Maya Chia The Optimist Hydrating Essence

Maya Chia The Optimist Hydrating Essence

Efficacy100/100IrritancyHigh

Works for

Moisturizing
Panthenol, Lactobacillus + 10 more
Works well
What the product description says
“The Optimist augments the look of skin's hydration and brightness with a proprietary blend of antioxidants, amino acids and fatty acids for radiant, nourished and glowing skin.”
Source: Naturisimo

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, xylitylglucoside.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: cocos nucifera fruit extract, salvia hispanica seed extract.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: panthenol

PanthenolHero· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function~0.2–0.7%
LactobacillusKey activeEffect: HighA non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation~0.85–1.3%
Cocos nucifera fruit extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic~0.55–1.3%
XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.2–0.7%
PhospholipidsKey activeEffect: MediumEmollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product~0.2–0.7%
Salvia hispanica seed extractKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA plant extract that typically contains linolenic and linoleic acids that help soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function~0.15–0.7%
AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.15–0.65%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice· HumectantEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~2.7–4%
Oryza sativa extractEffect: LowA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~2–3%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~1.6–2.3%
Hydrolyzed corn starch· HumectantEffect: LowHelps improve the product texture~0.4–0.95%
Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.35–0.8%
Anti-oxidation
Side benefit · Astaxanthin, Camellia sinensis leaf extract + 4 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (astaxanthin) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - camellia sinensis leaf extract, haematococcus pluvialis extract also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

AstaxanthinKey activeEffect: HighHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation~3.6–5.4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractKey activeEffect: MediumCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~1.6–2.3%
Haematococcus pluvialis extractKey activeEffect: MediumGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin~0.1–0.45%
Oryza sativa extractEffect: LowA grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin~2–3%
Beta vulgaris root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its color~0.3–0.7%
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractEffect: LowA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals~0.1–0.35%
Anti-aging
Side benefit · Astaxanthin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice + 1 more
May help

This product contains astaxanthin. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

AstaxanthinKey activeEffect: MediumHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation~3.6–5.4%
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceEffect: LowTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin~2.7–4%
Camellia sinensis leaf extractEffect: LowCan contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation~1.6–2.3%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
3 strong irritants: Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil + 1 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 14 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.25%est.
Citrus aurantium amara flower oilUsed as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.2%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.15%est.
Beta vulgaris root extractA plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its colorMedium~23–34%est.
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extractA plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicalsMedium~4.9–7.3%est.
AstaxanthinHelps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammationMedium~3.6–5.4%est.
Aloe barbadensis leaf juiceTraditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skinMedium~2.7–4%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~1.2–1.8%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.35–0.8%est.
Lauryl glucosideHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.2–0.75%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 laurateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.15–0.65%est.
Salvia hispanica seed extractA plant extract that typically contains linolenic and linoleic acids that help soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier functionMedium~0.15–0.7%est.
Haematococcus pluvialis extractGreen algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthinMedium~0.1–0.45%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.05–0.2%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Cocos nucifera fruit extractAn emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic3/5~0.55–1.3%est.

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Organic sake
Not recognized
Catechins
Not recognized
Beta vulgaris root extract~23–34%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its color

More about Beta vulgaris root extract
Xylitol~9.5–14.3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~4.9–7.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Omega fatty acids
Not recognized
Antioxidants
Not recognized
Essential minerals
Not recognized
Astaxanthin~3.6–5.4%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Helps neutralize free radicals in skin and might help to calm down inflammation

More about Astaxanthin
Aloe barbadensis leaf juice~2.7–4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAntibacterialReduces irritationReduces rednessAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAnti-aging

Traditionally used to treat sunburns, dermatitis and inflammation, but evidence for its effectiveness is lacking. The extract can contain humectants that help attract water into the skin

More about Aloe barbadensis leaf juice
Oryza sativa extract~2–3%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A grain extract that helps to create a thicker product consistency. It might have some anti-oxidant properties and help attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Oryza sativa extract
Camellia sinensis leaf extract~1.6–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
AntibacterialAnti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-blemish

Can contain potent anti-oxidant compounds (abbreviated ECG, GCG, EGC, and EGCG) that might help protect the skin from free radicals. Can help calm down inflammation and has some anti-bacterial properties. Unfortunately, these antioxidants are unstable and lose their effectiveness very quickly in products. The concentration of the antioxidant compounds in the extract also tends to be low to be effective in topical formulation

More about Camellia sinensis leaf extract
Water~1.4–2.1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~1.2–1.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Lactobacillus~0.85–1.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A non-living ingredient made by fermentation with the bacteria Lactobacillus. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help reduce inflammation

More about Lactobacillus
Cocos nucifera fruit extract~0.55–1.3%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient. Found to be as effective as a moisturizer for dry skin as mineral oil. Could be comedogenic

More about Cocos nucifera fruit extract
Hydrolyzed corn starch~0.4–0.95%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps improve the product texture

More about Hydrolyzed corn starch
Beta vulgaris root extract~0.3–0.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some antioxidant properties, but mostly used in cosmetics for its color

More about Beta vulgaris root extract
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.35–0.8%
Under-dosedIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride
Panthenol~0.2–0.7%
Hero · Moisturizing
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Reduces rednessMoisturizingReduces irritation

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help improve skin barrier function

More about Panthenol
Phospholipids~0.2–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Emollients that are naturaly present in skin. In addition, they help water and oil mix together in the product

More about Phospholipids
Xylitylglucoside~0.2–0.7%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside
Anhydroxylitol~0.15–0.65%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol
Xylitol~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol
Lauryl glucoside~0.2–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Lauryl glucoside
Myristyl glucoside~0.15–0.65%
Formula
Polyglyceryl-6 laurate~0.15–0.65%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-6 laurate
Salvia hispanica seed extract~0.15–0.7%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

A plant extract that typically contains linolenic and linoleic acids that help soften the upper layer of the skin and can support skin barrier function

More about Salvia hispanica seed extract
Haematococcus pluvialis extract~0.1–0.45%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-oxidation

Green algae extract that might contain antioxidant astaxanthin

More about Haematococcus pluvialis extract
Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6~0.1–0.4%
Formula
Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract~0.1–0.35%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryReduces rednessEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A plant extract that can help lighten the skin and calm down inflammation. Might be helpful in neutralizing free radicals

More about Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.05–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Citrus aurantium amara flower oil~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium amara flower oil
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Potassium sorbate~0.05–0.2%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Ingredient list view

Unknown, Unknown, Beta vulgaris root extract, Xylitol, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Unknown, Unknown, Unknown, Astaxanthin, Aloe barbadensis leaf juice, Oryza sativa extract, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, Water, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Lactobacillus, Cocos nucifera fruit extract, Hydrolyzed corn starch, Beta vulgaris root extract, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Panthenol, Phospholipids, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Lauryl glucoside, Myristyl glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 laurate, Salvia hispanica seed extract, Haematococcus pluvialis extract, Polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Citrus aurantium amara flower oil, Cananga odorata flower oil, Potassium sorbate

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Amazon USPrice as of 11/9 06:29 GMT
$59.00
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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Maya ChiaThe Optimist Hydrating EssenceYOUR PRODUCTJumismoSnail EX Ultimate Barrier Facial Snail Essence , Snail mucin Extract, Korean skincare, Skin NourishingDerma EAnti-Blemish Clarifying Bi-Phase TonerFarmacy BeautyHoney Milk Hydrating Essence
Match—48%40%40%
Price$59.00——$16.46−$42.54
Shared key ingredients—3 of 101 of 101 of 10
Key difference—AdenosineGlycolic AcidCeramide Np
Irritancy High Low Medium Low
Drying alcohol————
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 12 studies and safety reviews.

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Maya Chia The Optimist Hydrating Essence
Maya ChiaThe Optimist Hydrating Essence

Affiliate links · As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.

As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.