PRODUCT REVIEW
Hickap Bedtime Magic Repairing Night Cream
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Product summary
What can the product work for?
Anti-aging
bakuchiol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
resveratrol
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
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Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
Bakuchiol is a biobased and 100% vegan form of retinol that helps increase the collagen production, which contributes to stronger, smoother and more even skin.
bakuchiol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
resveratrol
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Let us fix you while you snooze. Hickap’s intensely moisturizing night treatment contains the super-efficient retinol complex Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, often referred to as the next generation of vitamin A.
sodium hyaluronate
0.45% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
squalene
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An oil that is naturally part of skin sebum that helps to soften its upper layer, reduce water loss and neutralize free radicals. It might be comedogenic. Avoid applying large concentrations (or pure oil) before sun exposure as oxidized squalene can clog pores and lead to skin irritation. Today squalene is mostly derived from vegetable oils or synthetized by yeast
glycosphingolipids
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of lipids naturally present in skin. They can be converted to ceramides in skin
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Anti-blemish
bakuchiol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Anti-oxidation
ubiquinone
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Coenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen
bakuchiol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
resveratrol
0.5% -
0.7%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, as well as even out the skin tone
Show more
Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
100/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
parfum
0.1% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
3.2% -
3.9%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
glycine soja oil
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Show more
User reviews (0)
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
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MEDIUM
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HIGH
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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MEDIUM
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LOW
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
bakuchiol
0.5% -
0.75%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-aging,
Anti-inflammatory,
Evens skin tone
A plant extract that is, though different in chemical structure, acts similar to retinoids. First studies show that it can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin tone, reduce clogged pores and blemishes, and reduce inflammation. There is no conclusive evidence that bakuchiol is as effective as retinol however. The study that directly compared retinol with bakuchiol used bakuchiol applied twice daily compared to once per day for the retinol. According to this study, bakuchiol is less irritating than retinol. Bakuchiol is extracted from seeds of Babchi plant. Other parts of the plant contain coumarins that could cause allergic and irritant reactions. These compounds should be removed in the extraction process when bakuchiol is produced, but it is a good idea to be cautious and stay away from products that include the Babchi plant extracts other than purified bakuchiol to avoid irritation
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
Show more
Potential irritants
hydroxypinacolone retinoate
0.01% -
0.05%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging,
Anti-blemish,
Exfoliation
A derivative of the most potent form of vitamin A, retinoic acid. The ingredient can be sold under name Granactive Retinoid. Note that if a skincare brand discloses the concentration of Granactive Retinoid in a product, the concentration refers to a diluted form of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: 1% of Granactive Retinoid corresponds to 0.1% of Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) is a unique derivative of retinoic acid because it can directly work in the skin and does not require additional conversion steps. According to studies done by the manufacturer on models of human skin (not real people), this derivative is more effective than other cosmetic versions of retinoids (such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate), and, at the same time, causes less irritation. It has been also demonstrated to be more stable than retinol which makes formulating with easier and increases the chances that a product with it will maintain its effectiveness after opening. The packaging should still ideally be air-tight. HPR is available over the counter in the EU, UK, Asia, Australia and New Zealand, but is only with a prescription in Canada.
parfum
0.1% -
0.25%
Irritation risk:
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
butyrospermum parkii butter
3.2% -
3.9%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-aging,
Anti-oxidation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
glycine soja oil
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: Medium
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
Show more
All ingredients
glycerin
4.7% -
5.7%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
caprylic/capric triglyceride
4.3% -
5.2%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
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Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Hydrogenated coco-glycerides, Tocopheryl acetate, Squalane, Sodium acrylates copolymer, Panthenol, Glyceryl stearate, Shea butter ethyl esters, Peg-100 stearate, Hydroxypinacolone retinoate, Bakuchiol, Resveratrol, Sodium hyaluronate, Alpha-glucan oligosaccharide, Caulerpa lentillifera extract, Glycosphingolipids, Glycolipids, Ubiquinone, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Glycine soja oil, Beta-sitosterol, Squalene, Dimethyl isosorbide, Pantolactone, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Acrylates Copolymer and 33 Related Cosmetic Ingredients
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- Antiaging effects of retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate on skin models. (2018). Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 79(3), AB44. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.05.215
- Treatment of mild to moderate acne with a fixed combination of hydroxypinacolone retinoate, retinol glycospheres and papain glycospheres
- Bakuchiol in the Management of Acne-affected Skin
- Prospective, randomized, double‐blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing
- A dermocosmetic containing bakuchiol, Ginkgo biloba extract and mannitol improves the efficacy of adapalene in patients with acne vulgaris: result from a controlled randomized trial
- Skin permeation and antioxidant efficacy of topically applied resveratrol
- Chemoprevention of skin cancer by grape constituent resveratrol: relevance to human disease?
- Evaluation of efficacy and tolerance of a nighttime topical antioxidant containing resveratrol, baicalin, and vitamin e for treatment of mild to moderately photodamaged skin
- Resveratrol as a Multifunctional Topical Hypopigmenting Agent
- Anti-aging properties of resveratrol: review and report of a potent new antioxidant skin care formulation
- Resveratrol: A Unique Antioxidant Offering a Multi-Mechanistic Approach for Treating Aging Skin
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics
- The Ameliorative Effect of β-sitosterol on DNCB-induced Atopic Dermatitis in Mice
- Squalene and its potential clinical uses
- Biological and Pharmacological Activities of Squalene and Related Compounds: Potential Uses in Cosmetic Dermatology
- Enhanced comedo formation in rabbit ear skin by squalene and oleic acid peroxides
- Activity enhancement of ferulic acid with dimethyl isosorbride in cosmetic compositions