Sublime Youth Night
Efficacy 87/100·High irritancy
Efficacy measures how well the formula delivers the claims the brand advertises · 2 of 2 advertised claims delivered
Product claims breakdown
Anti-agingRETINOL at ~0.1–0.15% + 3 more curated activesStrong evidence
RETINOL at ~0.1–0.15% + 3 more curated actives
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains retinol.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.15%
NIACINAMIDERole: Under-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.95–1.15%
RETINYL PALMITATERole: Under-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
Moisturizing8 ingredients contribute at the levels belowGood evidence
8 ingredients contribute at the levels below
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
galactoarabinan, glycerin.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
NIACINAMIDERole: Under-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.95–1.15%
DIMETHICONERole: Key activeA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.8–7.1%
GLYCERINRole: Key activeOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~0.7–1.05%
ALLANTOINRole: Under-dosedHelps calm down inflammation in skin and can help reduce itching. Helps to repair the skin barrier and keep skin hydrated~0.25–0.45%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OILRole: Under-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%
CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDERole: Key activeA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~2.5–3.1%
Anti-oxidationRETINOL at ~0.1–0.15% delivers this without it being on the labelQuiet bonus
RETINOL at ~0.1–0.15% delivers this without it being on the label
This product contains antioxidants (retinol) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.15%
TOCOPHEROLRole: Under-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%
ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OILRole: Under-dosedAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant properties~0.25–0.45%
Evens skin toneRETINOL at ~0.1–0.15% delivers this without it being on the labelQuiet bonus
RETINOL at ~0.1–0.15% delivers this without it being on the label
This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: retinol.
Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.
RETINOLRole: HeroTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritating~0.1–0.15%
NIACINAMIDERole: Under-dosedIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture.
The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~0.95–1.15%
RETINYL PALMITATERole: Under-dosedThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effect~0.2–0.35%
Irritancy20 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommendedHigh risk
20 flagged ingredients — patch-test recommended
We flagged 20 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Retinyl palmitateThree steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. To have an effect in the skin, it first needs to be converted twice to become the retinoic acid. This means it is less potent than retinol, but could also be less irritating. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, it helps against all signs of aging, improves skin cell turnover and helps fight blemishes and clogged pores. However, in many cosmetic formulations, it is used in a concentration that is too low to have the full effectHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
RetinolTwo steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. It improves skin cell turnover, helps fight blemishes and clogged pores, can regulate excess oil production and even skin tone. It can, however, be quite irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinLow~2.5–3.1%est.
Tocopheryl acetateA more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.Low~0.25–0.45%est.
Argania spinosa kernel oilAn emollient that helps soften the upper layer of the skin. Might have some weak anti-oxidant propertiesLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrinUsed to stabilize product formulations and help soften the upper layer of the skinLow~0.25–0.45%est.
Ascorbyl palmitateBeing a lipid soluble form of vitamin C, it is more stable and can penetrate the skin better than L-Ascorbic acid. It is effective in protecting the skin from free radicals, as well as evening the skin tone, but is less effective in stimulating collagen production compared to L-Ascorbic acid.Low~0.2–0.35%est.
Portulaca oleracea extractA plant extract that has some anti-oxidant activity, but solid research is lacking. Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skinLow~0.15–0.3%est.
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell cultureHas been claimed to have an ability to protect collagen and stimulate its production in skin but further research is lacking so farLow~0.15–0.3%est.
ComedogenicGossypium herbaceum seed oil ~0.3–0.6% — rinse-off or low %Some risk
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil ~0.3–0.6% — rinse-off or low %
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating ≥ 2. In leave-on products at higher concentrations they can clog pores for acne-prone skin types.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Gossypium herbaceum seed oilCottonseed oil. It is used as an emollient and occlusive in products. It is rich palmitic, oleic acid, and linoleic fatty acids.High~0.3–0.6%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product textureMed~2–2.5%est.
~ marks concentrations estimated from label position and typical use levels
Ingredients
Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.
Water~45–55%
Dimethicone~5.8–7.1%
Isononyl isononanoate~4.3–5.3%
Propanediol~3.1–3.8%
Caprylic/capric triglyceride~2.5–3.1%
Cetearyl alcohol~2–2.5%
Glyceryl stearate~1.7–2.1%
Galactoarabinan~1.5–1.8%
Glyceryl stearate citrate~1.2–1.5%
Niacinamide~0.95–1.15%
Glycerin~0.7–1.05%
Phenoxyethanol~0.55–0.85%
Sorbitol~0.5–0.75%
Carbomer~0.45–0.7%
Sodium benzoate~0.25–0.5%
Ethylhexylglycerin~0.45–0.65%
Elaeis guineensis oil~0.45–0.7%
Gossypium herbaceum seed oil~0.3–0.6%
Parfum~0.3–0.55%
Allantoin~0.25–0.45%
Bidens pilosa extract~0.25–0.45%
Sodium hydroxide~0.25–0.45%
Tocopheryl acetate~0.25–0.45%
Linum usitatissimum seed oil~0.2–0.35%
Retinyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%
Xanthan gum~0.25–0.45%
Citric acid~0.2–0.4%
Argania spinosa kernel oil~0.25–0.45%
Disodium edta~0.2–0.4%
Pentadecalactone~0.2–0.4%
Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.45%
Alpha-isomethyl ionone~0.2–0.35%
Hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin~0.25–0.45%
Linalool~0.2–0.35%
Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%
Lecithin~0.25–0.45%
Ascorbyl palmitate~0.2–0.35%
Citronellol~0.15–0.3%
Limonene~0.15–0.3%
Geraniol~0.15–0.25%
Diacetyl boldine~0.15–0.3%
Glyceryl oleate~0.2–0.4%
Portulaca oleracea extract~0.15–0.3%
Nicotiana sylvestris leaf cell culture~0.15–0.3%
Retinol~0.1–0.15%
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