Medicube

Deep Vita C Capsule Cream Mini Trial Size 4.5g

Name: Medicube - Deep Vita C Capsule Cream Mini Trial Size 4.5g
Brand: Medicube

Efficacy 100/100·Medium irritancy

Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 3 of 3 advertised claims delivered

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Product summary

Judging from the ingredient list, "Medicube - Buy Deep Vita C Capsule Cream Mini Trial Size in Australia - Online Korean Skincare" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Arginine, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate and butylene glycol in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Glycine soja oil, arginine, helianthus annuus seed oil, cetearyl alcohol and ethylhexyl palmitate in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.

Ingredient callouts

We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (2.10% - 3.20%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this moisturizer it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.40%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.80%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Another helpful ingredient in this moisturizer is Linoleic Acid. It is one of the fatty acids naturally present in skin. It is part of the skin barrier. Preliminary research shows that it might be able to reduce clogged pores.

This product contains ingredients that could be beneficial, but their concentrations are too low in this formulation: vitamin c, gluconolactone, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and vitamin e

Irritation risk

This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here

You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.

Price

The product retails for 3.50A$ in Australia.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Product claims breakdown

Anti-blemish

NIACINAMIDE at ~2.1–3.2% + 2 more curated actives

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

NIACINAMIDERole: HeroIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~2.1–3.2%

GLUCONOLACTONERole: Under-dosedA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicals~0.2–0.8%

LINOLEIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedAn excellent emollient. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores~0.45–1.1%

Anti-aging

7 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: ferulic acid, folic acid.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

ADENOSINERole: Key activeMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.8%

3-O-ETHYL ASCORBIC ACIDRole: Under-dosedA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in products~0.15–0.55%

FERULIC ACIDRole: Key activeA potent anti-oxidant that has been shown to be effective in neutralizing free radicals in skin. There seem to have a synergetic effect of ferulic acid, vitamin E and C, meaning that when the ingredients are used together, they enhance each other's ability protect the skin against free radicals. Ferulic acid also helps to stabilize other ingredients - including vitamins C and E. It can help to even out the skin tone. Ferulic acid is approved for use as a sunscreen ingredient in Japan in concentrations up to 10%~0.15–0.55%

FOLIC ACIDRole: Key activeCan help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin~0.2–0.7%

UBIQUINONERole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.6%

Evens skin tone

5 ingredients contribute at the levels below

Strong evidence

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: alpha-arbutin, niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: ferulic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

ALPHA-ARBUTINRole: Key activeMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutin~0.2–0.8%

Anti-oxidation

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product contains antioxidants (ferulic acid, ubiquinone) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - pyridoxine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

UBIQUINONERole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.6%

PYRIDOXINERole: Key activeMight help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking. It might be irritating~0.2–0.7%

BISABOLOLRole: Key activeAn active component of chamomile plant that historically has been used to calm down irritated skin. A recent study shows that bisabolol indeed can have some anti-inflammatory effect on skin, even though conclusive data is lacking. Bisabolol has a sweet floral scent and can be added to products for its aromatic properties~0.15–0.6%

Moisturizing

Brand does not advertise this — the formula does

Quiet bonus

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, helianthus annuus seed oil.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide

PANTHENOLRole: Under-dosedHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.7%

UBIQUINONERole: Key activeCoenzyme Q10. It helps neutralize free radicals in skin, improves skin hydration and might be helpful agains fine lines and wrinkles. It can be an allergen~0.15–0.6%

GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~3.6–5.4%

GLYCINE SOJA OILRole: Key activeA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.35–0.8%

HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OILRole: Key activeA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.4–0.9%

ARGININERole: Key activeAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.35–0.85%

CYANOCOBALAMINRole: Key activeCan support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin~0.2–0.75%

CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Under-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.95–1.45%

SODIUM HYALURONATERole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin~0.3–0.7%

Irritancy

21 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended

High risk

We flagged 21 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

PyridoxineMight help neutralize free radicals in skin, but evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking. It might be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.7%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.75%est.

3-o-ethyl ascorbic acidA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Can help neutralize free radicals and help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsHigh~0.15–0.55%est.

Hydroxycinnamic acid—High~0.15–0.55%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.1–0.4%est.

Hippophae rhamnoides waterA plant-infused water. The concentration of compounds with potential skin benefits is unlikely to be effectiveLow~22–33%est.

1,2-hexanediolA preservativeLow~2.4–3.6%est.

MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationLow~1.7–2.5%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~0.95–1.45%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Low~0.35–0.8%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 laurateHelps water and oil mix togetherLow~0.2–0.75%est.

EthylhexylglycerinA preservativeLow~0.15–0.7%est.

Polyglyceryl-10 stearateHelps water and oil mix together and softens the upper layer of the skinLow~0.15–0.7%est.

Sodium ascorbyl phosphateA stable derivative of vitamin C. It is oil-soluble which means it is more likely to penetrate the skin compared to the pure form of vitamin C (which is water-soluble), but it is less bio-available and is way less effective in stimulating collagen and reducing wrinkles compared to the pure form of vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) and its other derivatives (for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). At the same time, this vitamin C derivative has been shown in studies to be effective in reducing acne, blemishes and clogged pores. It is less irritating then the pure form of vitamin CLow~0.15–0.7%est.

Thiamine hclCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is studied as a mosquito repellentLow~0.2–0.75%est.

Disodium edtaStabilizes the product formulationLow~0.2–0.8%est.

GluconolactoneA polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that helps shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. Is believed to be genter than AHAs. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can stimulate production of skin's own hyaluronic acid resulting in improved hydration levels. It has been shown to be helpful against acne and clogged pores if used consistently (e.g over a period of 12 weeks) in high enough concentration. It can help reduce fine lines and wrinkles and improve skin tone with long-term application. Can help neutralize free radicalsLow~0.2–0.8%est.

Alpha-arbutinMight help reduce hyperpigmentation when used regularly over a long period of time. Is more effective than beta-arbutinLow~0.2–0.8%est.

Pentylene glycolUsed to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product textureLow~0.4–0.9%est.

Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.2–0.75%est.

Ascorbyl glucosideA vitamin C derivative that is more stable but less potent than pure form of vitamin C. Has a potential to boost collagen production, nutralise free radicals and reduce hyperpigmentation, but the required concentration is likely to be much higher than for the pure form of vitamin C, limiting the ingredient's effectiveness in productsLow~0.1–0.5%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients can clog pores in acne-prone skin

High risk

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Ethylhexyl palmitateAn emollient that helps soften the skin and create a nice product textureHigh~0.5–1.2%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~0.55–1.25%est.

Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Med~0.35–0.8%est.

~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels

Ingredients

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Deep Vita C Capsule Cream Mini Trial Size 4.5g

Product summary

Ingredient callouts

Irritation risk

Price

Product claims breakdown

Ingredients

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