MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson Wrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUS

Name: MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson - Wrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUS
Brand: MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

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Works for

3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Evens skin tone

6 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Wrinkle & Radiance Remedy PLUS delivers dramatic improvements in the look of fine lines, skin tone, radiance, clarity, smoothness, and firmness.”

Source: MD complete

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

In addition, this product contains acetyl glucosamine. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, stearyl glycyrrhetinate.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~3–3.7%

RetinolHeroEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.35%

Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.2–0.35%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateUnder-dosedEffect: HighBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.~0.2–0.35%

NiacinamideUnder-dosedEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.55–0.85%

Moisturizing

29 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Wrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUS”

From product name

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl glucosamine

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.15–0.25%

Acetyl glucosamineHero· HumectantEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~3–3.7%

ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.15–0.3%

Borago officinalis seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.2–0.35%

Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.1–5%

Chondrus crispus extractKey active· OcclusiveEffect: HighRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency~0.15–0.3%

Cocos nucifera oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.35–0.65%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~2.4–2.9%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.6–5.7%

Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.2–0.35%

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.2–0.35%

Hyaluronic acidKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.2–0.35%

Nigella sativa seed oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid~0.1–0.2%

Sodium hyaluronateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Stearyl glycyrrhetinateKey activeEffect: MediumA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation~0.2–0.35%

Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.25–0.45%

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.25–0.5%

Pentylene glycol· EmollientEffect: LowUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture~1.2–1.4%

Avena sativa kernel flourEffect: LowA type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier~0.3–0.55%

Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.2–0.4%

AllantoinUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

PanthenolUnder-dosedEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.25–0.5%

Avena sativa kernel extractUnder-dosedEffect: HighAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~1.4–1.7%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedEffect: HighA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.5–0.75%

Alaria esculenta extractUnder-dosedEffect: MediumWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.2–0.35%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Anti-aging

10 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

What the product description says

“Step up your anti-aging results with an advanced dermatologist-grade treatment for dramatic skin rejuvenation.”

Source: MD complete

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol, acetyl glucosamine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~4.1–5%

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.25–0.5%

Hyaluronic acidEffect: LowOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation~0.2–0.35%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateEffect: Low, below effective doseA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.2–0.4%

Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.2–0.35%

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · 17 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - rubus idaeus seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

RetinolKey activeEffect: HighTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.2–0.35%

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function~0.15–0.25%

Rubus idaeus seed oilKey activeEffect: MediumA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin~0.1–0.25%

Borago officinalis seed oilEffect: LowA plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration~0.2–0.35%

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.15–0.3%

Artemisia vulgaris extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. It can be irritating~0.2–0.35%

Punica granatum fruit extractEffect: LowA fruit extract that is used to add a fragrance to the product. It might have some antioxidant properties~0.15–0.3%

Calendula officinalis flower extractEffect: LowA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating~0.15–0.3%

TocopherolUnder-dosedEffect: HighPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.1–0.15%

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: MediumA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.2–0.4%

BisabololEffect: Low, below effective doseAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.3%

Alaria esculenta extractEffect: Low, below effective doseWorks as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.~0.2–0.35%

Avena sativa kernel extractEffect: Low, below effective doseAn effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties~1.4–1.7%

Tocopheryl acetateEffect: Low, below effective doseA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.~0.15–0.25%

Exfoliation

Not advertised by the brand · 3 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

Acetyl glucosamineKey activeEffect: MediumAn effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin~3–3.7%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · 4 ingredients credited for this claim

Strong support

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateUnder-dosedEffect: HighA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C~0.2–0.4%

AllantoinEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.15–0.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

12 strong irritants: Citrus grandis peel, Artemisia vulgaris extract + 10 more — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 30 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Citrus grandis peel—High~0.15–0.25%est.

Artemisia vulgaris extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus paradisi fruit extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oilA plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivityHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Rosmarinus officinalis extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Calendula officinalis flower extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Citrus clementina fruit extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus limon peel extractA very irritating fragrant ingredientHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Citrus tangerina peel extract—High~0.2–0.35%est.

Gardenia taitensis flower extractUsed as a fragranceHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

Punica granatum fruit extractA fruit extract that is used to add a fragrance to the product. It might have some antioxidant propertiesHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureMedium~1.2–1.4%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.5–0.75%est.

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.2–0.35%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Peg-75 stearateHelps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Benzoic acidA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Stearyl glycyrrhetinateA fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammationMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~0.15–0.3%est.

Ceteth-20Helps water and oil mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.6%est.

Steareth-20Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Rubus idaeus seed oilA plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skinMedium~0.1–0.25%est.

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oilA plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.25%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Medium~0.15–0.25%est.

Nigella sativa seed oilHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acidMedium~0.1–0.2%est.

Comedogenic

4 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

4 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~4.1–5%est.

Cocos nucifera oilAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.35–0.65%est.

Chondrus crispus extractRed algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency3/5~0.15–0.3%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.2–0.35%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Glycerin~4.6–5.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Butyrospermum parkii butter~4.1–5%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter

Acetyl glucosamine~3–3.7%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingExfoliation

An effective moisturizing ingredient that also has been shown to be effective in evening out the skin tone and reducing hyperpigmentation. It can help somewhat reduce wrinkles in skin

More about Acetyl glucosamine

Dimethicone~2.4–2.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid~1.8–2.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatory

Might help to reduce inflammation in skin, but solid research is lacking

More about Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid

Avenanthramides~1.6–1.9%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Avenanthramides

Avena sativa kernel extract~1.4–1.7%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-oxidation

An effective moisturizing and skin barrier repair ingredient. Helps calm down inflammation and has some anti-oxidant properties

More about Avena sativa kernel extract

Pentylene glycol~1.2–1.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture

More about Pentylene glycol

Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~0.75–1.1%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions

More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer

Niacinamide~0.55–0.85%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-blemishEvens skin toneAnti-agingMoisturizingReduces irritationReduces rednessAntibacterialAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.5–0.75%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Cocos nucifera oil~0.35–0.65%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera oil

Carthamus tinctorius extract~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Carthamus tinctorius extract

Carthamus tinctorius seed extract~0.3–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Carthamus tinctorius seed extract

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.25–0.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline

Panthenol~0.25–0.5%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Glyceryl stearate~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate

Avena sativa kernel flour~0.3–0.55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A type of colloidal oatmeal. Can contain potent antioxidants and anti-inflammatory compounds. Is effective in supporting skin barrier

More about Avena sativa kernel flour

Stearyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

An emollient that helps soften the skin

More about Stearyl alcohol

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

Being a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable than ascorbic acid, but still degrades quickly and needs to be stabilized in a formulation with another ingredient. It is claimed to penetrate skin better than pure vitamin C and have the the similar benefits, but solid studies of its effectiveness are lacking. Is likely to require a higher concentration in a product than pure vitamin C to be effective. It might be able to help reduce pore clogging.

More about Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Glycine soja oil~0.2–0.35%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil

Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil

Citrus grandis peel~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus grandis peel

Cetyl alcohol~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol

Caprylyl glycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Artemisia vulgaris extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties. It can be irritating

More about Artemisia vulgaris extract

Citrus paradisi fruit extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus paradisi fruit extract

Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A plant oil with a high content of volatile compounds that can irritate the skin and lead to allergic reactions. Can lead to photosensitivity

More about Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Form of

Not recognized

Hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation

More about Hyaluronic acid

Peg-75 stearate~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Peg-75 stearate

Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Retinol~0.2–0.35%

Hero · Anti-aging, Evens skin tone, Anti-blemishIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Evens skin toneAnti-blemishMattifyingExfoliationAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating

More about Retinol

Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract

Bisabolol~0.15–0.3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Reduces irritationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

An active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties

More about Bisabolol

Sodium hyaluronate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin

More about Sodium hyaluronate

Butyrate (form of

Not recognized

Hyaluronic acid~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

More about Hyaluronic acid

Butylene glycol~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-blemishAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

A stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin C

More about Sodium ascorbyl phosphate

Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Benzoic acid~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Benzoic acid

Ethylhexylglycerin~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A preservative

More about Ethylhexylglycerin

Rosmarinus officinalis extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Rosmarinus officinalis extract

Stearyl glycyrrhetinate~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Evens skin toneMoisturizingReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

A fatty acid derived from licorice. Works as an emollient and can help calm down inflammation

More about Stearyl glycyrrhetinate

Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Reduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract

Zinc citrate~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Zinc citrate

Ceteth-20~0.3–0.6%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together

More about Ceteth-20

Steareth-20~0.3–0.55%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Steareth-20

Calendula officinalis flower extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that has some anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties. Can be irritating

More about Calendula officinalis flower extract

Citrus clementina fruit extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus clementina fruit extract

Citrus limon peel extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

A very irritating fragrant ingredient

More about Citrus limon peel extract

Citrus tangerina peel extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus tangerina peel extract

Citrus grandis peel~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

More about Citrus grandis peel

Allantoin~0.15–0.3%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-blemishExfoliation

Helps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated

More about Allantoin

Arginine~0.15–0.3%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine

Gardenia taitensis flower extract~0.2–0.35%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Used as a fragrance

More about Gardenia taitensis flower extract

Alaria esculenta extract~0.2–0.35%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Works as a humectant helping to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might be effective as an anti-oxidant.

More about Alaria esculenta extract

Borago officinalis seed oil~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-inflammatoryReduces irritationMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A plant oil that is effective in reducing irritation in skin, restore the barrier function and support its hydration

More about Borago officinalis seed oil

Punica granatum fruit extract~0.15–0.3%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A fruit extract that is used to add a fragrance to the product. It might have some antioxidant properties

More about Punica granatum fruit extract

Chondrus crispus extract~0.15–0.3%

Key activeComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Moisturizing

Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and create a nicer product consistency

More about Chondrus crispus extract

Rubus leucodermis (b

Not recognized

Lac~0.1–0.2%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps form a film on the surface of the skin and disperse other ingredients (like colorants) in cosmetics. Lac is a resinous substance secreted by parasite insects living on trees

More about Lac

Rubus idaeus seed oil~0.1–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A plant oil that might be able to help neutralize free radicals in skin

More about Rubus idaeus seed oil

Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil~0.15–0.25%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

A plant oil that can help neutralize free radicals, soften the upper layer of the skin, and support skin's barrier function

More about Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil

Tocopheryl acetate~0.15–0.25%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidation

A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.

More about Tocopheryl acetate

Form of

Not recognized

Tocopherol~0.1–0.15%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Nigella sativa seed oil~0.1–0.2%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and support the skin's barrier due to the high content of linoleic acid

More about Nigella sativa seed oil

Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Acetyl glucosamine, Dimethicone, Hydroxyphenyl propamidobenzoic acid, Avenanthramides, Avena sativa kernel extract, Pentylene glycol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Niacinamide, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cocos nucifera oil, Carthamus tinctorius extract, Carthamus tinctorius seed extract, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Panthenol, Butylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate, Avena sativa kernel flour, Stearyl alcohol, Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, Glycine soja oil, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Citrus grandis peel, Cetyl alcohol, Caprylyl glycol, Artemisia vulgaris extract, Citrus paradisi fruit extract, Citrus aurantium bergamia fruit oil, Sodium hyaluronate, Unknown, Hyaluronic acid, Peg-75 stearate, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel extract, Bisabolol, Sodium hyaluronate, Unknown, Hyaluronic acid, Butylene glycol, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Tocopherol, Benzoic acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Rosmarinus officinalis extract, Stearyl glycyrrhetinate, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Zinc citrate, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Calendula officinalis flower extract, Citrus clementina fruit extract, Citrus limon peel extract, Citrus tangerina peel extract, Citrus grandis peel, Allantoin, Arginine, Gardenia taitensis flower extract, Alaria esculenta extract, Borago officinalis seed oil, Punica granatum fruit extract, Chondrus crispus extract, Unknown, Lac, Rubus idaeus seed oil, Vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil, Tocopheryl acetate, Unknown, Tocopherol, Nigella sativa seed oil

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MD complete

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	MD Complete by Dr. Brian ZelicksonWrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUSYOUR PRODUCT	Gold BondAGE RENEW RETINOL OVERNIGHT BODY & FACE LOTION	innisfreeRetinol Cica Barrier Defense Cream	skintificRetinol Skin Renewal Moisturizer Acne & Anti-Aging Night Cream
Match	—	73%	72%	72%
Price	$49.99	$11.97−$38.02	$9.19−$40.80	—
Shared key ingredients	—	7 of 25	9 of 25	8 of 25
Key difference	—	Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12	Madecassoside	Ceramide As
Irritancy	High	Medium	Medium	Medium
Drying alcohol	—	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson - Wrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUS" works well for improving skin hydration To work well, any moisturizer needs to include a combination of water-binding and emollient ingredients. MD Complete by Dr. Brian Zelickson - Wrinkle Radiance Remedy PLUS ticks this box. Acetyl glucosamine, arginine, glycerin, hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Borago officinalis seed oil, glycine soja oil, nigella sativa seed oil, vaccinium macrocarpon seed oil and arginine in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

this moisturizer contains an effective form of retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.20% - 0.35%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternative days or when your skin feels dry.

Irritation risk

This moisturizer contains a bunch of common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide any known benefit for the skin. It might not be the best choice if your skin is sensitive. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.