Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
"Osmosis +Beauty - Renew - Advanced Retinal Serum" is effective for: Anti-inflammatory, Anti-aging, Moisturizing, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemish and Anti-oxidation
Ingredient callouts
- A good concentration of Niacinamide (4.70% - 7.00%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- This product contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinal 0.50% - 1.20%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily.
- Peptides (caprooyl tetrapeptide-3 1.10% - 1.60% and palmitoyl tripeptide-38 0.45% - 1.05%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that theynare helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiaticoside 1.30% - 2.00% The Centella Asiatica Actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
- Humectants (sodium hyaluronate 0.20% - 0.80%, glycerin 2.10% - 3.20% and dextran 0.10% - 0.35%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.
Price
The product retails for 106.00$ in the United States.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Works for
Does not work for
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Vitamin A. boosts cell renewal minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinklesLactic Acid.
Source: Dermstore
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinal, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-38.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinal. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
In addition, this product contains niacinamide. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, thioctic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A plant extract that might contain antioxidants
A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can contain volalite oils and be irritating
A berry extract that can have some anti-oxidant properties. It helps to preserve product formulations and improve their smell. It can be irritating
Evens skin tone
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinal.
In addition, this product contains niacinamide. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
One step removed from the biologically active in skin form of vitamin A. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinal is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. Concentrations of 0.05% and 0.1% are shown to be effective. It can, however, be irritating
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
stimulate collagen production and plump wrinklesKey Benefits.
Source: Dermstore
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
dextran, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, pentylene glycol.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, niacinamide, palmitoyl tripeptide-38
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
Used to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skin
Exfoliation
What does the product description say?
an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that gently exfoliates revealing healthier-looking skinPeptides.
Source: Dermstore
This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.
An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Exfoliation |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 66/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Niacinamide, Phosphatidylcholine, Pentylene glycol, Glycerin, Cyclodextrin, Asiaticoside, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Caprooyl tetrapeptide-3, Epilobium angustifolium flower/leaf/stem extract, Retinal, Palmitoyl tripeptide-38, Lactic acid, Dimethyl sulfone, Fulvic acid, Hydroxyproline, Beta-glucan, Thioctic acid, Sodium hyaluronate, Lavandula angustifolia oil, Rubus chamaemorus seed oil, Santalum austrocaledonicum wood oil, Pogostemon cablin oil, Lonicera caprifolium flower extract, Lonicera japonica flower extract, Dextran, Xanthan gum, Alcohol denat., Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, Benzyl alcohol
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Cyclodextrins: new drug delivery systems in dermatology
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Therapeutic Potential of Polyphenols from Epilobium Angustifolium (Fireweed): Polyphenols from Fireweed
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acid
- Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skin
- Topical effects of N-acetyl-L-hydroxyproline on ceramide synthesis and alleviation of pruritus
- β-Glucans: Multi-Functional Modulator of Wound Healing
- Anti-Wrinkle Therapy: Significant New Findings in the Non-Invasive Cosmetic Treatment of Skin Wrinkles with Beta-Glucan
- Skin Health Promotion Effects of Natural Beta-Glucan Derived from Cereals and Microorganisms: A Review
- Anticancer properties of low molecular weight oat beta-glucan – An in vitro study
- A critical review on production and industrial applications 2 of beta-glucans
- Improving skin function with CM-glucan, a biological response modifier from yeast
- Preparation, characterization, and biological properties of β-glucans
- Characterization of a new beta(1-3)-glucan branching activity of Aspergillus fumigatus
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- VOLATILE CONSTITUENTS FROM THE FLOWERS OF TWO SPECIES OF HONEYSUCKLE ( LONICERA JAPONICA AND LONICERA CAPRIFOLIUM )
- Chemical composition of the essential oils from the flower, leaf and stem of Lonicera japonica