Kiehl's Ultra Facial Meltdown Recovery Cream
Works for
1 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Moisturizing18 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Ultra Facial Meltdown Recovery Cream”
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol
Evens skin tone1 ingredient credited for this claimWeak support
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low
Anti-agingNot advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy1 strong irritant: Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractMedium risk
Comedogenic4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale4 flagged
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Ingredients
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Water~40–60%
Glycerin~4–5.9%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinCaprylic/capric triglyceride~3.7–5.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
More about Caprylic/capric triglycerideSqualane~2.8–4.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
More about SqualaneButyrospermum parkii butter~2.1–3.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
More about Butyrospermum parkii butterStearyl alcohol~1.7–2.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that helps soften the skin
More about Stearyl alcoholCetyl alcohol~1.4–2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
More about Cetyl alcoholMyristyl myristate~1.3–1.9%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
An emollient. Is not recommended for acne-prone skin as it can be comedogenic
More about Myristyl myristateC15-19 alkane~0.95–1.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product texture
More about C15-19 alkanePhenoxyethanol~0.5–1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products
More about PhenoxyethanolPanthenol~0.45–1.05%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
More about PanthenolGlyceryl stearate~0.4–0.95%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
More about Glyceryl stearateDimethicone~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
More about DimethiconePeg-100 stearate~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture
More about Peg-100 stearatePersea gratissima oil~0.3–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
An emollient that helps soften the skin and could be helpful in repairing its barrier function
More about Persea gratissima oilChlorphenesin~0.16–0.32%
Stearic acid~0.35–0.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
More about Stearic acidPalmitic acid~0.2–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
More about Palmitic acidTrisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Used to improve stability of the formulation
More about Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinateCarbomer~0.1–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations
More about CarbomerAcrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerTocopherol~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolBisabolol~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties
More about BisabololZinc gluconate~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
More about Zinc gluconateGlycine soja oil~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 2/5
A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.
More about Glycine soja oilPentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamateXanthan gum~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumEthylhexylglycerin~0.1–0.3%
Adenosine~0.05–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
More about AdenosineSodium hydroxide~0.05–0.25%
Myristic acid~0.1–0.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Helps oil and water mix together. Could be comedogenic
More about Myristic acidCitric acid~0.05–0.1%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH
More about Citric acidHelianthus annuus seed oil~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
More about Helianthus annuus seed oilRosmarinus officinalis leaf extract~0.01–0.05%
- Irritation risk
- High
Can be helpful in reducing inflammation in skin, including inflamed acne. It can be irritating
More about Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extractIngredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Squalane, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Stearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Myristyl myristate, C15-19 alkane, Phenoxyethanol, Panthenol, Glyceryl stearate, Dimethicone, Peg-100 stearate, Persea gratissima oil, Chlorphenesin, Stearic acid, Palmitic acid, Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, Carbomer, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Bisabolol, Zinc gluconate, Glycine soja oil, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Xanthan gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium hydroxide, Myristic acid, Citric acid, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Rosmarinus officinalis leaf extract
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Kiehl'sUltra Facial Meltdown Recovery CreamYOUR PRODUCT | COSRXThe Retinol 0.1 Cream | SKKN by KimFace Cream | OrjenaResponse synergy barrier cream | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 62% | 60% | 60% |
| Price | $30.00 | $18.18−$11.82 | — | $25.00−$5.00 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 8 of 11 | 7 of 11 | 5 of 11 |
| Key difference | — | Retinol | Lactic Acid | Niacinamide |
| Irritancy | Medium | Medium | Medium | Low |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | Contains drying alcohol | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
"Kiehl's - Ultra Facial Meltdown Recovery Cream" has a good moisturizing formula. As we expect from a proper moisturizer, the formula includes a combo of effective humectants and emollients. These are the two different types of ingredients that are essential for improving the skin hydration and supporting a healthy skin barrier. Panthenol and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Glycine soja oil, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and myristyl myristate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- Adenosine 0.05% - 0.30%. It is a chemical present inside our skin cells. A clinical trial confirmed that topical application of Adenosine in a low concentration can reduce dynamic wrinkles (these are the wrinkles that appear with age in a places where our mimic is the most active, for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead).
- Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) at about 0.45% - 1.05% concentration. In this concentration, Panthenol works effectively to improve the skin barrier and reduce inflammation.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains actives that can be irritating. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 24 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulationspdfs.semanticscholar.org
- 3
- 4
- 5Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
- 6Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
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