Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-aging
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
Doesn't work for:
based on ingredients and %- Anti-blemish
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: medium
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 1
Key actives
Product Summary
Judging from the ingredient list, "Institut Esthederm - Intensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream Tube" works well for improving skin hydration The formulation is based on a combination of good humectants and emollients. Both are needed to increase the skin hydration level. Humectants in this product (acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine, glycerin, caprylyl glycol and propylene glycol) help to increase the water content in the upper layer of the skin. (These ingredients do so by "capturing" water molecules from the outside air or from within the deeper layers of the skin). C10-18 triglycerides, propylheptyl caprylate and caprylyl glycol in this product help decrease the water evoporation from the skin, so that it stays hydrated for longer. These ingredients also soften the skin and take away the feeling of tightness and dryness.
Ingredient callouts
- This moisturizer also contains Peptides (acetyl hexapeptide-8 0.10% - 0.35%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that they are helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
- Salicylic acid (0.40% - 0.90%) in this product will have an exfoliating effect and help smooth the skin. We, however, do not recommend using a moisturizer with Salicylic Acid daily to avoid over-exfoliating.
- Adenosine 0.20% - 0.75%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Irritation risk
This moisturizer contains some common irritants, including those without a benefit for the skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be medium. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 54.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
Benefits for Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube 30ml Enhances the skin complexion. Minimizes blemishes. Smooths wrinkles. Mattifies the skin.
Source: Face the future
This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine.
These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine.
Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
An anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Intensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream Tube
Source: From product name
This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": carnosine, glycerin.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-8
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-blemish
What does the product description say?
Benefits for Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube 30ml Enhances the skin complexion. Minimizes blemishes. Smooths wrinkles. Mattifies the skin.
Source: Face the future
Effective ingredients missing or their concentration is too low.
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Anti-aging | |
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-blemish |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 66/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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| Product | Similarity | Price | Irritancy |
|---|---|---|---|
 Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis+ Skin Perfecting Cream Tube | Current | $54.00 | |
 e.l.f. Cosmetics Blemish Breakthrough Blemish Calming Water Cream | 76% | - | |
Avène Cicalfate Cream | 74% | $28.00 | |
SCINIC Hyaluronic Acid Soothing Stick | 72% | $18.40 | |
 Nuhanciam Anti-Imperfection Face Cream | 70% | $20.00 | |
 Good Molecules BHA Clarify Gel Cream | 70% | $10.00 |
Key Actives
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Potential irritants
Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Comedogenic ingredients
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
Increases thickness of a product. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions
Helps soften the skin and attract water to its upper layer. Helps create nice product texture
An anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin
Used to help oil and water mix together. Can be irritating
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin
Maintains the texture of skincare products. Allows the product to spread evenly. Helps oil and water mix together
Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products
Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)
An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients
A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating
Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating
Used to increase stability of product formulations
Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Used to thicked product formulations. Might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin
Ingredient list view
Water, Propanediol, Corn starch modified, Glycerin, Propylheptyl caprylate, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, C10-18 triglycerides, Oryzanol, Sorbitan sesquioleate, Zinc gluconate, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Sodium citrate, Salicylic acid, Parfum, Xanthan gum, Propolis extract, Propylene glycol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Adenosine, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Caprylyl glycol, Carnosine, Tocopherol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Acetyl hexapeptide-8, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Antioxidant activity of gamma-oryzanol: Mechanism of action and its effect on oxidative stability of pharmaceutical oils
- Skin Anti-aging Assays of Proanthocyanidin Rich Red Rice Extract, Oryzanol and Other Phenolic Compounds
- Sorbitan sesquioleate, a common emulsifier in topical corticosteroids, is an important contact allergen
- Zinc salts in dermatology
- An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disorders
- Zinc, copper and manganese enhanced keratinocyte migration through a functional modulation of keratinocyte integrins
- Evaluation of the effects of topical zinc gluconate in wound healing
- A polyhydroxy acid skin care regimen provides antiaging effects comparable to an alpha-hydroxyacid regimen
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review
- Beta Hydroxy Acids
- A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparations
- Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Study
- Propolis: A Wonder Bees Product and Its Pharmacological Potentials
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS technique
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health