Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Evens skin tone
- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 3
Key actives
Product Summary
"MEDI-PEEL - Phyto Capsule Face Cream Medi-Peel Phyto CICA-Nol B5 Calming Drop Gel Cream" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Glycerin, glyceryl glucoside, hyaluronic acid, hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans and hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns, phytosphingosine and cholesterol) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We particularly like that there is a good concentration of Niacinamide (1.70% - 2.00%) in this moisturizer. Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is a great ingredient to have in a moisturizer. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and help improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
- Another benefit is that this moisturizer contain ceramides (ceramide eop 0.15% - 0.30%, ceramide as 0.15% - 0.30%, ceramide ap 0.15% - 0.30%, phytosphingosine 0.25% - 0.50%, ceramide ns 0.30% - 0.50% and ceramide np 0.30% - 0.55%). Ceramides are an important part of our natural skin barrier. The Ceramides used in skincare are synthetic or come from plants. They help soften the skin and can help "fill the gaps" in the skin barrier, keeping the skin hydrated and resilient for longer.
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine 0.20% - 0.35% and palmitoyl tripeptide-5 0.25% - 0.40%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Adenosine 0.25% - 0.45%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
- Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiaticoside 0.25% - 0.40%, asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.45%, madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.45% and madecassoside 0.25% - 0.50% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
Irritation risk
This formulation includes some common irritants, including ingredients that do not provide a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
What problems it solves sensitivity to environmental influences reduced skin immunity impaired skin barrier function thinning and loss of elasticity Dryness and irritation, flaking of the skin dull complexion hyperpigmentation wrinkles poor skin turgor, "loose" skin
Source: N/A
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, centella asiatica extract, madecassoside, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
A peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Anti-blemish
This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that has anti-bacterial properties. Can be used to preserve the product. Can be irritating
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, madecassoside) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - camellia japonica flower extract, centella asiatica extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect helping neutralize free radicals in skin
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
A plant extract that might be helpful to neutralize free radicals in skin
A plant extract that is rich in a fragrance compound eugenol that is a frequent allergen and can be irritating. It might also contain anti-oxidants to help neutralize free radicals
A plant extract that might have an anti-oxidant effect and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence of effectiveness is lacking
Eggplant fruit extract. Might have some anti-oxidant effect
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A plant extract that might have some anti-oxidant effect
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
A product of yeast fermentation. Can contain humectants that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help neutralize free oxidants
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seeds
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
What problems it solves sensitivity to environmental influences reduced skin immunity impaired skin barrier function thinning and loss of elasticity Dryness and irritation, flaking of the skin dull complexion hyperpigmentation wrinkles poor skin turgor, "loose" skin
Source: N/A
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: madecassoside, prunus mume fruit extract.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
A plant extract that might have an anti-oxidant effect and help even out skin tone, but solid evidence of effectiveness is lacking
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
CICA-Nol B5 is a 20% complex consisting of 5 ingredients of Centella and Panthenol, fine-tuned to quickly soothe irritated skin, provide hydration, strengthen capillaries and protect against couperose or vascular asterisks.
Source: N/A
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
glycerin, glyceryl glucoside.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: butyrospermum parkii butter, caprylic/capric triglyceride.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: ceramide ap, ceramide as, ceramide eop, ceramide np, ceramide ns, madecassoside, niacinamide, palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, phytosphingosine
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Can help to restore skin barrier function and soften its upper layer
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. Naturally present in skin. Typically has large molecule size unless advertised otherwise on the product label. Helps support skin's barrier function and may help to reduce inflammation
Long sugars that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin. A version of it is naturally present in skin
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An antioxidant that is typically derived from plant Centella Asiatica. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin and support skin barrier function. It could, however, itself be irritating. It is often unstable in formulations
A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals
Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of lipid that is naturally present in skin. It might help in repairing skin barrier function and has anti-bacterial effect
An emollient that is naturally found in skin
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might contain antioxidants
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin
An oil naturally present in skin. Works as an emollient to soften the skin and form a protective layer on its surface without a greasy feeling.
A type of lipid similar to ceramides naturally present in skin. Helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and supports the skin barrier function to keep it hydrated. Can help to prevent inflammation in skin
A peptide. It helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin, support skin's barrier function and might have some slight anti-aging effect through stimulating skin's own production of hyaluronic acid
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
A plant extract that has been shown to be able to reduce inflammation in skin, support restoration of skin barrier function, as well as support collagen production. Contains active compounds called centelloids: asiaticoside, madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid. Might be helpful in preventing stretch marks. It can be itself be irritating though.
A plant extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. It might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals in skin, but is less potent than the extract from the seeds
A product of yeast fermentation. Can contain humectants that help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help neutralize free oxidants
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A plant oil that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Is unlikely to be helpful in restoring skin barrier function due to the low content of linoleic acid
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Used to soften the upper layer of the skin and create a thicker product consistency
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and improve the product's texture
An emollient that is naturally present in skin and helps soften it
Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Also serves as an emollient
Softens the upper layer of skin and helps restore the healthy skin barrier. Has shown to help calm down inflammation in skin. It is a stable oil, meaning that it retains its properties even when exposed to air.
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function
Can have some moisturizing properties due to its sugar content
Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 100/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Centella asiatica extract, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Dipropylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Squalane, Glyceryl glucoside, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 laurate, Polyglyceryl-2 stearate, Arachidyl alcohol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Glyceryl stearate, Cetearyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arachidyl glucoside, Melia azadirachta leaf extract, C12-16 alcohols, Palmitic acid, Adenosine, Hydrogenated lecithin, Melia azadirachta flower extract, Panthenol, Coccinia indica fruit extract, Xanthan gum, Solanum melongena fruit extract, Amber powder, Curcuma longa root extract, Ocimum sanctum leaf extract, Madecassoside, Corallina officinalis extract, Moringa oleifera seed oil, Aloe barbadensis flower extract, Simmondsia chinensis seed oil, Madecassic acid, Asiatic acid, Asiaticoside, Camellia japonica flower extract, Saccharomyces/rice ferment filtrate, Prunus mume fruit extract, Pyrus malus fruit extract, Carica papaya fruit extract, Vitis vinifera fruit extract, Stearic acid, Butylene glycol, Sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans, Sodium hyaluronate, Benzyl glycol, Ceramide np, Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, Ceramide ns, Magnesium chloride, Cholesterol, Palmitoyl tripeptide-5, Phytosphingosine, Tetradecyl aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric urea trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl dipeptide-5 diaminobutyroyl hydroxythreonine, Ceramide ap, Ceramide as, Hyaluronic acid, Ceramide eop, Parfum
- Anti-Inflammatory Effect of Titrated Extract of Centella asiatica in Phthalic Anhydride-Induced Allergic Dermatitis Animal Model
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Triterpene Composition and Bioactivities of Centella asiatica
- Asiaticoside induction for cell-cycle progression, proliferation and collagen synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts
- Assessment report on Centella asiatica (L.) Urban, herba
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- The Effects of a Standardized Extract of Centella asiatica on Postlaser Resurfacing Wound Healing on the Face: A Split-Face, Double-Blind, Randomized, Placebo-Controlled Trial
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatology
- Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x
- Effects of glyceryl glucoside on AQP3 expression, barrier function and hydration of human skin
- Treatment of Xerosis with a Topical Formulation Containing Glyceryl Glucoside, Natural Moisturizing Factors, and Ceramide
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Safety Assessment of Tromethamine as Used in Cosmetics
- In Vitro Assessment of Skin Irritation Potential of Surfactant-based Formulations by Using a 3-D Skin Reconstructed Tissue Model and Cytokine Response
- Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics
- Melia azedarach
- Preliminary and Pharmacological Profile of Melia azedarach L.: An Overview
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations
- Safety Assessment of Panthenol, Pantothenic Acid, and Derivatives as Used in Cosmetics
- In Vitro antioxidative and anti-inflammatory activities of the ethanol extract of eggplant (Solanum melongena) stalks in macrophage RAW 264.7 cells
- Vaughn, A. R., Branum, A., & Sivamani, R. K. (2016). Effects of Turmeric (Curcuma longa) on Skin Health: A Systematic Review of the Clinical Evidence. Phytotherapy Research, 30(8), 1243–1264. doi:10.1002/ptr.5640
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Protective effect of madecassoside on H2O2-induced oxidative stress and autophagy activation in human melanocytes
- Madecassoside, a triterpenoid saponin isolated from Centella asiatica herbs, protects endothelial cells against oxidative stress
- Madecassoside Inhibits Melanin Synthesis by Blocking Ultraviolet-Induced Inflammation
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Stability Study of the Active Constituents in the Centella asiatica Extract Formulations
- Moringa oleifera seed oil: Composition, nutritional aspects and health attributes
- Moringa oleifera Seeds and Oil: Characteristics and Uses for Human Health
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Fermented Maesil (Prunus mume) with probiotics inhibits development of atopic dermatitis‐like skin lesions in NC/Nga mice
- Safety Assessment of Vitis Vinifera (Grape)-Derived Ingredients as Used in Cosmetics
- Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging
- Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care
- Skin hydration is significantly increased by a cream formulated to mimic the skin’s own natural moisturizing systems
- Topically Applied Ceramides Interact with the Stratum Corneum Lipid Matrix in Compromised Ex Vivo Skin
- Efficacy of a New Topical Nano-hyaluronic Acid in Humans
- Physiochemical properties and application of hyaluronic acid: a systematic review
- Topical emulsions containing ceramides: Effects on the skin barrier function and anti‐inflammatory properties