What's In My Jar
Payot Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin
Payot

Payot Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

Moisturizing
18 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.2%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~6.1–7.5%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.1–1.3%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.4–0.6%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4.1%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Synthetic beeswaxKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.5–1.8%
Cetyl palmitateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumAn emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability~1.3–1.5%
Royal jelly extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products~0.55–0.8%
Honey extractKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.65%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~2–2.5%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.65–0.95%
Behenyl alcohol· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient~1.8–2.2%
Olivine extractEffect: LowA mineral, magnesium iron silicate. It can help add minerals to the surface of the skin that might be helpful for its barrier function. It is claimed to be able to support collagen production but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking~0.25–0.5%
Hydrogenated polyisobutene· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: LowUsed to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin~2.5–3.1%
NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.35–0.6%
Chenopodium quinoa seed extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.65%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim
Moderate support

This product contains antioxidants (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateKey activeEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.3–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~3.3–4.1%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.3–0.55%
Panax ginseng root extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating~0.5–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
9 strong irritants: Retinyl palmitate, Parfum + 7 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 22 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.5–0.75%est.
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.3–0.55%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
CoumarinA fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehydeA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Alpha-isomethyl iononeA fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~6.1–7.5%est.
Royal jelly extractA compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee productsMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Honey extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.4–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.3–0.55%est.
Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.3–0.5%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
1,2-hexanediolA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymerUsed to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen), evenly disperse pigements and create a nice product consistencyMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~3.3–4.1%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~6.1–7.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Glycerin~4.2–5.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butyrospermum parkii butter~3.3–4.1%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Hydrogenated polyisobutene~2.5–3.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Hydrogenated polyisobutene
Cetyl alcohol~2–2.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Behenyl alcohol~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient

More about Behenyl alcohol
Synthetic beeswax~1.5–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Synthetic beeswax
Cetyl palmitate~1.3–1.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability

More about Cetyl palmitate
Dimethicone~1.1–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Peg-100 stearate~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Glyceryl stearate~0.65–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Royal jelly extract~0.55–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products

More about Royal jelly extract
Panax ginseng root extract~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating

More about Panax ginseng root extract
Chenopodium quinoa seed extract~0.45–0.65%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Chenopodium quinoa seed extract
Glutamylamidoethyl indole~0.45–0.7%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Glutamylamidoethyl indole
Honey extract~0.4–0.65%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Honey extract
Panthenol~0.4–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Niacinamide~0.35–0.6%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-blemishReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Retinyl palmitate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingExfoliation

Three steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect

More about Retinyl palmitate
Tocopheryl acetate~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Sesamum indicum oil unsaponifiables~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Sesamum indicum oil unsaponifiables
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.3–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Smithsonite extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Smithsonite extract
Olivine extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A mineral, magnesium iron silicate. It can help add minerals to the surface of the skin that might be helpful for its barrier function. It is claimed to be able to support collagen production but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking

More about Olivine extract
Propylene glycol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Caprylyl glycol~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
1,2-hexanediol~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about 1,2-hexanediol
Tromethamine~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust pH in products

More about Tromethamine
Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen), evenly disperse pigements and create a nice product consistency

More about Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer
Disodium edta~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Parfum~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Coumarin~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely skin allergen and can be irritating

More about Coumarin
Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde
Citronellol~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol
Hydroxycitronellal~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritating

More about Hydroxycitronellal
Linalool~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Linalool
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Alpha-isomethyl ionone
Geraniol~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol
Phenoxyethanol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Cetyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Synthetic beeswax, Cetyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Peg-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Royal jelly extract, Panax ginseng root extract, Chenopodium quinoa seed extract, Glutamylamidoethyl indole, Honey extract, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sesamum indicum oil unsaponifiables, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium hyaluronate, Smithsonite extract, Olivine extract, Propylene glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Tromethamine, Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Parfum, Coumarin, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PayotNourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry SkinYOUR PRODUCTMad Hippiehttps://madhippie.com/products/eye-creamNEOGEN X SUR.MEDICV.Biome Advanced Eye CreamOlayFace Moisturizer
Match—83%83%79%
Price$56.85—$25.16−$31.69$26.99−$29.86
Shared key ingredients—6 of 105 of 104 of 10
Key difference—Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5Copper Tripeptide-1Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Irritancy High Medium Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, "Payot - Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin" works well for moisturizing the skin. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, honey extract and royal jelly extract) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.30% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 110.00A$ up to 149.62A$ in Australia and for 43.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 26 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmeticssemanticscholar.org
  3. 3
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  4. 4
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  5. 5
    Ginseng in Dermatology: A Reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skinncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Payot Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin
PayotNourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin
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Find on Amazon

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.