Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
Based on the ingredients included, "Payot - Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin" works well for moisturizing the skin. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (panthenol, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, honey extract and royal jelly extract) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone, cetyl alcohol and cetyl palmitate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer includes a form of retinoids (vitamin A) - retinyl palmitate 0.30% - 0.55%, but this type of vitamin A is not very effective. It could in theory help with fine lines and wrinkles, but the effect is most likely minimal.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails from 110.00A$ up to 149.62A$ in Australia and for 43.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Nourishing and Restructuring Cream for Dry Skin
Source: From product name
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin and is used to improve product texture and stability
A compound secreted by bees. Might be able to attract water to the top layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to honey and bee products
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
A mineral, magnesium iron silicate. It can help add minerals to the surface of the skin that might be helpful for its barrier function. It is claimed to be able to support collagen production but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (sodium ascorbyl phosphate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Cetyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Synthetic beeswax, Cetyl palmitate, Dimethicone, Peg-100 stearate, Glyceryl stearate, Royal jelly extract, Panax ginseng root extract, Chenopodium quinoa seed extract, Glutamylamidoethyl indole, Honey extract, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Retinyl palmitate, Tocopheryl acetate, Sesamum indicum oil unsaponifiables, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium hyaluronate, Smithsonite extract, Olivine extract, Propylene glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Tromethamine, Acrylates/vinyl isodecanoate crosspolymer, Disodium edta, Parfum, Coumarin, Hydroxyisohexyl 3-cyclohexene carboxaldehyde, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Alpha-isomethyl ionone, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Ginseng in Dermatology: A Review
- Antiaging effects of the mixture of Panax ginseng and Crataegus pinnatifida in human dermal fibroblasts and healthy human skin
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgaris
- Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsions
- Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmetics
- Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphate
- Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatment
- Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studies
- Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trial
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Cross-Linked Alkyl Acrylates as Used in Cosmetics
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts