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Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube
Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube

Efficacy75/100IrritancyHigh
See all ingredients

Works for

Anti-blemish
Salicylic acid, Zinc gluconate
Works well
What the product description says
“A concentrate serum, enriched with Salicylic Acid, that treats adult blemishes for an even and clear skin tone.”
Source: Face the future

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: salicylic acid. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Salicylic acidHeroEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~2–2.4%
Zinc gluconateEffect: LowTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.3–1.6%
Evens skin tone
Salicylic acid, Zinc gluconate
Not delivered
What the product description says
“A concentrate serum, enriched with Salicylic Acid, that treats adult blemishes for an even and clear skin tone.”
Source: Face the future

This product might help improve the skin tone through exfoliation. In other words, it helps to speed up the shedding of cells from the upper layer of the skin, and this might help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Salicylic acidEffect: LowUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~2–2.4%
Zinc gluconateEffect: LowTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.3–1.6%
Anti-oxidation
Not advertised by the brand · Carnosine, Zinc gluconate + 3 more
Works well

This product contains antioxidants (carnosine) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.3–0.55%
Zinc gluconateEffect: LowTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.3–1.6%
Propolis extractEffect: LowA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.95–1.15%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.45%
TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Exfoliation
Not advertised by the brand · Salicylic acid, Zinc gluconate
Works well

This product can help exfoliate the skin. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. The following ingredient is doing the exfoliating job in this product: salicylic acid.

Salicylic acidKey activeEffect: HighUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)~2–2.4%
Zinc gluconateEffect: LowTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.3–1.6%
Anti-aging
Not advertised by the brand · Carnosine, Zinc gluconate + 2 more
May help

This product contains carnosine. This ingredient might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.3–0.55%
Zinc gluconateEffect: LowTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.3–1.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.45%
Moisturizing
Not advertised by the brand · Propylheptyl caprylate, Zinc gluconate + 9 more
Works

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: carnosine, propylene glycol.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: jojoba esters, cetyl alcohol.

Propylheptyl caprylateKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~4–4.9%
Zinc gluconateKey activeEffect: HighTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin~1.3–1.6%
Propolis extractKey activeEffect: MediumA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating~0.95–1.15%
Jojoba estersKey active· EmollientEffect: HighAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function~0.55–0.8%
Cetyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together~0.55–0.8%
CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.3–0.55%
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin~1.1–1.4%
C13-14 isoparaffin· EmollientEffect: LowHelps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency~0.5–0.75%
Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.3–0.6%
TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.3–0.5%
Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.25–0.45%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy
6 strong irritants: Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl cinnamate + 4 more — patch-test recommended
High risk
We flagged 18 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.
IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount
Salicylic acidUsed for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)High~2–2.4%est.
Propolis extractA complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritatingHigh~0.95–1.15%est.
Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.3–0.6%est.
Benzyl alcoholA preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.
Benzyl benzoateFragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.3%est.
Benzyl cinnamateFragrance. Can be irritatingHigh~0.15–0.25%est.
Benzyl salicylateA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.2%est.
Cinnamyl alcohol—High~0.1–0.2%est.
EugenolA fragrance. Is a likely irritantHigh~0.1–0.15%est.
Isoeugenol—High~0.05–0.15%est.
MethylpropanediolHelps dissolve other ingredients in a formulationMedium~3–3.7%est.
Potassium cetyl phosphateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~1.9–2.3%est.
Zinc gluconateTypically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skinMedium~1.3–1.6%est.
Polyglyceryl-6 distearateHelps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skinMedium~1.1–1.4%est.
PolyacrylamideUsed to improve product texture and help oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.55–0.85%est.
Jojoba estersAn emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier functionMedium~0.55–0.8%est.
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswaxHelps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)Medium~0.5–0.75%est.
Laureth-7Helps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.35–0.6%est.
Comedogenic
1 ingredient rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale
1 flagged
These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.
IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount
Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.25–0.45%est.
Alternatives
Cheaper, or higher on efficacy
Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil
Facetheory Centasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose Oil
Higher efficacy · 87/10086% match
Salicylic Acid Ampoules
REVOLUTION SKINCARE Salicylic Acid Ampoules
Higher efficacy · 100/10086% match
$11.50
View all alternatives

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Plain old water

More about Water
Propanediol~4.9–6%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol
Propylheptyl caprylate~4–4.9%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Propylheptyl caprylate
Methylpropanediol~3–3.7%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Helps dissolve other ingredients in a formulation

More about Methylpropanediol
Salicylic acid~2–2.4%
Hero · Anti-blemishIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Anti-inflammatoryAnti-blemishExfoliationAntibacterialEvens skin tone

Used for skin exfoliation. It has an anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial effect, helps to unclog pores, prevent blemishes and speed up healing of the existing ones. Sometimes referred to as a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid)

More about Salicylic acid
Potassium cetyl phosphate~1.9–2.3%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Potassium cetyl phosphate
Silica~1.8–2.2%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica
Zinc gluconate~1.3–1.6%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationExfoliationAnti-blemish

Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing. Due to the zinc content, might help calm down inflammation in skin

More about Zinc gluconate
Polyglyceryl-6 distearate~1.1–1.4%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together while softening the upper layer of the skin

More about Polyglyceryl-6 distearate
Propolis extract~0.95–1.15%
Key activeIrritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAntibacterial

A complex substance produced by honey bees. Can have anti-bacterial and some anti-oxidant effect. Is an allergen and can be irritating

More about Propolis extract
Xanthan gum~0.7–1%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum
Sodium hydroxide~0.6–0.9%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to adjust the product's pH

More about Sodium hydroxide
Polyacrylamide~0.55–0.85%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium

Used to improve product texture and help oil and water mix together

More about Polyacrylamide
Jojoba esters~0.55–0.8%
Key activeIrritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Moisturizing

An emollient made of jojoba oil. Helps soften the skin and support its barrier function

More about Jojoba esters
C13-14 isoparaffin~0.5–0.75%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin, dissolve other ingredients and create a thicker product consistency

More about C13-14 isoparaffin
Cetyl alcohol~0.55–0.8%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together

More about Cetyl alcohol
Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax~0.5–0.75%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps water and oil mix together. Could be an allergen (beeswax)

More about Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax
Aminoethanesulfinic acid~0.45–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Aminoethanesulfinic acid
Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate~0.4–0.65%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low

Used to increase stability of product formulations

More about Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Propylene glycol~0.3–0.6%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
Works for
Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol
Laureth-7~0.35–0.6%
Irritant · medium
Irritation risk
Medium
Works for
Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Laureth-7
Carnosine~0.3–0.55%
Key active
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine
Tocopherol~0.3–0.5%
Under-dosed
Irritation risk
Low
Works for
Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryAnti-aging

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol
Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.25–0.5%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate
Laminaria digitata extract~0.25–0.45%
Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5
Irritation risk
Low
Comedogenicity
3/5
Works for
MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract
Benzyl alcohol~0.2–0.4%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A preservative. Can be used to mask unpleasant smell. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl alcohol
Anise alcohol~0.2–0.35%
Formula
Irritation risk
Low
More about Anise alcohol
Benzyl benzoate~0.15–0.3%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance with sweet balsamic smell. Help to preserve products and dissolve other ingredients. Could trigger allergic reactions and be irritating

More about Benzyl benzoate
Benzyl cinnamate~0.15–0.25%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

Fragrance. Can be irritating

More about Benzyl cinnamate
Benzyl salicylate~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Benzyl salicylate
Cinnamyl alcohol~0.1–0.2%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Cinnamyl alcohol
Eugenol~0.1–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High

A fragrance. Is a likely irritant

More about Eugenol
Isoeugenol~0.05–0.15%
Irritant · high
Irritation risk
High
More about Isoeugenol
Ingredient list view

Water, Propanediol, Propylheptyl caprylate, Methylpropanediol, Salicylic acid, Potassium cetyl phosphate, Silica, Zinc gluconate, Polyglyceryl-6 distearate, Propolis extract, Xanthan gum, Sodium hydroxide, Polyacrylamide, Jojoba esters, C13-14 isoparaffin, Cetyl alcohol, Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Propylene glycol, Laureth-7, Carnosine, Tocopherol, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Laminaria digitata extract, Benzyl alcohol, Anise alcohol, Benzyl benzoate, Benzyl cinnamate, Benzyl salicylate, Cinnamyl alcohol, Eugenol, Isoeugenol

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
Institut EsthedermIntensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum TubeYOUR PRODUCTBeautycounterCountermatch Intense Moisture SerumFacetheoryCentasoothe Serum S5 with Dragon's Blood, Centella Asiatica and Evening Primrose OilHonest BeautyIn The Clear Acne Serum
Match—87%86%86%
Price————
Shared key ingredients—2 of 51 of 51 of 5
Key difference—Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateSodium Ascorbyl PhosphateAzelaic Acid
Irritancy High Medium Medium Low
Drying alcohol— Contains drying alcohol ——
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Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 20 studies and safety reviews.

  1. 1
    Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive reviewncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  2. 2
    Beta Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
  3. 3
    A review of toxicity from topical salicylic acid preparationssciencedirect.com
  4. 4
    Glycolic Acid Peels Versus Salicylic–Mandelic Acid Peels in Active Acne Vulgaris and Post‐Acne Scarring and Hyperpigmentation: A Comparative Studyonlinelibrary.wiley.com
  5. 5
    Zinc salts in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. 6
    An overview of zinc and its importance in dermatology-Part II: The association of zinc with some dermatologic disordersoatext.com
Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube
Institut EsthedermIntensive Propolis+ Concentrate Serum Tube
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