Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
- Exfoliation
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"NEOSTRATA - Enlighten Pigment Controller Cream with Retinol & Vitamin C" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. NEOSTRATA - Enlighten Pigment Controller Cream with Retinol & Vitamin C ticks this box. Humectants in this product (acetyl glucosamine, arginine, glycerin, butylene glycol and caprylyl glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). Octyldodecyl neopentanoate, arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter, cetearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.10% - 0.45%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 76.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Enlighten Pigment Controller Cream with Retinol & Vitamin C
Source: From product name
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, acetyl glucosamine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating
A plant extract that has astringent properties. In other words, it might be able to interact with keratin in the uppermost layer of the skin to reduce swelling and create a temporal tightening effect. It can be irritating
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. Can be used as a fragrance. Can be irritating
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
A synergistic combination of highly active benefit ingredients including patented NeoGlucosamine, Retinol, and stabilized Vitamin C work together to increase cell turnover and diminish the appearance of skin discoloration.
Source: Lookfantastic CA
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.
In addition, this product contains acetyl glucosamine. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
An anti-oxidant derived from curcumin (naturally present in tumeric). Is a part of the tetrahydrocurcuminoids complex (THC). The complex might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin and possibly help even out the skin tone. Can be irritating
A vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products
Exfoliation
This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.
Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Addresses hyperpigmentation on multiple levels.
Source: Lookfantastic CA
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
arginine, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine
An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin
An emollient that helps soften the skin. Often used to stabilize other ingredients, for example, sunscreen
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A fruit extract that might have some antioxidant properties and might help attract water to the skin, but evidence of effectiveness is lacking
A type of silicone that can help create nice product texture and soften the upper layer of the skin
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to improve the product consistency and soften the upper layer of the skin
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 NEOSTRATA Enlighten Pigment Controller Cream with Retinol & Vitamin C | Current | $76.00 | |
MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Wrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUS | 84% | $49.99 | |
Sulwhasoo Concentrated Ginseng Renewing Cream Classic | 82% | $0.00 | |
 Neutrogena Ageless Intensives Hyaluronic Acid Wrinkle Cream Hyaluronic | 77% | $18.49 | |
 Elizabeth Grant Advanced Retinol Day Cream | 77% | $70.00 | |
 Obagi Retinol 0.5 Retexturizing Cream | 77% | $61.00 |
Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Acetyl glucosamine, Peg-8 dimethicone, Butylene glycol, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Octyldodecyl neopentanoate, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Propylene glycol hydroxystearate, Hydrogenated polyisobutene, Cetearyl alcohol, Nylon-12, Ascorbyl glucoside, Arginine, Retinol, Tetrahydrodiferuloylmethane, Citric acid, Tocopheryl acetate, Glycerin, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit extract, Achillea millefolium extract, Alchemilla vulgaris extract, Malva sylvestris extract, Melissa officinalis leaf extract, Mentha piperita leaf extract, Primula veris extract, Veronica officinalis extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract, Elettaria cardamomum seed extract, Lavandula angustifolia flower/leaf/stem extract, Eugenia caryophyllus flower extract, Gardenia taitensis flower extract, Hedychium spicatum extract, Hibiscus abelmoschus extract, Jasminum officinale flower/leaf extract, Plumeria rubra flower extract, Polianthes tuberosa extract, Prunus armeniaca fruit extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Caprylyl glycol, Peg-75 stearate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Polysorbate 20, Xanthan gum, Cetyl alcohol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Disodium edta, Bht, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Ci 19140, Ci 17200
- The effect of N-acetyl-glucosamine on stratum corneum desquamation and water content in human skin
- Glucosamine: an ingredient with skin and other benefits
- Genomic expression changes induced by topical N-acetyl glucosamine in skin equivalent cultures in vitro
- Incorporation of D-(^H)glucosamine into normal and psoriatic epidermal glycoconjugates
- Reduction in the appearance of facial hyperpigmentation by topical N-acetyl glucosamine
- Amended Safety Assessment of Alkyl Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Final report of the cosmetic ingredient review expert panel on the safety assessment of Polyisobutene and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene as used in cosmetics
- The Roles of Vitamin C in Skin Health
- Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives
- Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety
- Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol)
- A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin
- Use of tetrahydrocurcuminoids to regulate physiological and pathological events in the skin and mucosa
- Tetrahydrocurcuminoid cream plus targeted narrowband UVB phototherapy for vitiligo: a preliminary randomized controlled study
- Skin lightening effect of tetrahydrocurcumin
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Safety Assessment of Citrus Fruit-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Photosensitivity in children: An approach to diagnosis and management
- Contact dermatitis as an adverse reaction to some topically used European herbal medicinal products – part 1: Achillea millefolium–Curcuma longa
- Effect of herbal mixture composed of Alchemilla vulgaris and Mimosa on wound healing process.
- Analysis of Dyes in Cosmetics: Challenges and Recent Developments