Kiehl's Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream

Kiehl's Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream

Efficacy87/100IrritancyHigh
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Works for

2 of 2 advertised claims delivered

Anti-aging
3 ingredients credited for this claim
Strong support
What the product description says
“Helps skin bounce back from the visible signs of aging”
Source: Bluemercury

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%
Butyrospermum parkii butterEffect: LowA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.6%
Moisturizing
14 ingredients credited for this claim
Good support
What the product description says
“It works to improve the texture and vitality of your complexion by helping the skin to renew itself and improve its resilience over time, while feeling deeply moisturised and nourished.”
Source: Escentual

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, glycerin.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: arginine, butyrospermum parkii butter.

Helianthus annuus seed oilKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function~0.1–0.2%
GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.4–5.3%
Glycine soja oilKey active· EmollientEffect: HighA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.~0.25–0.45%
ArginineKey active· Humectant, OcclusiveEffect: HighAn amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin~0.95–1.15%
Cera albaKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen~0.55–0.85%
Butyrospermum parkii butterKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals~1.6–2%
UndecaneKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps create a non-greasy finish on the skin~1.5–1.8%
Capryloyl glycineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.5–0.8%
Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~1.3–1.5%
Lauroyl lysineKey activeEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture~1.9–2.3%
AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.25–0.4%
Glyceryl stearate· EmollientEffect: LowAn emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together~2.3–2.8%
Dicaprylyl ether· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients~3.1–3.8%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.4–0.6%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
7 strong irritants: Cananga odorata flower oil, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract + 5 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 16 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Panax ginseng root extractA plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritatingHigh~0.45–0.7%est.
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~0.25–0.5%est.
Cananga odorata flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.35%est.
Vanilla planifolia fruit extractA plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oilAn essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Pelargonium graveolens flower oilAn essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidationHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
LimoneneA common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heatHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
FarnesolAdded to create a nice product smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.05–0.1%est.
UndecaneHelps create a non-greasy finish on the skinMedium~1.5–1.8%est.
TridecaneHelps create a dry, non-greasy finish of the skinMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Cera albaForms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergenMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Citric acidCan work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pHMedium~0.3–0.6%est.
Potassium sorbateA preservativeMedium~0.25–0.5%est.
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrateA preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determineMedium~0.25–0.45%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.Medium~0.25–0.45%est.
Comedogenic
3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
3 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Butyrospermum parkii butterA great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals3/5~1.6–2%est.
Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~1.3–1.5%est.
Glycine soja oilA good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.2/5~0.25–0.45%est.
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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Glycerin~4.4–5.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin
Propanediol~3.9–4.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Dicaprylyl ether~3.1–3.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients

More about Dicaprylyl ether
Glyceryl stearate~2.3–2.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together

More about Glyceryl stearate
Lauroyl lysine~1.9–2.3%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin and creates a nice product texture

More about Lauroyl lysine
Butyrospermum parkii butter~1.6–2%
Key activeComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-agingAnti-oxidation

A great moisturising ingredient that softens the skin and reduces water loss from its upper layer. It also can be helpful in protecting skin from free radicals

More about Butyrospermum parkii butter
Undecane~1.5–1.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps create a non-greasy finish on the skin

More about Undecane
Cetearyl alcohol~1.3–1.5%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol
Arginine~0.95–1.15%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin

More about Arginine
Hydrogenated lecithin~0.7–1.05%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Helps to retain moisture by creating a protective barrier on the skin. Rich in fatty acids. Improves product texture and helps with the penetration of other ingredients.

More about Hydrogenated lecithin
Tridecane~0.55–0.8%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps create a dry, non-greasy finish of the skin

More about Tridecane
Mel extract~0.5–0.8%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Mel extract
Mica~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica
Panax ginseng root extract~0.45–0.7%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-oxidation

A plant extract that might have some anti-inflammatory properties, but solid evidence is lacking. It can be irritating

More about Panax ginseng root extract
Cera alba~0.55–0.85%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Forms a protective barrier that holds water and keeps dry skin hydrated. Keeps an emulsion from separating into its oil and liquid components, and increases the thickness of a product. Can be an allergen

More about Cera alba
Capryloyl glycine~0.5–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together, preserve cosmetic products, and attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Capryloyl glycine
Tocopherol~0.4–0.6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationAnti-agingMoisturizingAnti-inflammatory

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Citric acid~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH

More about Citric acid
Sclerotium gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to create gel-like formulas and stabilize emulsions

More about Sclerotium gum
Xanthan gum~0.3–0.55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Salicylic acid~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
ExfoliationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Potassium sorbate~0.25–0.5%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative

More about Potassium sorbate
Cedrus atlantica bark oil~0.25–0.4%
Formula
Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate~0.25–0.45%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine

More about Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate
Glycine soja oil~0.25–0.45%
Key activeComedogenic 2/5Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Comedogenicity
2/5
Works for
Moisturizing

A good emollient that helps soften the skin and helps repair its barrier function. It can clog pores if used in high concentrations.

More about Glycine soja oil
Adenosine~0.25–0.4%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine
Caramel~0.2–0.4%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Caramel
Cananga odorata flower oil~0.2–0.35%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essential oil. Can be irritating

More about Cananga odorata flower oil
Vanilla planifolia fruit extract~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A plant extract used as a fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Vanilla planifolia fruit extract
Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

An essentil oil from orange peel. Potential allergen and can be irritating

More about Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil
Pelargonium graveolens flower oil~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-oxidation

An essential oil. Can be irritating. Can become an allergen with oxidation

More about Pelargonium graveolens flower oil
Limonene~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A common frangrance that can easily irritate skin, especially if exposed to air, light or heat

More about Limonene
Benzyl benzoate~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Farnesol~0.05–0.1%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Added to create a nice product smell. Can be irritating

More about Farnesol
Helianthus annuus seed oil~0.1–0.2%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function

More about Helianthus annuus seed oil
Ingredient list view

Water, Glycerin, Propanediol, Dicaprylyl ether, Glyceryl stearate, Lauroyl lysine, Butyrospermum parkii butter, Undecane, Cetearyl alcohol, Arginine, Hydrogenated lecithin, Tridecane, Mel extract, Mica, Panax ginseng root extract, Cera alba, Capryloyl glycine, Tocopherol, Citric acid, Sclerotium gum, Xanthan gum, Salicylic acid, Potassium sorbate, Cedrus atlantica bark oil, Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate, Glycine soja oil, Adenosine, Caramel, Cananga odorata flower oil, Vanilla planifolia fruit extract, Bulnesia sarmientoi wood oil, Citrus aurantium dulcis peel oil, Pelargonium graveolens flower oil, Limonene, Benzyl benzoate, Farnesol, Helianthus annuus seed oil

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Kiehl'sPure Vitality Skin Renewing CreamYOUR PRODUCTDECLEORWhite Magnolia Anti-Ageing Rosy CreamPaula's choiceProbiotic Nutrient MoisturizerInstitut EsthedermIntensive Propolis Adult Acne and Wrinkles Face Cream
Match—88%88%88%
Price$46.90$87.59+$40.69$11.24−$35.66$58.00+$11.10
Shared key ingredients—6 of 94 of 93 of 9
Key difference—Isocetyl StearateNiacinamideAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
Irritancy High High Medium Medium
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol ——
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 16 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
  2. 2
  3. 3
  4. 4
  5. 5
    Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
Kiehl's Pure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream
Kiehl'sPure Vitality Skin Renewing Cream

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As an Amazon Associate, WIMJ earns from qualifying purchases.