Essential Shock Intense Retinol Fluid

Name: Natura Bissé - Essential Shock Intense Retinol Fluid
Brand: Natura Bissé

Efficacy 100/100·High irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

Based on the ingredient list, "Natura Bissé - Essential Shock Intense Retinol Fluid" can work well for skin moisturization.

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Product summary

Based on the ingredient list, "Natura Bissé - Essential Shock Intense Retinol Fluid" can work well for skin moisturization. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Urea, alanine, arginine, aspartic acid and glycerin in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Hydrolyzed collagen, arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride and cetearyl ethylhexanoate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

this moisturizer contains an effective form of Retinoids (vitamin A): retinol 0.15% - 0.30%. Retinoids are potent multitasking actives. They work to improve and prevent early signs of aging, reduce hyperpigmentation (age spots and post-acne marks), and prevent inflamed blemishes and clogged pores. The downside of Retinoids is that they can be irritating. If you are not already using a Retinoid in your routine, it is best to start slowly and apply the Retinoid product only a few times per week. If your skin tolerates it well, you can gradually increase the frequency to daily. Because of the irritation risk of Retinoids, we recommend to have another, retinoid-free moisturizer in your routine to use on the alternate days or when your skin feels dry.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin e, lecithin, lactic acid and allantoin

Irritation risk

There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails from 120.00$ up to 135.00$ in the United States and from 105.00£ up to 157.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Anti-aging

RETINOL at ~0.15–0.3% + 7 more curated actives

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: aspartic acid, serine, threonine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.15–0.3%

LACTIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)~0.25–0.45%

RETINYL PALMITATERole: Under-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.45–0.7%

BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTERRole: Key activeA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.7–2.1%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

Moisturizing

20 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: alanine, arginine.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: urea

UREARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin (urea makes up about 7% of natural moisturizing factors in skin). Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations~0.2–0.4%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~5.5–6.7%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~1.2–1.4%

GLYCINERole: Key activeHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function~0.15–0.3%

HISTIDINERole: Key active~0.15–0.3%

HYDROLYZED COLLAGENRole: Key activeA typically plant-derived compound that is supposed mimic human collagen. Cannot penetrate the skin barrier so is not particularly useful in skincare products beyond attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.7–1.05%

ISOLEUCINERole: Key activeAn amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function~0.15–0.3%

ASPARTIC ACIDRole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

PCARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.15–0.3%

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.2–0.35%

ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.35–0.65%

SERINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.25–0.5%

SILYBUM MARIANUM EXTRACTRole: Under-dosedMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin tone~0.35–0.6%

SODIUM LACTATERole: Key activeHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.3–0.55%

SODIUM PCARole: Key activeNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~0.2–0.35%

THREONINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles~0.2–0.35%

TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.35%

ALANINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.3%

Evens skin tone

RETINOL at ~0.15–0.3% + 3 more curated actives

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: alanine.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

ALANINERole: Key activeAn amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking~0.15–0.3%

Exfoliation

RETINOL at ~0.15–0.3% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: retinol.

ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.35–0.65%

Anti-blemish

RETINOL at ~0.15–0.3% delivers this without it being on the label

Quiet bonus

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: retinol. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.35–0.65%

Irritancy

32 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 32 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

CocoglyceridesHelp soften the upper layer of the skin and make it easier for oil and water mix together. Recently, a rising number of allergic reactions to cocoglycerides and other coconut-derived surfactants has been reported. As there is a significant overlap between frequent irritants and allergens, we flag this ingredient for attention of those with very sensitive, reactive skinHigh~2–2.4%est.

Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Fomes officinalis extractA fungus extract that can help to create a temporary tightening feeling on the skinHigh~0.45–0.7%est.

Silybum marianum extractMight be able to help neutralize free radical, calm down inflammation in skin, and even skin toneHigh~0.35–0.6%est.

RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~0.2–0.35%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

GeraniolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.

HydroxycitronellalA fragrance. A likely allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

LinaloolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

CitronellolA fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Cinnamyl alcohol—High~0.15–0.25%est.

CitralA fragrance with a lemon scent. A likely irritantHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.

Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~5.5–6.7%est.

C12-20 acid peg-8 esterHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~2.3–2.8%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productLow~0.3–0.55%est.

Lactic acidAn exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiome)Low~0.25–0.45%est.

Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.2–0.35%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.2–0.35%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresolUsed to stabilize the product formulation protecting it from sun lightLow~0.2–0.35%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.25–0.4%est.

Peg-60 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oilHelps oil and water mix togetherLow~0.2–0.4%est.

Sorbic acidA preservativeLow~0.2–0.35%est.

Comedogenic

Butyrospermum parkii butter ~1.7–2.1% — rinse-off or low %

Some risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicalsHigh~1.7–2.1%est.

Triticum vulgare germ extractPlant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Avoid if you suffer from wheat or gluten intoleranceHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

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Essential Shock Intense Retinol Fluid

Product summary

Ingredient callouts

Irritation risk

Price

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

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