PRODUCT REVIEW
Institut Esthederm Photo Regul Face Cream
Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Evens skin tone
- Moisturizing
- Anti-oxidation
- Anti-aging
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Can it cause trouble?
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Cheaper alternatives
What can the product work for?
Works for
Evens skin tone
What does the product description say?
This innovative daily moisturiser will regulate the pigmentation process, diffusing hyper pigmentation and brown spots for a tanned, even complexion.
glycyrrhetinic acid
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
hydrolyzed soy protein
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
LOW
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing
copper gluconate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Insufficient!
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Photo Regul Face Cream
triolein
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
artemia extract
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
aspartic acid
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
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Anti-aging
aspartic acid
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles
carnosine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
creatine
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
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Anti-oxidation
carnosine
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
glycyrrhetinic acid
0.3% -
0.55%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness: HIGH
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
creatine
0.35% -
0.65%
Irritation risk:
Concentration: Effectiveness:
MEDIUM
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
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Honesty check
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Evens skin tone |
Total Promises Fulfilled score:
75/100.
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Can it cause trouble?
- Overall product irritation risk
- Acne & comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Potential irritants
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
2.1% -
2.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
alcohol denat.
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
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Comodogenic ingredients
palmaria palmata extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
laminaria digitata extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
User reviews (0)
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| Key ingredients |
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| Irritancy | IRRITANCY
HIGH
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
| IRRITANCY
LOW
| IRRITANCY
MEDIUM
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Ingredients & concentrations
All ingredients
Key Actives
copper gluconate
0.25% -
0.45%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-blemish,
Anti-oxidation,
Exfoliation,
Evens skin tone,
Anti-aging
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
tocopherol
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Anti-oxidation,
Moisturizing,
Anti-inflammatory,
Anti-aging
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
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Potential irritants
ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate
2.1% -
2.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Sun protection
Octinoxate. When used in higher concentrations, works as a sunscreen protecting the skin from UVB rays. When used in lower concentration, helps to preserve the product formulation. Is shown to be harmful to coral reefs - consider avoiding bathing in coral reef areas when wearing a product with this ingredient. It can be irritating
alcohol denat.
0.55% -
0.8%
Irritation risk:
Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products
Show more
Comodogenic ingredients
palmaria palmata extract
0.25% -
0.5%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation
Red algae extract that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin
laminaria digitata extract
0.2% -
0.4%
Irritation risk: Comedogenicity: High
Works for:
Moisturizing,
Anti-oxidation,
Anti-aging
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
All ingredients
dicaprylyl carbonate
4.5% -
5.5%
Irritation risk:
Works for:
Moisturizing
Helps products spread more easily and works as an emollient to soften skin
ethylhexyl methoxycrylene
4.4% -
5.4%
Irritation risk:
Helps improve stability of sunscreen filters and boost their effectiveness
Show more
Ingredient list view
Water, Dicaprylyl carbonate, Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, Ethylhexyl salicylate, Glycerin, Propanediol, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Homosalate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Tribehenin peg-20 esters, Methyl methacrylate crosspolymer, Alcohol denat., Tocopheryl acetate, Paraffinum liquidum, Creatine, Parfum, Glyceryl stearate, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Methylpropanediol, Peg-100 stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/c10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, Trilinolein, Chlorphenesin, Acetyl tyrosine, Aspartic acid, Cerium oxide, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Xanthan gum, Disodium edta, Sodium dextran sulfate, Sodium hydroxide, Palmaria palmata extract, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Oleoyl tyrosine, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Butylene glycol, Triolein, Tripalmitin, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Silica, Linalool, Hexyl cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Andrographis paniculata leaf extract, Oleic acid, Medicago sativa extract, Trilinolenin, Propylene glycol, Alcohol, Limonene, Tris(tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, Tristearin, Caprylyl glycol, Benzyl benzoate, Geraniol, Copper gluconate, Citronellol, Bht, Artemia extract, Carnosine, Tocopherol, Triarachidin, Isoeugenol, Coumarin, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Citral, Laminaria digitata extract, Potassium sorbate, Ci 17200, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
Sources
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Opinion on Homosalate - Scientific Committee on Consumer Products
- A review on the extensive skin benefits of mineral oil
- Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects
- Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo
- The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivo
- Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical application
- Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatment
- 18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Cultures
- Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof
- In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activity
- Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active components
- Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmetics
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Wheat in skin care
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887
- Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cells
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity
- The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cells
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Vitamin E in dermatology