Paula's choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment

Paula's choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment

Efficacy100/100IrritancyLow

Works for

Anti-blemish
Niacinamide, Epigallocatechin gallate + 2 more
Works well
What the product description says
“20% Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): minimizes enlarged pores, improves uneven skin tone and promotes a smooth, blemish-free complexion”
Source: Dermstore

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: epigallocatechin gallate

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.8–7.2%
Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.4–0.9%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.8%
AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.75%
Moisturizing
Niacinamide, Acetyl glucosamine + 9 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Sol de Janeiro bring you a nourishing, moisture-rich cream designed to boost the skin’s elasticity.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": glycerin, butylene glycol.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.8–7.2%
Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.6–2.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~2.7–4%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.7–5.5%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2–3%
Portulaca oleracea extract· HumectantEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.6–1.4%
Epigallocatechin gallateEffect: LowA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.4–0.9%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.8%
LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.75%
AllantoinUnder-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.2–0.75%
PanthenolUnder-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.15–0.55%
Anti-aging
Niacinamide, Acetyl glucosamine + 3 more
Works well
What the product description says
“This serum uses a safe and effective concentration of niacinamide (vitamin B3), specifically chosen to help normalise pore function, working to improve the look of sagging skin and defending against damage from harmful UV light.”
Source: SpaceNK

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ascorbyl glucoside, epigallocatechin gallate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.8–7.2%
Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.6–2.4%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.5–2.2%
Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.4–0.9%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.8%
Evens skin tone
Niacinamide, Acetyl glucosamine + 4 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Adored for its spectrum of benefits, niacinamide - a.k.a. vitamin B3 is responsible for minimising the visibility of pores, improving uneven skin tone, fortifying barrier function, diminishing dullness and softening fine lines and wrinkles as well as reducing the redness that follows a blemish *takes a much-need breath*.”
Source: Cultbeauty

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: acetyl glucosamine, niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ascorbyl glucoside, epigallocatechin gallate, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.8–7.2%
Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~1.6–2.4%
Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.5–2.2%
Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.4–0.9%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~1.1–1.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.8%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Ascorbyl glucoside, Camellia japonica flower extract + 5 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (ascorbyl glucoside, camellia japonica flower extract, epigallocatechin gallate) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Ascorbyl glucosideKey activeEffect: MediumA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~1.5–2.2%
Camellia japonica flower extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.5–1.2%
Epigallocatechin gallateKey activeEffect: MediumA polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare~0.4–0.9%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~1.1–1.6%
Portulaca oleracea extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.6–1.4%
Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.35–0.85%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.35–0.8%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
8 flagged ingredients
Low risk
We flag 8 ingredients with irritancy potential; the product's overall irritancy is low. The table lists each ingredient's own rating.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Camellia japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.5–1.2%est.
PullulanCreates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effectHigh~0.2–0.75%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.7–5.5%est.
Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsMedium~1.5–2.2%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~1.1–1.6%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.6–1.4%est.
Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.35–0.85%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.15%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Niacinamide~4.8–7.2%
Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryReduces rednessAntibacterial

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide
Pentylene glycol~3.7–5.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Glycerin~2.7–4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Butylene glycol~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Acetyl glucosamine~1.6–2.4%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine
Ascorbyl glucoside~1.5–2.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin tone

A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products

More about Ascorbyl glucoside
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~1.1–1.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Spiraea ulmaria extract~0.9–1.35%
Formula
Portulaca oleracea extract~0.6–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Portulaca oleracea extract
Camellia japonica flower extract~0.5–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Camellia japonica flower extract
Epigallocatechin gallate~0.4–0.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizing

A polyphenol found in tea. This particular compound abbreviated EGCG is the most powerful antioxidant among those extracted from tea (usually green tea). Unfortunately, EGCG is unstable, requires a low pH (below 4) to prevent quick degradation, and does not penetrate the skin very well. This is why the full anti-oxidant effect of EGCG is typically not realized when it is added to topical skincare

More about Epigallocatechin gallate
Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.35–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.35–0.8%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAntibacterialAnti-agingEvens skin toneMoisturizingAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Allantoin~0.2–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin
Lecithin~0.3–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin
Pullulan~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Mattifying

Creates a thin drying film on the skin resulting in a short-term tightening effect

More about Pullulan
Panthenol~0.15–0.55%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Silica~0.2–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sclerotium gum~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Propanediol~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Sodium phytate~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium phytate
Sodium hydroxide~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Phenoxyethanol~0.05–0.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Ingredient list view

Water, Niacinamide, Pentylene glycol, Glycerin, Butylene glycol, Acetyl glucosamine, Ascorbyl glucoside, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Spiraea ulmaria extract, Portulaca oleracea extract, Camellia japonica flower extract, Epigallocatechin gallate, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Allantoin, Lecithin, Pullulan, Panthenol, Silica, Xanthan gum, Sclerotium gum, Propanediol, Sodium phytate, Sodium hydroxide, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol

Compare prices

Retailers ranked by price — lowest first.

Dermstore0.67 fl. oz
$55.00
Buy
Paula's Choice US
$55.00
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Amazon USPrice as of 11/9 03:11 GMT
$59.00
Buy
SpaceNK US
$61.00
Buy

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Paula's choiceNiacinamide 20% TreatmentYOUR PRODUCTYEOUTHNiacinamide SerumskinmadeNiacinamide + Allantoin serumAusceuticalsVitamin B Serum
Match—87%85%85%
Price$55.00$9.99−$45.01$18.30−$36.70$30.92−$24.08
Shared key ingredients—5 of 108 of 105 of 10
Key difference—Sodium HyaluronateBakuchiolTea Extract
Irritancy Low Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Product summary

"Paula's choice - Niacinamide 20% Treatment" is effective for: Anti-aging, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone and Anti-blemish

Ingredient callouts

  • A good concentration of Niacinamide (4.10% - 6.10%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
  • Humectants (panthenol 0.30% - 0.75%, acetyl glucosamine 1.60% - 2.50% and glycerin 2.10% - 3.20%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails from 44.20£ up to 54.00£ in the United Kingdom, from 55.00$ up to 61.00$ in the United States and for 72.00CA$ in Canada.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 19 studies and safety reviews.

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  6. 6
Paula's choice Niacinamide 20% Treatment
Paula's choiceNiacinamide 20% Treatment

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.