Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream Tube
Works for
2 of 3 advertised claims delivered
Anti-aging6 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Benefits for Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube 30ml Enhances the skin complexion. Minimizes blemishes. Smooths wrinkles. Mattifies the skin.”
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Moisturizing12 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
“Intensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream Tube”
This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": carnosine, glycerin.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8
Anti-blemish2 ingredients credited for this claimWeak support
“Benefits for Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube 30ml Enhances the skin complexion. Minimizes blemishes. Smooths wrinkles. Mattifies the skin.”
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Anti-oxidationNot advertised by the brand · 7 ingredients credited for this claimStrong support
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
Can it cause trouble?
Irritancy2 strong irritants: Sorbitan sesquioleate, ParfumMedium risk
Comedogenic1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale1 flagged
User reviews
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Ingredients
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Water~40–60%
Propanediol~4.2–6.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
More about PropanediolCorn starch modified~3.6–5.5%
Glycerin~2.6–4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
More about GlycerinPropylheptyl caprylate~2.1–3.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
More about Propylheptyl caprylateAmmonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer~1.7–2.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
More about Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymerC10-18 triglycerides~1.5–2.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
More about C10-18 triglyceridesOryzanol~1.2–1.8%
- Irritation risk
- Low
An anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin
More about OryzanolSorbitan sesquioleate~1–1.5%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating
More about Sorbitan sesquioleateZinc gluconate~0.85–1.25%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
More about Zinc gluconateAcrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer~0.55–1.3%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
More about Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymerSodium citrate~0.45–1%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
More about Sodium citrateSalicylic acid~0.4–0.9%
- Irritation risk
- High
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
More about Salicylic acidParfum~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- High
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
More about ParfumXanthan gum~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to create a thicker product consistency
More about Xanthan gumPropolis extract~0.35–0.85%
- Irritation risk
- High
A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating
More about Propolis extractPropylene glycol~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- High
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
More about Propylene glycolPentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.35–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to increase stability of product formulations
More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamateAdenosine~0.2–0.75%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
More about AdenosineAminoethanesulfinic acid~0.15–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Caprylyl glycol~0.15–0.7%
- Irritation risk
- Medium
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
More about Caprylyl glycolCarnosine~0.15–0.55%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
More about CarnosineTocopherol~0.15–0.5%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
More about TocopherolDisodium adenosine triphosphate~0.1–0.45%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Laminaria digitata extract~0.1–0.4%
- Irritation risk
- Low
- Comedogenicity
- 3/5
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
More about Laminaria digitata extractAcetyl hexapeptide-8~0.1–0.35%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
More about Acetyl hexapeptide-8Water~0.05–0.25%
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.05–0.2%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Carnosine~0.05–0.15%
- Irritation risk
- Low
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
More about CarnosineMineral salts~0.05–0.1%
- Irritation risk
- Low
Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin
More about Mineral saltsIngredient list view
Water, Propanediol, Corn starch modified, Glycerin, Propylheptyl caprylate, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, C10-18 triglycerides, Oryzanol, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Zinc gluconate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Sodium citrate, Salicylic acid, Parfum, Xanthan gum, Propolis extract, Propylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Adenosine, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Carnosine, Tocopherol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
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Worth comparing, line by line.
Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.
| Institut EsthedermIntensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream TubeYOUR PRODUCT | e.l.f. CosmeticsBlemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream | AvèneCicalfate Cream | SCINICHyaluronic Acid Soothing Stick | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Match | — | 76% | 74% | 72% |
| Price | $71.39 | — | $19.82−$51.57 | $14.72−$56.67 |
| Shared key ingredients | — | 2 of 6 | 1 of 6 | 3 of 6 |
| Key difference | — | Niacinamide | Mineral Oil | Madecassoside |
| Irritancy | Medium | Low | Low | Medium |
| Drying alcohol | — | — | — | — |
| View product | Shop | Shop | Shop |
Product summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Institut Esthederm - Intensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream Tube" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine, glycerin, caprylyl glycol and propylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). C10-18 triglycerides, propylheptyl caprylate and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.10% - 0.35%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Salicylic acid (0.40% - 0.90%) in this product will have an exfoliating effect and help smooth the skin. We, however, do not recommend using a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid daily to avoid over-exfoliating.
- Adenosine 0.20% - 0.75%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 54.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Sources cited in this review
Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 23 studies and safety reviews.
- 1
- 2
- 3
- 4
- 5Zinc salts in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 6
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