OSKIA

OSKIA Violet Water Hydra-Gel

Name: OSKIA - Violet Water Hydra-Gel
Brand: OSKIA

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Lysine hcl + 23 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Violet Water Hydra-Gel”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

Lysine hclKey activeEffect: High~0.2–0.4%

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.3–5.2%

PcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.3–0.55%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.35%

BetaineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture~0.35–0.65%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.6–2%

Chondrus crispusKey activeEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.2–0.4%

Ethyl linoleateKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.3–0.5%

Glutamic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.3–0.55%

AlanineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.2–0.4%

SerineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.45–0.7%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.2–0.4%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.55–0.8%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: HighAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

GlycineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.2–0.4%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Chlorella vulgaris extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.4%

ProlineKey activeEffect: Medium~0.25–0.4%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~2.2–2.7%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: HighA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.8–1.15%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.4%

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~0.65–0.95%

Anti-blemish

Niacinamide, Ethyl linoleate + 3 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Formulated using sebum-control-technology and fortified with 20 symbiotic active ingredients, OSKIA Violet Water Hydra-Gel is a daily-use clarifying moisturiser created to calm, hydrate, and purify oily, blemished, and acne-prone skin.”

Source: Face the future

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

In addition, this product contains ethyl linoleate. It can help in reducing blemishes, even though it is less effective.

Ethyl linoleateKey activeEffect: HighHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.3–0.5%

Potassium azeloyl diglycinateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture~0.65–0.95%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~4.1–5%

GluconolactoneUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.8–1.15%

Evens skin tone

Niacinamide, Ethyl linoleate + 5 more

Strong evidence

What the product description says

“Key Benefits Calming gel texture Supports the skin’s microbiome Helps to reduce the look of blemishes, scarring and hyperpigmentation Features sebum-controlling technology Rich in amino acids, minerals and vitamins Encourages a brighter, clearer appearance UK200037782”

Source: SpaceNK US

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine, ethyl linoleate, hexylresorcinol.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~4.3–5.2%

Ethyl linoleateEffect: LowHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking~0.3–0.5%

HexylresorcinolEffect: LowMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.35–0.65%

AlanineEffect: LowAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.2–0.4%

Anti-aging

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide, Serine + 5 more

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

SerineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

ThreonineKey activeEffect: MediumAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.4%

Lactic acidUnder-dosedEffect: MediumAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.2–0.4%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~4.1–5%

Ascorbyl palmitateEffect: Low, below effective doseBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.~0.2–0.4%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Camellia japonica flower extract, Hexylresorcinol + 5 more

Moderate evidence

This product contains antioxidants (camellia japonica flower extract, hexylresorcinol) that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin to lessen the damage it gets from the UV light (sun). There is not enough evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin though.

Camellia japonica flower extractKey activeEffect: MediumA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.25–0.45%

HexylresorcinolKey activeEffect: MediumMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin~0.35–0.65%

Chlorella vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties~0.2–0.4%

Boerhavia diffusa root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals~0.3–0.55%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~4.1–5%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

3 strong irritants: Rosa damascena extract, Citronellol + 1 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 19 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Camellia japonica flower extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skinHigh~0.25–0.45%est.

Rosa damascena extractOil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.High~0.2–0.35%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~4.1–5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.6–2%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.8–1.15%est.

HexylresorcinolMight be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skinMedium~0.35–0.65%est.

Boerhavia diffusa root extractA plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicalsMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Ethyl linoleateHelps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lackingMedium~0.3–0.5%est.

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory propertiesMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Medium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulationMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Polyglyceryl-4 oleateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ci 77742A violet pigmentMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Chlorella vulgaris extractA plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

Chondrus crispusRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.2–0.4%est.

CarrageenanHelps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.25–0.5%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Niacinamide~4.3–5.2%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~4.1–5%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Dimethyl sulfone~3–3.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Dimethyl sulfone

Butylene glycol~2.2–2.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Propanediol~1.8–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.6–2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Zinc glycinate~1.4–1.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Zinc glycinate

Sodium gluconate~1.1–1.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate

Gluconolactone~0.8–1.15%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-agingEvens skin toneExfoliationAnti-blemishAnti-oxidation

A polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals

More about Gluconolactone

Potassium azeloyl diglycinate~0.65–0.95%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryEvens skin toneAnti-blemishMoisturizing

A derivative of azelaic acid. It is obtained by reacting the chloride of azelaic acid with two molecules of glycine (an amino acid) and potassium hydroxide. It is less studied than azelaic acid, but the available research suggests that it also can be effective in reducing skin redness, hyperpigmentation and blemishes. There are claims that it is more bio-available and more effective than azelaic acid, but no comparison study is available. Potassium azeloyl diglycinate is better soluble in water compared with azelaic acid. Because of this property, products with potassium azeloyl digclycinate can have a nicer texture

More about Potassium azeloyl diglycinate

Sodium pca~0.55–0.8%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Sodium hyaluronate~0.45–0.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid

Colloidal silver~0.4–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Colloidal silver

Betaine~0.35–0.65%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture

More about Betaine

Hexylresorcinol~0.35–0.65%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationEvens skin tone

Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and neutralizing free radicals in skin

More about Hexylresorcinol

Pca~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Pca

Boerhavia diffusa root extract~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help reduce inflammation and neutralize free radicals

More about Boerhavia diffusa root extract

Ethyl linoleate~0.3–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-inflammatory

Helps reduce acne and blemishes. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce inflammation. Might be helpful in reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out the skin tone, but evidence of effectiveness in skin are lacking

More about Ethyl linoleate

Glycerin~0.3–0.55%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Glutamic acid~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Glutamic acid

Serine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Serine

Alanine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin tone

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking

More about Alanine

Camellia japonica flower extract~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Camellia japonica flower extract

Glycine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function

More about Glycine

Zinc oxide~0.4–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

A broad spectrum sunblock (protects from both UVA and UVB rays). Is suitable for most sensitive skins. In small concentrations, can be used as a colorant

More about Zinc oxide

Chlorella vulgaris extract~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that can help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

More about Chlorella vulgaris extract

Lysine hcl~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Lysine hcl

Threonine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles

More about Threonine

Arginine~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.

More about Ascorbyl palmitate

Proline~0.25–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

More about Proline

Pentylene glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Lactic acid~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingExfoliationAnti-aging

An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)

More about Lactic acid

Sodium lactate~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Chondrus crispus~0.2–0.4%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus

Carrageenan~0.25–0.45%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Helps thicken the product formula and create a nice product formulation

More about Carrageenan

Cetearyl olivate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Cetearyl olivate

Cetearyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Polyglyceryl-4 oleate~0.25–0.45%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-4 oleate

Sorbitan olivate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sorbitan olivate

Dehydroxanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps create thicker product formulations and stabilize emulsions

More about Dehydroxanthan gum

Rosa damascena extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Oil of a very fragrant pink rose used as fragrance in cosmetics. Extensive research has shown it has mixed benefits. In the pro column, inhaling this flower’s scent seems to have relaxing properties and the plant’s petals contain skin-soothing and antioxidant compounds that can benefit skin. On the flipside, the numerous chemicals that create this rose’s distinctive fragrance pose a risk of causing skin aggravation.

More about Rosa damascena extract

Sodium benzoate~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate

Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate

Ci 77742~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A violet pigment

More about Ci 77742

Citronellol~0.1–0.2%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citronellol

Geraniol~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Geraniol

Rosa damascena extract~0.1–0.15%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Rosa damascena extract

Ingredient list view

Water, Niacinamide, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Dimethyl sulfone, Butylene glycol, Propanediol, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Zinc glycinate, Sodium gluconate, Gluconolactone, Potassium azeloyl diglycinate, Sodium pca, Sodium hyaluronate, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Colloidal silver, Betaine, Hexylresorcinol, Pca, Boerhavia diffusa root extract, Ethyl linoleate, Glycerin, Glutamic acid, Serine, Alanine, Camellia japonica flower extract, Glycine, Zinc oxide, Chlorella vulgaris extract, Lysine hcl, Threonine, Arginine, Ascorbyl palmitate, Proline, Pentylene glycol, Lactic acid, Sodium lactate, Chondrus crispus, Carrageenan, Cetearyl olivate, Cetearyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-4 oleate, Sorbitan olivate, Dehydroxanthan gum, Rosa damascena extract, Sodium benzoate, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Ci 77742, Citronellol, Geraniol, Rosa damascena extract

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	OSKIAViolet Water Hydra-GelYOUR PRODUCT	Skincare by Dr VTrio Blemish AM Gel Moisturiser	Temple skincareTMPL Hydrating Face Moisturiser	MesoesteticDermamelan Intimate Home Depigmenting Gel Cream
Match	—	74%	66%	65%
Price	$59.89	$50.73−$9.16	—	$113.62+$53.73
Shared key ingredients	—	4 of 23	4 of 23	4 of 23
Key difference	—	Panthenol	Phytosphingosine	Salicylic Acid
Irritancy	High	Medium	Low	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "OSKIA - Violet Water Hydra-Gel" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. OSKIA - Violet Water Hydra-Gel ticks this box. Humectants in this product (alanine, arginine, betaine, glutamic acid and glycerin) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Emollients in this formulation (ethyl linoleate, arginine, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol and pentylene glycol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (4.30% - 5.20%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product contains acids (gluconolactone 0.80% - 1.15% and lactic acid 0.20% - 0.40%). Their concentration is low, and they will not have a strong exfoliating effect. Instead, they work to support the skin natural acid mantle and to attract water (as humectants). PHAs (gluconolactone) especially are great for improving skin hydration. They might be even able to stimulate the production of skin's natural humectants and support the healthy skin microbiome.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: lactic acid, zinc oxide, potassium azeloyl diglycinate and sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 44.80£ up to 83.50£ in the United Kingdom and for 78.00$ in the United States.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 44 studies and safety reviews.

1
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
2
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
3
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate shows in vitro and in vivo efficacy in the prevention and treatment of acne vulgarisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Sodium ascorbyl phosphate in topical microemulsionssciencedirect.com
5
Final report of the safety assessment of L-Ascorbic Acid, Calcium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbate, and Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate as used in cosmeticseuropepmc.org
6
Regulation of collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts by the sodium and magnesium salts of ascorbyl-2-phosphatekarger.com
7
Comparison of clinical efficacies of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinol and their combination in acne treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
8
Application of l-ascorbic acid and its derivatives (sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate) in topical cosmetic formulations: stability studiesinis.iaea.org
9
Sodium L-ascorbyl-2-phosphate 5% lotion for the treatment of acne vulgaris: a randomized, double-blind, controlled trialonlinelibrary.wiley.com
10
A comparative study of gluconolactone versus benzoyl peroxide in the treatment of acnencbi.nlm.nih.gov
11
The Polyhydroxy Acid Gluconolactone Protects Against Ultraviolet Radiation in an In Vitro Model of Cutaneous Photoagingonlinelibrary.wiley.com
12
Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivityncbi.nlm.nih.gov
13
The efficacy of glycolic acid, salicylic acid, gluconolactone, and licochalcone A combined with 0.1% adapalene vs adapalene monotherapy in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris: a double-blinded within-person comparative studydovepress.com
14
A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimenncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
The use of polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) in photoaged skin
16
Blackwell Publishing, Ltd. Alpha-hydroxyacids and carboxylic acidsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
17
An evaluation of a polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen in combination with azelaic acid 15% gel in rosacea patientsonlinelibrary.wiley.com
18
Aging Skin: Causes, Treatments, and Preventionsciencedirect.com
19
Clinical and cosmeceutical uses of hydroxyacidssciencedirect.com
20
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) Provide Conditioning Effects to Skin Without Increasing Sensitivity to UV Lightneostrata.neogen.gr
21
Clinical and instrumental assessment of the effects of a new product based on hydroxypropyl chitosan and potassium azeloyl diglycinate in the management of rosaceancbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
A Preliminary Clinical Evaluation of a Topical Product for Reducing Slight Rosacea Imperfectionsdovepress.com
23
Azeloyl-Glycine: A new active in skin disequilibriumresearchgate.net
24
Formulation and evaluation of the cream made from potassium azeloyl diglycinate as an anti-agingresearchgate.net
25
Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin agingncbi.nlm.nih.gov
26
Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin careresearchgate.net
27
Use of boerhavia diffusa extract for skin reliefpatents.google.com
28
Plant-Derived Immunomodulatorssciencedirect.com
29
Ethyl linoleate inhibits α-MSH-induced melanogenesis through Akt/GSK3β/β-catenin signal pathwayncbi.nlm.nih.gov
30
Double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled study of a lotion containing triethyl citrate and ethyl linoleate in the treatment of acne vulgarisonlinelibrary.wiley.com
31
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
32
Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skinonlinelibrary.wiley.com
33
Combination of amino acids reduces pigmentation in B16F0 melanoma cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
34
Effect of Topical Application of Glycine and Proline on Recalcitrant Leg Ulcers of Prolidase Deficiencyjamanetwork.com
35
Functional glycine receptor in cultured human keratinocytesonlinelibrary.wiley.com
36
A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxideonlinelibrary.wiley.com
37
Risk assessment of zinc oxide, a cosmetic ingredient used as a UV filter of sunscreensncbi.nlm.nih.gov
38
Characterization of the UVA protection provided by avobenzone, zinc oxide, and titanium dioxide in broad-spectrum sunscreen productsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
39
Ultraviolet Protection Properties of Commercial Sunscreens and Sunscreens Containing Zno Nanorodsiopscience.iop.org
40
ZnO nanoparticles and organic chemical UV-filters are equally well tolerated by human immune cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
41
Epidermal and dermal effects of topical lactic acidncbi.nlm.nih.gov
42
Dual Effects of Alpha-Hydroxy Acids on the Skinpdfs.semanticscholar.org
43
Seaweeds as Source of Bioactive Substances and Skin Care Therapy—Cosmeceuticals, Algotheraphy, and Thalassotherapymdpi.com
44
Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extractsec.europa.eu

OSKIAViolet Water Hydra-Gel

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.