seed oil, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Retinyl palmitate, Daucus carota sativa seed oil, Nigella sativa seed oil, Calophyllum inophyllum seed oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Dimethyl isosorbide, Tocopherol, Calendula officinalis flower oil, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Helianthus annuus seed oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Pestle & MortarSuperstar Night OilYOUR PRODUCTJosh RosebrookActive Infusion OilAwake BeautyPower After Hour 2% Retinol Complex Sleep OilVotaryIntense Night Oil - Rosehip and Retinoid
Match—89%84%84%
Price$89.90$80.00−$9.90$15.00−$74.90$113.70+$23.80
Shared key ingredients—4 of 104 of 104 of 10
Key difference—Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateSalvia Hispanica Seed OilApricot Kernel Oil
Irritancy High Medium High High
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 15 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Nutrient composition of rose (Rosa canina L.) seed and oilsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Characterization of Rosehip (Rosa canina L.) Seed and Seed Oiltandfonline.com
  3. 3
    Bioactive ingredients of rose hips (Rosa canina L) with special reference to antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties: in vitro studiesdovepress.com
  4. 4
    Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215 jaad.org
  5. 5
    Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheresscopus.com
  6. 6
    New Claims for Wild Carrot (Daucus carota subsp. carota) Essential Oilncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Pestle & Mortar Superstar Night Oil
Pestle & MortarSuperstar Night Oil
Buy at Lookfantastic US$104.00Amazon

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy at Lookfantastic US$104.00Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.