Institut Esthederm

Institut Esthederm EXCELLAGE SERUM

Name: Institut Esthederm - EXCELLAGE SERUM
Brand: Institut Esthederm

Efficacy75/100IrritancyMedium

See all ingredients

Works for

Moisturizing

Niacinamide, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1 + 32 more

Works well

What the product description says

“This product is for more mature and dry skins.”

Source: Naos Store

This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.

The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water. When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job: anhydroxylitol, artemia extract.

This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: dimethicone, peg-10 dimethicone.

The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: niacinamide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1

NiacinamideHeroEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Hero· EmollientEffect: HighA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

DimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish~5.5–6.7%

GlycerinKey active· HumectantEffect: HighOne of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant~4.2–5.1%

Sodium pcaKey active· HumectantEffect: HighNaturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer~3–3.7%

Peg-10 dimethiconeKey active· Emollient, OcclusiveEffect: HighA silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss~2–2.5%

TriethylhexanoinKey activeEffect: HighHelps soften the upper layer of the skin~1–1.3%

XylitylglucosideKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function~0.75–1.15%

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineKey activeEffect: MediumIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.6–0.9%

AnhydroxylitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function~0.35–0.6%

Cetearyl alcoholKey active· EmollientEffect: MediumA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture~0.3–0.55%

MannitolKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Sodium lactateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product~0.25–0.45%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

GlucoseKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function~0.25–0.45%

Asiatic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.4%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.35%

CarnosineKey active· HumectantEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%

Kappaphycus alvarezii extractKey activeEffect: HighA red algae extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties~0.2–0.4%

Madecassic acidKey activeEffect: HighAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Saccharide isomerateKey active· HumectantEffect: HighHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin~0.2–0.35%

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinKey active· HumectantEffect: MediumCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten~0.2–0.4%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: MediumMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Artemia extractKey active· HumectantEffect: HighZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%

Batyl alcohol· EmollientEffect: LowNon-drying alcohol. Used to stabilize other ingredients and is an emollient~0.25–0.5%

Butylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowUsed to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.45%

Caprylyl glycol· Humectant, EmollientEffect: LowHelps preserve products and creates a nice product texture~0.25–0.5%

Propylene glycol· HumectantEffect: LowHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating~0.2–0.4%

Stearic acidEffect: Low, below effective doseHelps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient~0.35–0.65%

LecithinEffect: Low, below effective doseUsed mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin~0.25–0.5%

TocopherolEffect: Low, below effective dosePure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Caprylic/capric triglycerideUnder-dosedA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin~0.3–0.55%

Laminaria digitata extractUnder-dosedSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.1–0.2%

Anti-aging

Niacinamide, Adenosine + 9 more

Works well

What the product description says

“, protects against oxidative stress patented Global Cellular Protection, technology counters free radicals and protects skin from photo-ageing and from environmental aggressions.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because it contains adenosine, niacinamide.

These ingredients in the product can also be helpful, even though there is less evidence for their effectiveness: asiaticoside, carnosine, creatine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1.

Keep in mind that it typically takes at least 6 weeks to notice any results because the changes that are needed to improve fine lines and elasticity happen in the deeper layers of the skin. No topical anti-aging product can “erase” wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging.

NiacinamideKey activeEffect: HighIs proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production~1.6–2%

AdenosineKey activeEffect: HighMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

AsiaticosideKey activeEffect: MediumAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating~0.2–0.35%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.2–0.4%

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.15–0.3%

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7Key activeEffect: MediumA type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles~0.1–0.2%

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyprolineEffect: LowIs claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness~0.6–0.9%

Laminaria digitata extractEffect: Low, below effective doseSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment~0.1–0.2%

Ascorbic acidUnder-dosedThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging~0.1–0.2%

Evens skin tone

Niacinamide, Glycyrrhetinic acid + 2 more

Works well

What the product description says

“After 28 days, 96% of women reported their complexion is more even.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product can help reduce hypepigmentation and even out the skin tone because it contains the following effective ingredients: niacinamide

The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually can help even out the skin tone: glycyrrhetinic acid.

Keep in mind that you would need to apply any topical skincare targetted at hypigmentation consistently for a couple of months to get a result. No topical skincare product can help get rid of hyperpigmentation (including post-acne marks and age spots) instantly.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: MediumActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.25–0.5%

Hydrolyzed soy proteinEffect: LowHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing~0.25–0.45%

Exfoliation

No ingredient credited for this claim

Not delivered

What the product description says

“, restores radiance and unifies the complexion a plant derived glyco-biopolymer smooths the micro-surface, visibly improves the skin texture and revives its natural radiance.”

Source: Cocoon Center

This product does not contain effective exfoliating ingredients. It might be able to deliver physical exfoliation, that is scrub off some of the dead cells on the surface of the skin. We do not recommend physical exfoliation, because it is not uniform (some bits of skin can get exfoliated too much while others not at all). It can also traumatize the skin and aggrevate acne and other skin conditions.

Anti-blemish

Not advertised by the brand · Niacinamide

Works well

This product can help reduce breakouts and clogged pores because it contains the following ingredient: niacinamide. This ingredient is used for treating acne and can have a noticeable effect.

Anti-oxidation

Not advertised by the brand · Glycyrrhetinic acid, Carnosine + 10 more

Works well

This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.

Glycyrrhetinic acidKey activeEffect: HighActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation~0.25–0.5%

CarnosineKey activeEffect: HighA type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage~0.2–0.4%

CreatineKey activeEffect: MediumCan support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness~0.2–0.4%

AdenosineEffect: LowMight help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)~0.2–0.4%

Kappaphycus alvarezii extractEffect: LowA red algae extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties~0.2–0.4%

Artemia extractEffect: LowZooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect~0.15–0.25%

TocopherolUnder-dosedPure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself~0.2–0.4%

Can it cause trouble?

Irritancy

2 strong irritants: Alcohol denat., Parfum

Medium risk

We flagged 15 ingredients with irritancy potential. Severity depends on your sensitivity threshold; the table lists the worst offenders first.

IngredientFunctionIrritationEst. amount

Alcohol denat.Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve productsHigh~1.3–1.6%est.

ParfumAn aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredientsHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Propylene glycolHelps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritatingHigh~0.2–0.4%est.

Ascorbic acidThe most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of agingHigh~0.1–0.2%est.

TriethylhexanoinHelps soften the upper layer of the skinMedium~1–1.3%est.

Glycyrrhetinic acidActive compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentationMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Caprylyl glycolHelps preserve products and creates a nice product textureMedium~0.25–0.5%est.

Hydrolyzed wheat proteinCan help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to glutenMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

AsiaticosideAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.35%est.

Madecassic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Asiatic acidAn active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritatingMedium~0.2–0.4%est.

Caprylic/capric triglycerideA good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerinMedium~0.3–0.55%est.

Sodium lactateHelps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the productMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearateHelps oil and water mix togetherMedium~0.25–0.45%est.

Ci 17200A red colorantMedium~0.05–0.1%est.

Comedogenic

3 ingredients rated 2 or more on the 0–5 pore-clogging scale

3 flagged

These ingredients have a comedogenic rating of 2 or more on a 0–5 scale; the table shows each one's rating. In leave-on products they can clog pores in acne-prone skin.

IngredientFunctionRatingEst. amount

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearateHelps oil and water mix together3/5~0.25–0.45%est.

Laminaria digitata extractSeaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment3/5~0.1–0.2%est.

Cetearyl alcoholA non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture2/5~0.3–0.55%est.

Alternatives

Cheaper, or higher on efficacy

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Purito SEOUL Centella Green Level Buffet Serum

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Ingredients

Filter by role to see what each ingredient is doing.

Water~45–55%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Plain old water

More about Water

Dimethicone~5.5–6.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingMattifying

A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish

More about Dimethicone

Glycerin~4.2–5.1%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant

More about Glycerin

Sodium pca~3–3.7%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer

More about Sodium pca

Silica~2.5–3%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Used to absorb oil and can temporarily mattify skin

More about Silica

Peg-10 dimethicone~2–2.5%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

A silicone that works to soften the upper layer of the skin and reduce its water loss

More about Peg-10 dimethicone

Niacinamide~1.6–2%

Hero · Moisturizing, Anti-blemish

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-blemishMoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-agingReduces irritationAntibacterialReduces rednessAnti-inflammatory

Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture. The concentration of about 2% is effective for supporting the skin barrier and evening out the skin tone. Concentration of 4-6% is better for helping with acne and balancing the sebum production

More about Niacinamide

Alcohol denat.~1.3–1.6%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Produces temporary toning effect. Can help dissolve other ingredients or preserve products

More about Alcohol denat.

Triethylhexanoin~1–1.3%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Triethylhexanoin

Xylitylglucoside~0.75–1.15%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitylglucoside

Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline~0.6–0.9%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Is claimed to stimulate collagen and elastin production, as well as work as an anti-oxidant. There is however not enough evidence for its effectiveness

More about Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline

Dipropylene glycol~0.5–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps to dissolve other ingredients in a formulation. Slows down the rate of product drying

More about Dipropylene glycol

Propanediol~0.45–0.7%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Acts as a solvent for other ingredients. Speeds up the absorption of other ingredients into the skin

More about Propanediol

Camellia japonica seed oil~0.45–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A plant oil that helps to soften the upper layer of the skin and can help restore skin's barrier function. Might have an anti-oxidant effect

More about Camellia japonica seed oil

Anhydroxylitol~0.35–0.6%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrir function

More about Anhydroxylitol

Disteardimonium hectorite~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A type of clay that is used to thicken the product consistency

More about Disteardimonium hectorite

Titanium dioxide~0.5–0.75%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

Works as a UV filter when used in high concentrations. It is photostable and is effective mostly against the UVB light, with some protection in the UVA range. In small concentrations, used for its ability to improve the color of cosmetic products. Is usually well tolerated by the skin

More about Titanium dioxide

Ci 77891~0.35–0.6%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Ci 77891

Glycyrrhetinic acid~0.25–0.5%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryEvens skin tone

Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation

More about Glycyrrhetinic acid

Mannitol~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Mannitol

Cetearyl alcohol~0.3–0.55%

Key activeComedogenic 2/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 2/5

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture

More about Cetearyl alcohol

Caesalpinia sappan extract~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Caesalpinia sappan extract

Xylitol~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function

More about Xylitol

Butylene glycol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Butylene glycol

Caprylyl glycol~0.25–0.5%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture

More about Caprylyl glycol

Hexanediol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Helps dissolve other ingredients

More about Hexanediol

Sodium dextran sulfate~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Sodium dextran sulfate

Batyl alcohol~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

AntibacterialMoisturizing

Non-drying alcohol. Used to stabilize other ingredients and is an emollient

More about Batyl alcohol

Stearic acid~0.35–0.65%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and works as an emollient

More about Stearic acid

Mica~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Creates an illusion of smoother and more radiant skin tone. Adds shimmer to the skin by reflecting light

More about Mica

Hydrolyzed soy protein~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingEvens skin toneAnti-oxidationAnti-inflammatory

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might have some anti-aging, anti-oxidant, and skin lightening properties, but solid evidence is missing

More about Hydrolyzed soy protein

Glucose~0.25–0.45%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function

More about Glucose

Creatine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-aging

Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness

More about Creatine

Parfum~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients

More about Parfum

Kappaphycus alvarezii extract~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

A red algae extract that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might have some antioxidant properties

More about Kappaphycus alvarezii extract

Hydrolyzed wheat protein~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Avoid if sensitive to gluten

More about Hydrolyzed wheat protein

Iron oxides~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Sun protection

An umbrella term for the following three colorants: CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499. They might be able to offer some protection against visible light, but the degree of the protection is not clear

More about Iron oxides

Ci 77491~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A red colorant made of iron oxide. Typically is not irritating

More about Ci 77491

Propylene glycol~0.2–0.4%

Irritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps oil and water mix together and can enhance the penetration of other ingredients into the skin. It can be irritating

More about Propylene glycol

Adenosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-agingMoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to help reduce dynamic wrinkles (for example, in the corners of the eyes or on the forehead)

More about Adenosine

Asiaticoside~0.2–0.35%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-agingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiaticoside

Madecassic acid~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Madecassic acid

Phenoxyethanol~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

A preservative. It helps prevent bacterial growth in cosmetic products

More about Phenoxyethanol

Asiatic acid~0.2–0.4%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-inflammatoryReduces irritation

An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating

More about Asiatic acid

Caprylic/capric triglyceride~0.3–0.55%

Under-dosedIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin

More about Caprylic/capric triglyceride

Lecithin~0.25–0.5%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

CleansingMoisturizing

Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin

More about Lecithin

Carbomer~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps create a thicker or gel-like product texture. It is not a surfactant but can be used in gentle cleansing formulations

More about Carbomer

Sodium lactate~0.25–0.45%

Key activeIrritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product

More about Sodium lactate

Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate~0.25–0.45%

Comedogenic 3/5Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate

Polysorbate 20~0.25–0.45%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Helps oil and water mix together

More about Polysorbate 20

Carnosine~0.2–0.4%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationMoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage

More about Carnosine

Tocopherol~0.2–0.4%

Under-dosed

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Anti-oxidationAnti-inflammatoryAnti-agingMoisturizing

Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself

More about Tocopherol

Xanthan gum~0.2–0.4%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Cleansing

Used to create a thicker product consistency

More about Xanthan gum

Disodium adenosine triphosphate~0.2–0.35%

Formula

Irritation risk: Low

More about Disodium adenosine triphosphate

Saccharide isomerate~0.2–0.35%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

Moisturizing

Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin

More about Saccharide isomerate

Artemia extract~0.15–0.25%

Key active

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidation

Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect

More about Artemia extract

Laminaria digitata extract~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedComedogenic 3/5

Irritation risk: Low
Comedogenicity: 3/5

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-oxidationAnti-aging

Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment

More about Laminaria digitata extract

Ascorbic acid~0.1–0.2%

Under-dosedIrritant · high

Irritation risk: High

Works for

Anti-agingAnti-oxidationEvens skin tone

The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging

More about Ascorbic acid

Palmitoyl tripeptide-1~0.15–0.3%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7~0.1–0.2%

Hero · Moisturizing

Irritation risk: Low

Works for

MoisturizingAnti-aging

A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles

More about Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7

Ci 17200~0.05–0.1%

Irritant · medium

Irritation risk: Medium

A red colorant

More about Ci 17200

Ingredient list view

Water, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Sodium pca, Silica, Peg-10 dimethicone, Niacinamide, Alcohol denat., Triethylhexanoin, Xylitylglucoside, Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, Dipropylene glycol, Propanediol, Camellia japonica seed oil, Anhydroxylitol, Disteardimonium hectorite, Titanium dioxide, Ci 77891, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Mannitol, Cetearyl alcohol, Caesalpinia sappan extract, Xylitol, Butylene glycol, Caprylyl glycol, Hexanediol, Sodium dextran sulfate, Batyl alcohol, Stearic acid, Mica, Hydrolyzed soy protein, Glucose, Creatine, Parfum, Kappaphycus alvarezii extract, Hydrolyzed wheat protein, Iron oxides, Ci 77491, Propylene glycol, Adenosine, Asiaticoside, Madecassic acid, Phenoxyethanol, Asiatic acid, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Lecithin, Carbomer, Sodium lactate, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Tocopherol, Xanthan gum, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Saccharide isomerate, Artemia extract, Laminaria digitata extract, Ascorbic acid, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Ci 17200

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Worth comparing, line by line.

Match % combines shared ingredients, the first five ingredients, shared actives and hero ingredients, irritancy (lower counts in the alternative's favour), texture and body area. Only products in the same routine step are compared.

Side-by-side comparison of this product against its closest alternatives
	Institut EsthedermEXCELLAGE SERUMYOUR PRODUCT	ISNTREEHyper Retinol EX 1.0 Serum	Purito SEOULCentella Green Level Buffet Serum	NIDASalmon PDRN Peptide Serum
Match	—	79%	78%	77%
Price	—	$13.71	$7.90	$13.32
Shared key ingredients	—	10 of 25	8 of 25	5 of 25
Key difference	—	Retinol	Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12	Copper Tripeptide-1
Irritancy	Medium	Medium	Medium	Low
Drying alcohol	Contains drying alcohol	—	—	—
	View product	Shop	Shop	Shop

More alternatives: Vitabrid Wrinkle Serum Carenology 95 RE:BLUE Deep Concentrate Ampoule

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Product summary

"Institut Esthederm - EXCELLAGE SERUM" is effective for: Anti-blemish, Anti-inflammatory, Moisturizing, Anti-aging and Evens skin tone

Ingredient callouts

A good concentration of Niacinamide (1.60% - 2.00%). Niacinamide is a well-studied multi-tasking active. It is stable, and can work well in almost any hydrating formulation. There is solid evidence that Niacinamide can help support skin barrier, regulate oil production and reduce acne and clogged pores. It also helps to fight photodamage and improve the skin tone, reducing pigmentation marks.
This product also contains Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid). It can be an effective active for anti-aging and evening out the skin tone, but in this product it is used for stabilizing other ingredients in the formulation. In this concentration (0.10% - 0.20%) it cannot have a noticeable benefit for the skin.
Peptides (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.10% - 0.20% and palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.15% - 0.30%). Peptides are a very big group of ingredients. They all consist of a different combination of aminoacids. Our skin produces Peptides naturally. Some of them work as natural antibiotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The scientists are still studying how effective the topical application of Peptides is, but it is very likely that theynare helpful. Peptides might be able to support skin barrier restoration and even have an anti-aging benefit. At the very least, they certainly help attract water to the skin and support the hydration in this way.
Adenosine 0.20% - 0.40%. It is a compound that in involved in many biological processes inside the skin cells. According one high-quality clinical trial, topical Adenosine in low concentrations can somewhat help improve "deep wrinkles" - the wrinkles that appear with age in places where our faces are most dynamic (for example, on the forehead or in the corners of the eyes).
Actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (also known as Gotu Kola) - asiatic acid 0.20% - 0.40%, madecassic acid 0.20% - 0.40% and asiaticoside 0.20% - 0.35% The Centella Asiatica Actives, even in low concentration, can help reduce inflammation in skin, strengthen the skin barrier and reduce photodamage. They can also help to decrease scarring.
Humectants (artemia extract 0.15% - 0.25%, saccharide isomerate 0.20% - 0.35%, carnosine 0.20% - 0.40%, sodium lactate 0.25% - 0.45%, mannitol 0.25% - 0.45%, xylitylglucoside 0.75% - 1.15%, sodium pca 3.00% - 3.70%, anhydroxylitol 0.35% - 0.60% and glycerin 4.20% - 5.10%). These ingredients help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve the skin hydration.

Price

The product retails from 61.03£ up to 109.00£ in the United Kingdom.

For a detailed price comparison: click here.

Sources cited in this review

Every concentration estimate and effectiveness label is anchored to one of these 30 studies and safety reviews.

1
Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medicationsjaad.org
2
Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyoljournals.sagepub.com
3
Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functionsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
4
Niacinamide - mechanisms of action and its topical use in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
5
Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. doi:10.1111/j.1473-2130.2004.00115.x ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
6
Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
7
Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical applicationncbi.nlm.nih.gov
8
Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatmentonlinelibrary.wiley.com
9
18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Culturesar.iiarjournals.org
10
Extracts from Glycine max (soybean) induce elastin synthesis and inhibit elastase activityonlinelibrary.wiley.com
11
Dermatological and cosmeceutical benefits of Glycine max (soybean) and its active componentsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
12
Safety Assessment of Soy Peptides as Used in Cosmeticscir-safety.org
13
Topical Glucose Induces Claudin-1 and Filaggrin Expression in a Mouse Model of Atopic Dermatitis and in Keratinocyte Culture, Exerting Anti-inflammatory Effects by Repairing Skin Barrier Functionncbi.nlm.nih.gov
14
Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjectsncbi.nlm.nih.gov
15
Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivoncbi.nlm.nih.gov
16
The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivosciencedirect.com
17
Wheat in skin caremdedge.com
18
Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitisncbi.nlm.nih.gov
19
Propylene Glycolpubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
20
Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
21
Evaluation of anti-wrinkle efficacy of adenosine-containing products using the FOITS techniquencbi.nlm.nih.gov
22
Centella asiatica in cosmetologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
23
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
24
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
25
Contact dermatitis due to Madecassolonlinelibrary.wiley.com
26
Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overviewonlinelibrary.wiley.com
27
Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care productssciencedirect.com
28
Vitamin E in dermatologyncbi.nlm.nih.gov
29
Vitamin E and Skin Healthlpi.oregonstate.edu
30
The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cellsncbi.nlm.nih.gov

Institut EsthedermEXCELLAGE SERUM

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