NINE LESS

Essentials UV Shield Soothing Sun Cream 50g

Name: NINE LESS - Essentials UV Shield Soothing Sun Cream 50g
Brand: NINE LESS

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 1 of 1 advertised claim delivered

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "NINE LESS - Buy Nineless Essentials UV Shield Soothing Sun Cream Australia - Korean Beauty" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, glucose and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns, cholesterol and brassica campestris sterols in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide eop 0.10% - 0.15%, ceramide ns 0.10% - 0.15% and ceramide np 0.20% - 0.35%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
Adenosine 0.10% - 0.15%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: centella asiatica extract, vitamin e, caprylic/capric triglyceride, stearic acid and niacinamide

Irritation risk

We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 17.50A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Moisturizing

12 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: glycerin, hyaluronic acid.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cholesterol, brassica campestris sterols.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns

NIACINAMIDERole: Under-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.6–0.9%

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.1–0.15%

CERAMIDE EOPRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.15%

CERAMIDE NPRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.2–0.35%

CERAMIDE NSRole: Key activeA type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin~0.1–0.15%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Under-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.15–0.3%

CENTELLA ASIATICA EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.~0.15–0.3%

CHOLESTEROLRole: Key activeAn emollient that is naturally found in skin~0.15–0.3%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.6–1.9%

HYALURONIC ACIDRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.1–0.2%

BETA-GLUCANRole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, calm down inflammation and irritation, restore the barrier function and support wound healing. It can be helpful in reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.25%

CAMELLIA SINENSIS LEAF EXTRACTRole: Key activeCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~0.15–0.3%

Anti-aging

ADENOSINE at ~0.1–0.15% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Irritancy

21 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Vanilla planifolia fruit extractA plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Jasminum officinale flower waterUsed as a fragrance. Can lead to irritationHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Melaleuca alternifolia leaf extractAn essential oil that can be irritating. Has some anti-bacterial propertiesHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Mentha piperita leaf extractUsed as a fragrance and can be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

Acrylates copolymerUsed to stabilize product formulation, help create an even product layer over skin (for example, in sunscreen) and create a thicker product consistencyLow~6.7–8.2%est.

Butyloctyl salicylateA synthetic ester of salicylic acid that is used to help disperse pigments and boost effectiveness of sunscreen ingredients. It is able to absorb UV light (working as an organic, or chemical filter), but is not approved as a sunscreen ingredient on its ownLow~1.9–2.4%est.

Ethylhexyl triazoneUvinul T. A UV filter. Effective against UVB rays. It is photostable. Can increase water resistance properties of the sunscreen. Unfortunately, not approved by the FDA (US) yetLow~1.7–2.1%est.

Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoateUvinul A Plus. A new generation broad spectrum sunscreen that offers an effective protection especially in the UVA range. It is stable in formulations. Unfortunately, is not approved by the FDA (US) yetLow~1.6–1.9%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~0.3–0.6%est.

Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazineTinosorb S. One of the most effective broad spectrum sunscreen ingredients. Protects from both UVA and UVB rays. It is photostable. Unfortunately, not approved by FDA (US) yet.Low~0.4–0.6%est.

C12-20 alkyl glucosideHelps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Methyl glucose sesquistearateHelps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Pyrus malus fruit extractCan have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar contentLow~0.05–0.15%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.1–0.15%est.

T-butyl alcoholUsed to dissolve other ingredients and to improve smell of products. It could be irritatingLow~0.05–0.15%est.

Macadamia ternifolia seed oilPlant oil from nuts that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Contains a high concentration of oleic acid that can weaken skin's barrier function and increase water-loss while enhancing penetration of other ingredientsLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~0.15–0.3%est.

Centella asiatica extractA plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.Low~0.15–0.3%est.

Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.15–0.3%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.15–0.25%est.

Hippophae rhamnoides fruit extractA plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin, but research on its effectiveness is lackingLow~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product textureHigh~2.8–3.5%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~0.15–0.25%est.

Glyceryl stearate seUsed to stabilize the product formulations and works as an emollientMed~0.1–0.2%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

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