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Pacifica Beauty Wake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Serum
Pacifica Beauty

Pacifica Beauty Wake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Serum

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-aging
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Melatonin + 1 more
Works well
What the product description says
“Defy the appearence of aging with this little overachiever.”
Source: Supderdrug

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
MelatoninEffect: LowA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~0.4–0.95%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.75%
Moisturizing
Side benefit the brand mentions · Linoleic acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil + 12 more
Works well
What the product description says
“More Product Information”
Source: Supderdrug

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, sodium hyaluronate.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, helianthus annuus extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: linoleic acid

Linoleic acidHero· EmollientEffect: HighAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.9%
Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~3.6–5.5%
Ganoderma lucidum extractKey activeEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.8–1.2%
Chenopodium quinoa seed extractKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.4–0.95%
Helianthus annuus extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.85%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.35–0.8%
PhytosterolsKey active· EmollientEffect: HighLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function~0.3–0.7%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.15–0.7%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.15–0.65%
Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.1–0.5%
Trametes versicolor extract· HumectantEffect: LowA mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare products~0.5–1.15%
Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.05–0.25%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.75%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.15–0.65%
Evens skin tone
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Trametes versicolor extract
Works well

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: trametes versicolor extract.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Trametes versicolor extractEffect: LowA mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare products~0.5–1.15%
Anti-blemish
Side benefit · Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Linoleic acid + 1 more
Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: linoleic acid

Hydroxypinacolone retinoateHeroEffect: HighA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.~0.01–0.05%
Linoleic acidKey activeEffect: MediumAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.4–0.9%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractUnder-dosedCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.3–0.75%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Melatonin, Calendula officinalis flower extract + 2 more
May help

This product contains antioxidants (melatonin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

MelatoninKey activeEffect: MediumA compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare~0.4–0.95%
Calendula officinalis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating~1.2–1.7%
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractEffect: Low, below effective doseCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating~0.3–0.75%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.75%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
4 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Rosa centifolia flower extract + 2 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Hydroxypinacolone retinoateA derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.High~0.01–0.05%est.
Rosa centifolia flower extractContains essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~1.3–2%est.
Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~1.2–1.7%est.
Chamomilla recutita flower extractPlant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~1–1.5%est.
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractCan be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.75%est.
Ganoderma lucidum extractHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skinMedium~0.8–1.2%est.
Trametes versicolor extractA mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare productsMedium~0.5–1.15%est.
PhytosterolsLipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier functionMedium~0.3–0.7%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Acacia senegal gumHelps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product textureMedium~0.1–0.4%est.
Caprylhydroxamic acidA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.05–0.25%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.01–0.05%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~40–60%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.8–7.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~3.6–5.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Cetearyl olivate~2.3–3.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate
Sorbitan olivate~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate
Hydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.05%
Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliation

A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.

More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoate
Rosa centifolia flower extract~1.3–2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Contains essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Rosa centifolia flower extract
Calendula officinalis flower extract~1.2–1.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract
Chamomilla recutita flower extract~1–1.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatory

Plant extract that can have healing and anti-inflammatory properties. It is a potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Chamomilla recutita flower extract
Ganoderma lucidum extract~0.8–1.2%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Ganoderma lucidum extract
Trametes versicolor extract~0.5–1.15%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Evens skin toneMoisturizing

A mushroom extract that might have some skin-lightening and moisturizing properties, but solid research is lacking. It is unlikely to be effective in the concentration used in skincare products

More about Trametes versicolor extract
Chenopodium quinoa seed extract~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Chenopodium quinoa seed extract
Melatonin~0.4–0.95%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare

More about Melatonin
Oryza sativa bran extract~0.35–0.85%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to thicken the product consistency

More about Oryza sativa bran extract
Helianthus annuus extract~0.35–0.85%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Helianthus annuus extract
Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.3–0.75%
Under-dosedIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating

More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
Tocopherol~0.35–0.75%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Glycerin~0.35–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Linoleic acid~0.4–0.9%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingCleansingAnti-blemish

An excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores

More about Linoleic acid
Phytosterols~0.3–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Lipids that work as an emollient and can be helpful in repairing skin barrier function

More about Phytosterols
Phospholipids~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Jojoba esters~0.15–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.15–0.65%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Sodium hyaluronate~0.1–0.5%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate
Xanthan gum~0.1–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Acacia senegal gum~0.1–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps mask the small of other ingredients and improve the product texture

More about Acacia senegal gum
Sodium gluconate~0.1–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Dimethyl isosorbide~0.1–0.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin

More about Dimethyl isosorbide
Methylheptylglycerin~0.05–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Methylheptylglycerin
Caprylhydroxamic acid~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Caprylhydroxamic acid
Caprylyl glycol~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol
Citric acid~0.01–0.05%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Rosa centifolia flower extract, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Chamomilla recutita flower extract, Ganoderma lucidum extract, Trametes versicolor extract, Chenopodium quinoa seed extract, Melatonin, Oryza sativa bran extract, Helianthus annuus extract, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract, Tocopherol, Glycerin, Linoleic acid, Phytosterols, Phospholipids, Jojoba esters, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Sodium hyaluronate, Xanthan gum, Acacia senegal gum, Sodium gluconate, Dimethyl isosorbide, Methylheptylglycerin, Caprylhydroxamic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Citric acid

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$16.35
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Pacifica BeautyWake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid SerumYOUR PRODUCTMANSCAPEDFace Retinoid SerumDermalogicaAge Smart Multivitamin Power SerumStackedSkincareAdvanced Retinol Serum
Match—83%81%78%
Price$16.35$22.99+$6.64$70.00+$53.65$29.99+$13.64
Shared key ingredients—10 of 146 of 145 of 14
Key difference—Retinyl LinoleateRetinyl PalmitateNiacinamide
Irritancy High High High Medium
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Careonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  2. 2
    Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egyptjournals.lww.com
  3. 3
    Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  4. 4
    Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countriesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215 jaad.org
  6. 6
    Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheresscopus.com
Pacifica Beauty Wake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Serum
Pacifica BeautyWake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Serum
Buy on Amazon$16.35 · as of 11/14 12:01 GMT

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

Buy on Amazon$16.35 · as of 11/14 12:01 GMT

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.