Essential Glow Moisturiser SPF 30

Name: Paula's choice - Essential Glow Moisturiser SPF 30
Brand: Paula's choice

SPF 30Efficacy 90/100·Medium irritancy ·2 UV filters· In 1 routines

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Based on the ingredients included, we believe that "Paula's choice - Essential Glow Moisturiser SPF 30" can offer reliable sun protection.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredients included, we believe that "Paula's choice - Essential Glow Moisturiser SPF 30" can offer reliable sun protection. It can protect from both UVA and UVB rays. This is great news because not all sunscreens with SPF ratings give UVA protection. (UVA rays do not cause sunburn, but still damage our skin and lead to early aging).

Its formula is also hydrating, so you might not need an additional moistruizer during the day. Like all broad-spectrum sunscreens, this product has an anti-aging benefit.

Sunscreen filters

This moisturizer is a mineral sunscreen. It uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide for sun protection. Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide almost never irritate even the most sensitive skin and eyes, but can leave a white cast.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 32.00£ up to 47.50£ in the United Kingdom and for 41.50$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sun protection

This product offers a good level of protection against both UVB and UVA rays.

It is a mineral sunscreen. In other words, it contains non-organic UV filters. It will probably not sting your eyes but might leave a white cast.

This product can be considered "reef safe" because it does not contain the UV filters (oxybenzone and octinoxate) that can be harmful to coral reefs when present in the water in high concentrations.

UV spectrum

UVB290 nmUVA II320 nmUVA I340 nmVisible400 nm+

Titanium Dioxide

Zinc Oxide

FilterCoverageWhat it doesEst. amount

Titanium Dioxide Mineral UVBUVA2 Photo-stable Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin~4–4.9%

Zinc Oxide Mineral UVBUVA+Visible Photo-stable A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant~5.3–6.5%

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Reef-safe

No oxybenzone or octinoxate — the two filters banned in Hawaii, Florida Keys and Aruba.

Product claims breakdown

Evens skin tone

3 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product offers broad spectrum sun protection. It means that it can prevent hyperpigmentation and help keep the skin tone even (sun damage is the main factor causing age spots, darkening of post-acne marks and other discolorations).

NIACINAMIDERole: Under-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.55–0.8%

ASCORBYL GLUCOSIDERole: Under-dosedA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.55–0.85%

RESVERATROLRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.6–0.9%

Moisturizing

9 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, butylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, argania spinosa kernel oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid, tetrapeptide-30

TETRAPEPTIDE-30Role: Key active~0.65–0.95%

LINOLEIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.75–1.1%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.9–3.6%

GLYCINE SOJA STEROLSRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the skin~0.5–0.75%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.7%

ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OILRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.7–1.05%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Under-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.65%

DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~1.2–1.4%

Anti-aging

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product can help prevent early signs of skin aging because it offers a good level of broad spectrum sun protection. Sun damage is the main cause of premature skin aging, and protecting your skin from the sun is the best anti-aging strategy.

These ingredients in the product might also be helpful for reducing and preventing fine lines, wrinkles, and skin elasticity, even though there is no conclusive evidence for their effectiveness: resveratrol, tetrapeptide-30.

TETRAPEPTIDE-30Role: Key active~0.65–0.95%

RESVERATROLRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.6–0.9%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.7%

Anti-oxidation

RESVERATROL at ~0.6–0.9% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (resveratrol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

RESVERATROLRole: Key activeHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone~0.6–0.9%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.5–0.7%

ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OILRole: Key activeAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.7–1.05%

BISABOLOLRole: Key activeAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.45–0.7%

Irritancy

20 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Actinidia chinensis fruit extractA plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant properties, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lackingHigh~0.75–1.1%est.

PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~1.4–1.7%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsLow~0.6–0.9%est.

Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesLow~0.7–1.05%est.

ResveratrolHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin toneLow~0.6–0.9%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsLow~0.55–0.85%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.5–0.75%est.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphateA derivative of vitamin C that is more stable, but less bioavailable than the pure form of vitamin C. It does not penetrate the skin well, but has been shown to convert to pure vitamin C once in skin. It can be helpful in stimulating collagen production and lightening the skin tone, but the required concentration is likely to be very highLow~0.5–0.75%est.

XanthophyllsA yellow colorantLow~0.45–0.7%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~0.35–0.65%est.

Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Acrylates copolymerUsed to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen) and create a thicker product consistencyLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Polyhydroxystearic acidUsed to create a thicker product consistency and stabilize the formulationLow~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureLow~0.25–0.45%est.

PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesLow~0.25–0.45%est.

Aluminum stearateUsed to help evenly disperse other ingredients (for example, pigment) in a formulationLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.15–0.25%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.1–0.15%est.

Comedogenic

Cetearyl alcohol ~1.6–2% — rinse-off or low %

Low risk

We flag 2 ingredients with a low-to-moderate comedogenic rating — at these concentrations, or in rinse-off use, they're unlikely to clog pores for most skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~1.6–2%est.

Ceteareth-20Helps oil and water mix together. Has some emollient propertiesMed~0.25–0.45%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels