NUXE Merveillance Expert Face Normal Skin Cream

NUXE Merveillance Expert Face Normal Skin Cream

Efficacy37/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

1 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Moisturizing
11 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“Merveillance Expert Face Normal Skin Cream”
From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hydroxyethyl urea.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, phenyl trimethicone.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~1.2–1.5%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.6–4.4%
Hydroxyethyl ureaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.5–0.7%
Persea gratissima oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function~0.95–1.15%
Phenyl trimethiconeKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighA type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture~0.4–0.65%
Lauroyl lysineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture~0.35–0.65%
Capryloyl glycineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.35–0.65%
Dicaprylyl carbonate· EmollientEffect: LowHelps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin~1.4–1.8%
Arachidyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency~2.4–2.9%
Rosa canina fruit oilUnder-dosedEffect: HighA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating~0.2–0.4%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.65%
Anti-aging
1 ingredient credited for this claim
Weak support
What the product description says
“Oak extract reinforced by Althea root fills in wrinkles and smooths the skin, whilst delivering re-plumping action thanks to calendula petals and mimosa seeds.”
Source: Lookfantastic

Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.35–0.65%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · 1 ingredient credited for this claim
Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: hydroxyethyl urea.

Hydroxyethyl ureaKey activeEffect: HighA derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients~0.5–0.7%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Rosa moschata seed oil, Parfum + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 13 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Rosa moschata seed oil—High~3–3.7%est.
ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.6–0.95%est.
AlcoholCan be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial propertiesHigh~0.55–0.8%est.
Albizia julibrissin bark extractA plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missingHigh~0.45–0.65%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~1.2–1.5%est.
Persea gratissima oilAn emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier functionMedium~0.95–1.15%est.
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerMaintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.
Sodium stearoyl glutamateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Rosa canina fruit oilA great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.
Dehydroacetic acidA preservativeMedium~0.15–0.25%est.
Comedogenic
Clean of flagged comedogenic ingredients
None flagged
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Rubus idaeus fruit water~6.7–8.2%
Formula
Glycerin~3.6–4.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Rosa moschata seed oil~3–3.7%
Irritant · high
Arachidyl alcohol~2.4–2.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency

More about Arachidyl alcohol
Corylus avellana seed oil~1.9–2.4%
Formula
Pentaerythrityl distearate~1.6–2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing
More about Pentaerythrityl distearate
Dicaprylyl carbonate~1.4–1.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin

More about Dicaprylyl carbonate
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~1.2–1.5%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Persea gratissima oil~0.95–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function

More about Persea gratissima oil
Parfum~0.6–0.95%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum
Alcohol~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Antibacterial

Can be drying and contribute to skin irritation. Used in formulars to dissolve other ingredients, create a thinner product consistency or for its antibacterial properties

More about Alcohol
Hydroxyethyl urea~0.5–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
ExfoliationMoisturizing

A derivative of urea, a compound that is naturally present in skin. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients

More about Hydroxyethyl urea
Albizia julibrissin bark extract~0.45–0.65%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Evens skin toneAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might help to neutralize free radicals in skin. Is claimed to help reduce hyperpigmentation but evidence is missing

More about Albizia julibrissin bark extract
Lauroyl lysine~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Lauroyl lysine
Phenyl trimethicone~0.4–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. It helps create a nice product texture

More about Phenyl trimethicone
Tocopherol~0.35–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryMoisturizingAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Arachidyl glucoside~0.35–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Arachidyl glucoside
Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.3–0.55%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together

More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
Capryloyl glycine~0.35–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Capryloyl glycine
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin
Sodium stearoyl glutamate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Sodium stearoyl glutamate
Rosa canina fruit oil~0.2–0.4%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A great emollient. Contains vitamin E (tocopherol) which may give it some anti-oxidant properties. Can contain volatile compounds and can be irritating

More about Rosa canina fruit oil
Dehydroacetic acid~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Dehydroacetic acid
Phenoxyethanol~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol
Sodium gluconate~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps stabilize product formulations

More about Sodium gluconate
Xanthan gum~0.15–0.25%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Benzyl alcohol~0.05%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Ammonium lactate~0.05–0.15%
Formula
Hemerocallis fulva extract~0.05–0.1%
Formula
Geranylgeranylisopropanol~0.05%
Formula
Sodium benzoate~0.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

A preservative

More about Sodium benzoate
Ingredient list view

Water, Rubus idaeus fruit water, Glycerin, Rosa moschata seed oil, Arachidyl alcohol, Corylus avellana seed oil, Pentaerythrityl distearate, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Persea gratissima oil, Parfum, Alcohol, Hydroxyethyl urea, Albizia julibrissin bark extract, Lauroyl lysine, Phenyl trimethicone, Tocopherol, Arachidyl glucoside, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Capryloyl glycine, Sodium hydroxide, Citric acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium stearoyl glutamate, Rosa canina fruit oil, Dehydroacetic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium gluconate, Xanthan gum, Benzyl alcohol, Ammonium lactate, Hemerocallis fulva extract, Geranylgeranylisopropanol, Sodium benzoate

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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 6 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
  6. 6
NUXE Merveillance Expert Face Normal Skin Cream
NUXEMerveillance Expert Face Normal Skin Cream

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