Payot Hydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing Care

Payot Hydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing Care

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Urea, Glycerin + 13 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Hydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing Care”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: diglycerin, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, propylheptyl caprylate.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UreaHero· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.15–0.6%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.8–7.3%
Propylheptyl caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1.8–2.6%
DiglycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~1.4–2.2%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.4–2%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.15–0.65%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.35%
Alteromonas ferment extractKey activeEffect: HighA marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking~0.05–0.2%
SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.3%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~3.6–5.4%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.7%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.1–0.45%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.1–0.4%
AlginEffect: LowUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.35%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.55%
Anti-aging
Creatine, Serine + 1 more
May help
What the product description says
“It will help your skin to find and maintain its natural level of moisturizing and to prevent from the appearance of the first signs of skin ageing.”
Source: Cocoon Center

This product contains creatine, serine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.1–0.4%
SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.05–0.3%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.55%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Creatine, Tocopheryl acetate + 3 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (creatine) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.1–0.4%
Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.6%
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractEffect: Low, below effective doseA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound~0.05–0.2%
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateUnder-dosedA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)~0.15–0.55%
Ficus carica fruit extractUnder-dosedA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect~0.05–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Alcohol, Parfum + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~2.7–4%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~1–1.5%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.7%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.1–0.35%est.
Chrysanthellum indicum extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Ci 19140A yellow dyeHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
ChlorphenesinA preservativeMedium~0.16–0.32%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.6%est.
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitateA vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)Medium~0.15–0.55%est.
O-cymen-5-olA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.1%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Ficus carica fruit extractA plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effectMedium~0.05–0.3%est.
Maris salUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Sea saltUsed to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentrationMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Citrullus lanatus fruit extractA plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compoundMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Ci 42090A colorant (dye)Medium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
AlginUsed to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin3/5~0.1–0.35%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.8–7.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~3.6–5.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Alcohol~2.7–4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate~2.1–3.2%
Formula
Propylheptyl caprylate~1.8–2.6%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Propylheptyl caprylate
Diglycerin~1.4–2.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Diglycerin
Dimethicone~1.4–2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Parfum~1–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Polyacrylate-13~0.8–1.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the product formulation

More about Polyacrylate-13
Chlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Chlorphenesin
Polyisobutene~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to improve the product consistency

More about Polyisobutene
Propylene glycol~0.2–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Trehalose~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Urea~0.15–0.6%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingExfoliation

Naturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations

More about Urea
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate
Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizing

A vitamin C derivative. Studies show that is might be effective in reducing hyperpigmentation, but there are no studies confirming that it is effectively converted into the bioavailable form of Vitamin C in skin. It is not clear how this derivative compares in effectiveness to the topical application of bioavailable form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)

More about Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate
Creatine~0.1–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingAnti-oxidation

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
O-cymen-5-ol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about O-cymen-5-ol
Polysorbate 20~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20
Pentylene glycol~0.1–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Serine~0.05–0.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine
Sorbitan isostearate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan isostearate
Sodium hydroxide~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Phenoxyethanol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium carrageenan~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize the product formulation

More about Sodium carrageenan
Algin~0.1–0.35%
Comedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to thicken product formulation. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Algin
Caprylyl glycol~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Disodium phosphate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation

More about Disodium phosphate
Glyceryl polyacrylate~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps to create a nice product texture and spread the product more easily on the skin

More about Glyceryl polyacrylate
Pullulan~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.35%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Ficus carica fruit extract~0.05–0.3%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals. The concentrations typically used in cosmetics are too small to have an effect

More about Ficus carica fruit extract
Potassium phosphate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate the pH of the formulation

More about Potassium phosphate
Maris sal~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Maris sal
Sea salt~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Exfoliation

Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration

More about Sea salt
Citrullus lanatus fruit extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an antioxidant compound

More about Citrullus lanatus fruit extract
Chrysanthellum indicum extract~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance

More about Chrysanthellum indicum extract
Alteromonas ferment extract~0.05–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A marine extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It is claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties but research is lacking

More about Alteromonas ferment extract
Ci 42090~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A colorant (dye)

More about Ci 42090
Ci 19140~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A yellow dye

More about Ci 19140
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Alcohol, Trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate, Propylheptyl caprylate, Diglycerin, Dimethicone, Parfum, Polyacrylate-13, Chlorphenesin, Polyisobutene, Propylene glycol, Trehalose, Urea, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Tocopheryl acetate, Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, Creatine, O-cymen-5-ol, Polysorbate 20, Pentylene glycol, Serine, Sorbitan isostearate, Sodium hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium carrageenan, Algin, Caprylyl glycol, Disodium phosphate, Glyceryl polyacrylate, Pullulan, Sodium hyaluronate, Ficus carica fruit extract, Potassium phosphate, Maris sal, Sea salt, Citrullus lanatus fruit extract, Chrysanthellum indicum extract, Alteromonas ferment extract, Ci 42090, Ci 19140

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PayotHydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing CareYOUR PRODUCTMuradMoisturisers Nutrient-Charged Water GelLab Series Skincare for MenAge Rescue+ Water-Charged Gel CreamLab Series For MenAge Rescue Water-Charged Gel Cream
Match—63%63%63%
Price—$57.98$62.30—
Shared key ingredients—7 of 116 of 116 of 11
Key difference—NiacinamideAcetyl GlucosaminePalmitoyl Oligopeptide
Irritancy High Medium High Medium
Drying alcohol Contains drying alcohol ———
View product Shop Shop Shop

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Product summary

"Payot - Hydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing Care" has a good moisturizing formula. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Urea, diglycerin, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (dimethicone, propylheptyl caprylate, caprylyl glycol and pentylene glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
  6. 6
    Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
Payot Hydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing Care
PayotHydra 24+ Gel-Crème Sorbet Plumping Moisturizing Care

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