What's In My Jar
PatricksUniversal AM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER
PatricksUniversal

PatricksUniversal AM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing
Ceramide np, Phytosphingosine + 28 more
Works well
What the product description says
“AM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER”
Source: Patricks

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, betaine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, simmondsia chinensis seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide eop, ceramide np, panthenol, phytosphingosine

Ceramide npHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.3–0.55%
PhytosphingosineHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect~0.3–0.55%
Ceramide apHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.25–0.5%
PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%
Ceramide eopHero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.2%
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.~5.6–6.9%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~3.8–4.6%
SqualaneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.~2.4–2.9%
DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2–2.4%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.4–1.8%
XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.65–1%
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients~0.5–0.7%
BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.45–0.65%
TrehaloseKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.35–0.65%
PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.55%
Phytosteryl macadamiateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.55%
SqualeneKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.3–0.55%
CholesterolKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.3–0.5%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: HighA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.45%
Echium plantagineum seed oilKey activeEffect: HighA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin~0.25–0.45%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.15–0.3%
Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~3.1–3.7%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.6–0.9%
Polysilicone-11Effect: LowA silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel~0.35–0.6%
Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.6%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.5%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterUnder-dosedA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
Anti-aging
Creatine, Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate + 8 more
May help
What the product description says
“AM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER”
Source: Patricks

This product contains creatine, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.45%
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetateKey activeEffect: MediumA peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid~0.25–0.45%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.5%
TetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethaneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
TetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethaneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
TetrahydrodiferuloylmethaneEffect: LowAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.35%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.15–0.25%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Squalene + 10 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (camellia sinensis leaf extract, creatine, squalene, tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.3–0.5%
SqualeneKey activeEffect: MediumAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast~0.3–0.55%
TetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethaneKey activeEffect: MediumAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
TetrahydrodiferuloylmethaneKey activeEffect: MediumAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
TetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethaneKey activeEffect: MediumAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating~0.25–0.5%
CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.25–0.45%
Zingiber officinale root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking~0.2–0.35%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: Low, below effective doseA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~0.3–0.55%
BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.35%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.25–0.5%
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.15–0.25%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Parfum, Zingiber officinale root extract + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 23 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
TetrahydrodiferuloylmethaneAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.25–0.45%est.
TetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethaneAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
TetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethaneAn anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritatingHigh~0.25–0.5%est.
Zingiber officinale root extractA plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lackingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
Simmondsia chinensis seed oilSoftens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.Medium~5.6–6.9%est.
Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~3.1–3.7%est.
Hexylene glycolHelps create a more spreadable product textureMedium~0.8–1.15%est.
Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsMedium~0.5–0.7%est.
Polysorbate 60Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymerA gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finishMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Echium plantagineum seed oilA plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skinMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Sodium lauroyl lactylateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.15–0.25%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.15–0.3%est.
Comedogenic
5 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
5 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~3.8–4.6%est.
SqualeneAn oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast2/5~0.3–0.55%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.15–0.3%est.
Alternatives
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Simmondsia chinensis seed oil~5.6–6.9%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.

More about Simmondsia chinensis seed oil
Cetearyl alcohol~3.8–4.6%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Pentylene glycol~3.1–3.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol
Squalane~2.4–2.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.

More about Squalane
Dimethicone~2–2.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone
Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters~1.6–1.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters
Glycerin~1.4–1.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Hydrolyzed yeast protein~1.1–1.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Hydrolyzed yeast protein
Hexylene glycol~0.8–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a more spreadable product texture

More about Hexylene glycol
Xylitylglucoside~0.65–1%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Glyceryl stearate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Peg-100 stearate~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture

More about Peg-100 stearate
Trehalose~0.45–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Trehalose
Betaine~0.45–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine
Macadamia ternifolia seed oil~0.5–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Plant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredients

More about Macadamia ternifolia seed oil
Phenoxyethanol~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Anhydroxylitol~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Butylene glycol~0.3–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol
Polysilicone-11~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MattifyingMoisturizing

A silicone that forms a light film on the skin surface helping to bind water and temporarily absorb oils creating a matt and powdery feel

More about Polysilicone-11
Polysorbate 60~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 60
Pyrus malus fruit water~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Pyrus malus fruit water
Carrageenan~0.3–0.55%
Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan
Propanediol~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Butyrospermum parkii butter~0.3–0.55%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Squalene~0.3–0.55%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast

More about Squalene
Xylitol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Ceteth-10 phosphate~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Ceteth-10 phosphate
Dicetyl phosphate~0.3–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Dicetyl phosphate
Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A gelling agent that thickens the product consistency and leaves the skin with a velvety finish

More about Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Echium plantagineum seed oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that because of its high content of alpha-linolenic acid help support skin barrier function and moisturize the skin

More about Echium plantagineum seed oil
Creatine~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine
Bisabolol~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol
Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

More about Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane
Parfum~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Disodium edta~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Stabilizes the product formulation

More about Disodium edta
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Phytosteryl macadamiate~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Phytosteryl macadamiate
Panthenol~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid
Sodium lauroyl lactylate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Sodium lauroyl lactylate
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-blemishEvens skin toneMoisturizing

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Orobanche rapum extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Orobanche rapum extract
Tocopherol~0.25–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate~0.25–0.45%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-aging

A peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid

More about Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate
Phytosterols~0.3–0.55%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols
Sodium hyaluronate~0.25–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

More about Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Coffea arabica fruit extract~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Coffea arabica fruit extract
Ceramide np~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide np
Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane~0.25–0.5%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating

More about Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane
Zingiber officinale root extract~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that can contain an irritating essential oil. Might have some anti-oxidant effect, but evidence is lacking

More about Zingiber officinale root extract
Magnesium chloride~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps thicken the product formulation

More about Magnesium chloride
Ceramide ap~0.25–0.5%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide ap
Phytosphingosine~0.3–0.55%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-blemishAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect

More about Phytosphingosine
Cholesterol~0.3–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that is naturally found in skin

More about Cholesterol
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate
Carbomer~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer
Sodium carbonate~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps regulate product's pH

More about Sodium carbonate
Potassium sorbate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Citric acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.15–0.25%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationEvens skin toneAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate
Glycine soja oil~0.15–0.3%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Ceramide eop~0.1–0.2%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingReduces irritationAnti-inflammatory

A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin

More about Ceramide eop
Benzyl benzoate~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Cetearyl alcohol, Pentylene glycol, Squalane, Dimethicone, Jojoba oil/macadamia seed oil esters, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed yeast protein, Hexylene glycol, Xylitylglucoside, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Trehalose, Betaine, Macadamia ternifolia seed oil, Phenoxyethanol, Anhydroxylitol, Butylene glycol, Polysilicone-11, Polysorbate 60, Pyrus malus fruit water, Carrageenan, Propanediol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Squalene, Xylitol, Ceteth-10 phosphate, Dicetyl phosphate, Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, Xanthan gum, Sodium benzoate, Echium plantagineum seed oil, Creatine, Bisabolol, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium edta, Sodium hydroxide, Phytosteryl macadamiate, Panthenol, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Sodium lauroyl lactylate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Orobanche rapum extract, Tocopherol, Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, Phytosterols, Sodium hyaluronate, Tetrahydrodemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Coffea arabica fruit extract, Ceramide np, Tetrahydrobisdemethoxydiferuloylmethane, Zingiber officinale root extract, Magnesium chloride, Ceramide ap, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Ascorbyl palmitate, Carbomer, Sodium carbonate, Potassium sorbate, Citric acid, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Glycine soja oil, Ceramide eop, Benzyl benzoate

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
PatricksUniversalAM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISERYOUR PRODUCTPatricksAM1 Anti-Aging Moisturiser Normal to Dry SkinDr Sam'sFlawless Moisturiser IntenseAlpha-HFirming Collagen Repair Cream
Match—72%58%57%
Price—$113.63$48.24$66.00
Shared key ingredients—28 of 3010 of 3012 of 30
Key difference——MadecassosideMadecassic Acid
Irritancy High High Medium Medium
Drying alcohol————
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  • differs
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More alternatives: Bielenda Beauty Molecules, B5, Molecular synbiotic ultra-moisturizing creamDecode Крем увлажняющий для лица, с церамидами

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Product summary

"PatricksUniversal - AM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Anhydroxylitol, betaine, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and trehalose in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide eop, ceramide np, phytosphingosine, cholesterol and phytosterols in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

  • As a plus, this moisturizer also contains Ceramides (ceramide eop 0.10% - 0.15%, phytosphingosine 0.20% - 0.40%, ceramide ap 0.20% - 0.35% and ceramide np 0.25% - 0.45%). Ceramides are a type of lipids that our skin produces itself. They are a building block of the skin's barrier. Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or extracted from plants. They work well for softening the skin surface and "patch holes" in the skin's barrier.
This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, vitamin e and butyrospermum parkii butter

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 10.99CA$ in Canada, for 17.60A$ in Australia, for 19.99$ in the United States and for 19.90£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 28 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
  2. 2
    Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
  3. 3
    Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4
    Fatty acids profile of oil from nine varieties of Macadamia nuttandfonline.com
  5. 5
    Squalene and its potential clinical useseuropepmc.org
  6. 6
    Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology mdpi.com
PatricksUniversal AM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER
PatricksUniversalAM1 | ANTI-AGING MOISTURISER
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