Pacifica Beauty Wake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid Cream
Works for
2 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Anti-agingHydroxypinacolone retinoate, Melatonin + 1 moreStrong evidence
“Powerful combination of Granactive Retinoid, melatonin and mushrooms that works while you sleep to help combat signs of aging”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
MoisturizingChenopodium quinoa seed oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil + 8 moreGood evidence
“This light-as-a-pillow, nighttime moisturizer is packed with potent ingredients to help hydrate and repair skin while you sleep.”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: helianthus annuus seed oil, chenopodium quinoa seed oil.
Evens skin toneNot advertised by the brand · Hydroxypinacolone retinoateStrong evidence
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: hydroxypinacolone retinoate.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Anti-blemishNot advertised by the brand · Hydroxypinacolone retinoateStrong evidence
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: hydroxypinacolone retinoate. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Anti-oxidationNot advertised by the brand · Melatonin, Sambucus nigra flower extract + 2 moreModerate evidence
This product contains antioxidants (melatonin) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy6 strong irritants: Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Rosa damascena flower water + 4 more — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
Comedogenic1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale1 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~40–60%
Glyceryl stearate se~5–7.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
Used to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollient
More about Glyceryl stearate seGlycerin~3.6–5.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinHelianthus annuus seed oil~2.8–4.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilCoco-caprylate/caprate~2.1–3.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin without creating a greasy texture
More about Coco-caprylate/caprateCetyl esters~1.7–2.6%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften upper layer of the skin and can enhance penetration of other ingredients into the upper layer of the skin
More about Cetyl estersHydroxypinacolone retinoate~0.01–0.05%
- Irritation risk
- High
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
More about Hydroxypinacolone retinoateInonotus obliquus extract~1.3–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Melatonin~1–1.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A compound that can regulate sleep cycles in humans and animals. When used in cosmetics, comes from plant sources. It can work as anti-oxidant in skin when applied topically in skincare
More about MelatoninChenopodium quinoa seed oil~0.9–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A plant oil that contains a high percentage of linoleic acid. It softens the upper layer of the skin and can help strengthen the skin barrier
More about Chenopodium quinoa seed oilRosa damascena flower water~0.5–1.2%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used to add a nice rose smell to the product. Might help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and have some anti-oxidant effect. Can be irritating
More about Rosa damascena flower waterCitrus aurantium amara flower extract~0.4–1%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used as a fragrance for its citrus smell. Can be irritating
More about Citrus aurantium amara flower extractJasminum officinale flower extract~0.35–0.85%
Lavandula angustifolia flower extract~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- High
Essential oil that can be irritating
More about Lavandula angustifolia flower extractRose extract~0.3–0.75%
Paeonia officinalis flower extract~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Prunus serrulata flower extract~0.2–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Sambucus nigra flower extract~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- High
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
More about Sambucus nigra flower extractRosa damascena flower oil~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
More about Rosa damascena flower oilTocopherol~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolCaprylic/capric triglyceride~0.15–0.65%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideDimethyl isosorbide~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to dissolve other ingredients in a product and can enhance their ability to penetrate the skin
More about Dimethyl isosorbideSclerotium gum~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions
More about Sclerotium gumPotassium sorbate~0.1–0.3%
Sodium benzoate~0.05–0.3%
Citric acid~0.05–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
More about Citric acidPhenoxyethanol~0.05–0.25%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolEthylhexylglycerin~0.05–0.15%
Ingredient list view
Water, Glyceryl stearate se, Glycerin, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Cetyl esters, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Inonotus obliquus extract, Melatonin, Chenopodium quinoa seed oil, Rosa damascena flower water, Citrus aurantium amara flower extract, Jasminum officinale flower extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower extract, Rose extract, Paeonia officinalis flower extract, Prunus serrulata flower extract, Sambucus nigra flower extract, Rosa damascena flower oil, Tocopherol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Dimethyl isosorbide, Sclerotium gum, Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Pacifica BeautyWake Up Beautiful Overnight Retinoid CreamYOUR PRODUCT | Seriøst Bedre HudA-vitamincremen | Peter Thomas RothGreen Releaf Therapeutic Sleep Cream | BiopelleEmepelle Night Cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 93% | 91% | 90% |
| Price | $18.87 | — | $88.00+$69.13 | — |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 4 of 7 | 5 of 7 | 2 of 7 |
| Key difference | — | Niacinamide | Gluconolactone | Niacinamide |
| Irritancy | High | Medium | Medium | Low |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
- 5
- 6Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
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