Institut Esthederm E.V.E. "Essential Vital Elements" Serum Source

Name: Institut Esthederm - E.V.E. "Essential Vital Elements" Serum Source
Brand: Institut Esthederm

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WORKS FOR

Anti-oxidation
Anti-aging
Moisturizing

KEY INGREDIENTS

lactic acid
niacinamide
ascorbic acid
adenosine
alanine
alanyl glutamine
arginine hcl
aspartic acid
calcium pantothenate
cyanocobalamin
diglycerin
folic acid
glucose
glutamic acid
glycerin
glycine
histidine hcl
hydroxyproline
inositol
isoleucine
lysine hcl
proline
serine
sodium hyaluronate
sodium lactate
thioctic acid
threonine
tyrosine
+25 more

PROMISES
FULFILLED

75 /100

IRRITANCY

MEDIUM

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In stock $119.00

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Formula review

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What does the product description say?

"Rather than creating a serum full of ingredients already know to be anti-aging Institut Esthederm has focused on adding substances found in the skin tissue itself."

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WIMJ summary

This product contains adenosine, alanyl glutamine, aspartic acid, folic acid, serine, threonine. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
adenosine	MEDIUM
alanyl glutamine	MEDIUM
aspartic acid	MEDIUM

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What does the product description say?

"including 21 amino acids, 6 minerals salts, 6 trace elements, 9 vitamins, 3 carbohydrates, 5 nucleopeptides and 1 peptide."

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WIMJ summary

This product contains good ingredients to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. These ingredients are called "humectants": alanine, alanyl glutamine.

When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from within deeper layers of the skin. If the air is dry, humectants can speed up the moisture loss from the skin. This is why it is a good idea to use another product on top of this one to help "seal in" the moisture (look for ingredients like dimethicone, squalane, oils and butters).

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
alanyl glutamine	HIGH
serine	HIGH
sodium hyaluronate	HIGH

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WIMJ summary

This product contains antioxidants (thioctic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).

Ingredient	Effectiveness	Concentration	Irritancy
thioctic acid	HIGH
adenosine	LOW
pyridoxine hcl	LOW

Potential irritants

IRRITANCY

MEDIUM

Ingredient	Irritancy	Skin Benefit
lactic acid
sodium citrate
sodium lauroyl glutamate

Ingredients by volume

Ingredient	Estimated concentration
water Plain old water	45% - 55%
maltodextrin Used to stabilize the product formulation and can help absorb oil	5.3% - 6.5%
glycerin One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant	4.4% - 5.4%
sodium hyaluronate One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Attracts water into the upper layer of the skin	3.2% - 3.9%
xylitol Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and repair the skin barrier function	2.4% - 3%
glucose Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Could be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function	2% - 2.5%
alanyl glutamine A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles	1.7% - 2%
lactic acid An exfoliating and moisturizing alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA). Typically causes less irritation than other AHAs, for example, glycolic acid. At high concentrations (about 15%), lactic acid can help reduce lines and wrinkles. Recent studies show that lactic acid can support the "good" bacteria living on skin's surface (healthy skin microbiom)	1.4% - 1.8%
sodium citrate Helps to control the skin's pH level. Maintains the skin's natural film of amino-lactic acids and oils. Helps to preserve products	1.2% - 1.4%
sodium lauroyl glutamate Used as a cleansing agent. It creates foam	0.95% - 1.15%
decyl glucoside Helps oil and water mix together. Can be irritating	0.75% - 1.15%
diglycerin Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin	0.55% - 0.85%
arginine hcl An amino acid that is naturally present in skin and helps keep it hydrated. When used together with AHAs, it can reduce their irritating effect on the skin	0.5% - 0.75%
lactis proteinum	0.45% - 0.65%
whey protein A protein derived from milk. In skincare products, might help to soften the upper layer of the skin	0.45% - 0.7%
serine An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles	0.4% - 0.6%
leucine	0.4% - 0.6%
magnesium chloride Helps thicken the product formulation	0.35% - 0.6%
potassium chloride	0.3% - 0.6%
valine	0.3% - 0.5%
sodium pyruvate	0.25% - 0.5%
lysine hcl	0.25% - 0.5%
histidine hcl A salt of an amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in restoring the skin barrier function	0.25% - 0.45%
proline	0.25% - 0.5%
cysteine hcl	0.25% - 0.5%
hydroxyproline Is helpful in restoring skin barrier function supporting its moisture levels. Is claimed to stimulte collagen production in skin but evidence is lacking	0.25% - 0.45%
glutamic acid An amino-acid that helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin	0.25% - 0.5%
asparagine	0.25% - 0.45%
cyanocobalamin Can support skin barrier function and reduce inflammation in skin	0.25% - 0.45%
threonine An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin. In combination with other amino-acids, might help to reduce fine lines and wrinkles	0.25% - 0.5%
inositol	0.25% - 0.5%
adenine	0.25% - 0.45%
alanine An amino-acid that helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and might help to lighten the skin, but solid evidence is lacking	0.25% - 0.45%
aspartic acid An amino-acid that helps increase skin hydration and might help to slightly improve skin firmness, potentially reducing lines and wrinkles	0.25% - 0.45%
glycine Helps to attract water to the upper layer of the skin and can help restore the skin barrier function	0.25% - 0.45%
methionine	0.25% - 0.45%
tyrosine	0.25% - 0.45%
phenylalanine	0.25% - 0.5%
tryptophan	0.25% - 0.5%
isoleucine An amino acid that can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin and support skin's barrier function	0.25% - 0.45%
sodium sulfate Used to improve the product consistency and stabilize formulations	0.3% - 0.5%
folic acid Can help stimulate collagen production in skin. While available studies are promising, more research is needed to confirm the efficacy in skin	0.25% - 0.45%
ferrous sulfate	0.25% - 0.5%
calcium pantothenate Helps support skin barrier function improving skin hydration and reducing sensitivity	0.25% - 0.5%
thiamine hcl Can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is studied as a mosquito repellent	0.25% - 0.45%
pyridoxine hcl Might help neutralize free radicals in skin	0.25% - 0.45%
niacinamide Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It helps the skin to repair sun damage, calm down inflammation and keep maintain good levels of moisture	0.25% - 0.5%
ascorbic acid The most well-researched antioxidant that works in skin. Helps neutralize free radicals supporting collagen production, helping to even out the skin tone and preventing early signs of aging	0.25% - 0.5%
thymidine	0.25% - 0.45%
thioctic acid	0.25% - 0.5%
riboflavin	0.25% - 0.45%
sodium metasilicate	0.25% - 0.5%
zinc sulfate A preservative. It can be irritating	0.25% - 0.45%
adenosine Might help improve cell turnover and reduce inflammation in skin. One study shows that the ingredients might be able to stimulate collagen production in skin	0.25% - 0.45%
guanine	0.3% - 0.5%
ribose	0.25% - 0.45%
biotin Might have some moisturising properties. Is not effective when applied topically beyond some moisturizing effect	0.25% - 0.45%
ammonium molybdate	0.25% - 0.5%
ammonium vanadate	0.25% - 0.5%
copper sulfate	0.25% - 0.45%
manganese chloride	0.25% - 0.5%
sea salt Used to thicken the product formulation and might help to add minerals to the surface of the skin. It is used in scrubs as a physical exfoliant. Can increase sensitivity to other ingredients if left on the skin or used in high concentration	0.25% - 0.45%
sodium lactate Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product	0.25% - 0.45%
aminoethanesulfinic acid	0.25% - 0.45%
citric acid Can work as an exfoliant but is typically used to adjust the product pH	0.25% - 0.45%
sodium acetate	0.2% - 0.4%
leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate A preservative that comes from radishes fermented by a bacteria. New research suggests that the preservation properties in the ingredient come from an ammonium salt that is not present naturally in radish root but used in its cultivation. Is problematic because the exact amount of the preservative agents is difficult to determine	0.2% - 0.35%
salix alba bark extract A plant extract that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. It contains a compound salicin that can theoretically be converted into salicylic acid that, in turn, helps reduce inflammation in skin, but the evidence of effectiveness in skin is lacking and the extract is usually not used in a concentration that would enable an exfoliating effect	0.2% - 0.35%
polyglyceryl-4 caprylate	0.2% - 0.4%
disodium phosphate Helps adjust the product pH and stabilize the formulation	0.1% - 0.2%
sodium benzoate A preservative	0.1% - 0.2%
potassium sorbate A preservative	0.15% - 0.25%
parfum An aromatic blend of unspecified and possibly irritating ingredients	0.05% - 0.05%
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