Works for:
based on ingredients and %- Moisturizing
- Anti-aging
- Anti-oxidation
- Evens skin tone
Can it cause trouble?
- Irritation risk: high
- Comedogenic risk ingredients: 2
Key actives
Product Summary
"Institut Esthederm - AFTER SUN REPAIR FIRMING ANTI-WRINKLE FACE CARE" is a well-rounded moisturizing product. This moisturizer uses a good combo of humectants and emollients. These both types of ingredients are essentials for improving the skin hydration and keeping the skin barrier healthy. Artemia extract, carnosine, dextran, glycerin and sodium lactate in this product (humectants) attract water molecules to the upper layer of the skin (the water comes from the outside air or from the deeper layers of the skin if the air is dry). Emollients in this formulation (palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone and helianthus annuus seed oil) help to reduce the moisture loss from the skin. They also soften the skin surface and relieve the feeling of dryness and tightness.
Ingredient callouts
- We like that this moisturizer contains peptides (palmitoyl tripeptide-1 0.30% - 0.50%, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 0.25% - 0.45% and acetyl hexapeptide-1 0.20% - 0.35%). There are many different kind of peptides and they are naturally present in our skin. They all are a combination of amino-acids. Some of them work as natural anti-biotics, promote wound-healing and production of collagen. The science is still not settled on how effective peptides in skincare are, but it is very likely that they have a benefit. Peptides might help restore the skin barrier and fight the signs of aging. At the very least, peptides work as humectants: they attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improve its hydration.
- This formulation also includes actives derived from an extract of the Centella Asiatica plant (its other name is Gotu Kola): asiaticoside 0.20% - 0.40%, asiatic acid 0.25% - 0.45% and madecassic acid 0.25% - 0.45% The Centella Asiatica actives help strengthen and restore the skin barrier, decrease inflammation in skin and neutralize free radicals. They also can help to reduce scarring. The good news is that these actives work even in low concentrations.
Irritation risk
There are quite a few common irritants in this product, including ingredients without particular skin benefits. We would not recommend it for sensitive skin. We assess the overall irritancy of this moisturizer to be high. For a detailed overview of all potential irritants: click here
You can see the detailed formula review with the breakdown of all actives in the product and the full ingredient list with estimated concentrations in the tables below.
Price
The product retails for 84.06A$ in Australia and for 40.00£ in the United Kingdom.
For a detailed price comparison: click here.
Anti-oxidation
This product contains antioxidants (asiaticoside, carnosine, glycyrrhetinic acid) that can help neutralize free radicals in skin. By doing so, they can lessen the damage the skin gets from the UV light (sun).
The following ingredients - creatine also can have an antioxidant effect, but there is less evidence to confirm their effectiveness in skin.
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
A plant extract that might help neutralize free radicals in skin
Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"
An anti-oxidant that helps stabilize product formulations. Might help neutralise free radicals in skin
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
A more stable but less bio-available form of vitamin E compared to Tocopherol. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients.
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Moisturizing
What does the product description say?
Its light and cooling texture moisturises, smoothes lines & wrinkles and firms the skin whilst providing a longer-lasting tan.
Source: Naos Store
This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients.
The first type is called “humectants”:
these ingredients help attract water.
When humectants are on the surface of the skin, they “pull in” the moisture from the outside environment, or from
within deeper layers of the skin. The following ingredients in this product do the job:
artemia extract, carnosine.
This product also contains ingredients called “occlusives”. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses moisture to the outside environment. These ingredients also help soften the upper layer of the skin, so it feels less tight and nicer to the touch. The following ingredients in this product do the job: caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone.
The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with the hydration level: acetyl hexapeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1
One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Naturally present in skin. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A good mix of fatty acids that forms a protective layer on the skin. Improves the shelf life of products. Derived from coconut and glycerin
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and asiatic acid), madecassic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Helps attract water to the most upper layer of the skin. Derived from sugar
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish
Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Is often used to adjust the pH level of the product
A great emollient due to its high linoleic acid content. One of the most effective plant oils in helping skin hydration and repairing skin barrier function
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Consists of remains of dead bacteria cells. Is likely helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin. Might be helpful in reducing inflammation and neutralizing free radicals in skin. It is claimed to be a "DNA repair enzyme"
Zooplankton extract that can attract water to the upper level of the skin and might have some anti-oxidant effect
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (asiaticoside, madecasosside and madecassic acid) asiatic acid has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A silicone that helps improve the product texture and spreadability. Can absorb oil creating a short-term mattifying effect on the skin
A non-drying alcohol. Works as an emollient. Helps water and oil mix together and creates a nice product texture
A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together
Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin. At the same time, it can weaken the skin's barrier enhancing penetration of other ingredients and increasing the risk of skin dryness
Used to preserve products, dissolve other ingredients and create a nice product texture
Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin
A silicone that serves as an emollient. Helps create a nice non-greasy feels
Helps soften the upper layer of the skin while creating a non-greasy feel on the skin. Helps to dissolve other ingredients
An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. Helps water and oil mix together
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Used mostly for creating emulsions - helping oil and water mix together. Helps soften the upper layer of the skin
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Anti-aging
What does the product description say?
AFTER SUN REPAIR FIRMING ANTI-WRINKLE FACE CARE
Source: From product name
This product contains acetyl hexapeptide-1, asiaticoside, carnosine, creatine, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1. These ingredients might be able to help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness, but there is not enough evidence that it actually works.
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
A type of peptide. Peptides are excellent moisturizers and might be able support collagen production reducing fine lines and wrinkles
An active compound of Centella Asiatica plant extract. In combination with other active compounds of Centella Asiatica extract (madecasosside, asiatic acid and madecassic acid), asiaticoside has been shown to be helpful in wound-healing, restoring skin barrier function and supporting collagen production in skin. It can, however, itself be irritating
A type of peptide. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. It can help neutralize free radicals in skin combatting the sun damage
Can support skin's ability to neutralize free radicals and produce collagen, though further research is needed to confirm effectiveness
Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
Seaweed extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. Also shows promise of anti-aging properties, but good research is lacking at the moment
Evens skin tone
The following ingredient (ingredients) in this product might be helpful, but there is no evidence to confirm that it actually works: glycyrrhetinic acid.
Active compound of licorice root. Works to calm down inflammation, as an anti-oxidant, and might be helpful in lightening the skin and reducing hyperpigmentation
Typically used to stabilize the product formulations. It is a salt of polyhydroxy acid (PHA) and in larger concentrations, can help shed the dead cells from the skin surface revealing smoother skin. It can help attract water to the upper layer of the skin. Might to be helpful against acne and clogged pores. Could be helpful in neutralizing free radicals, but solid research is missing
How honest is this product?
| Promise | Can it deliver? |
|---|---|
| Moisturizing | |
| Anti-aging |
Total Promises Fulfilled score: 87/100.
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Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
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Key Actives
Potential irritants
Comedogenic ingredients
All ingredients
Ingredient list view
Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/capric triglyceride, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl alcohol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dicaprylyl ether, Dimethicone, Dipropylene glycol, Glyceryl stearate, Peg-100 stearate, Xylitol, Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/vp copolymer, Cetearyl glucoside, Cetyl alcohol, Creatine, Methylpropanediol, Pentylene glycol, Butylene glycol, Trilinolein, 1,2-hexanediol, Caprylyl glycol, Oleoyl tyrosine, Propylene glycol, Disodium edta, Parfum, Tocopheryl acetate, Glycyrrhetinic acid, Triolein, Tripalmitin, Oleic acid, Oryzanol, Pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Helianthus annuus seed oil, Trilinolenin, Sodium hydroxide, Linalool, Hexyl cinnamal, Hydroxycitronellal, Aminoethanesulfinic acid, Carbomer, Medicago sativa extract, Sodium lactate, Tristearin, Sodium dextran sulfate, Polysorbate 20, Limonene, Carnosine, Morus alba leaf extract, Acetyl citrull amido arginine, Asiaticoside, Benzyl benzoate, Madecassic acid, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Triarachidin, Geraniol, Asiatic acid, Citronellol, Laminaria digitata extract, Artemia extract, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol, Bht, Palmitoyl tripeptide-1, Potassium sorbate, Copper gluconate, Lecithin, Micrococcus lysate, Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, Sodium methylparaben, Acetyl hexapeptide-1, Dextran, Water, Disodium adenosine triphosphate, Carnosine, Mineral salts
- Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions
- Dimethicone as a protective ingredient in topical medications
- Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Dimethicone Copolyol
- Dermal penetration of creatine from a face-care formulation containing creatine, guarana and glycerol is linked to effective antiwrinkle and antisagging efficacy in male subjects
- Folic acid and creatine improve the firmness of human skin in vivo
- The Creatine Kinase System in Human Skin: Protective Effects of Creatine Against Oxidative and UV Damage In Vitro and In Vivo
- The influence of alkane chain length on the skin irritation potential of 1,2-alkanediols
- Surfactants and experimental irritant contact dermatitis
- Propylene Glycol
- Skin-sensitizing and irritant properties of propylene glycol
- Glycyrrhetinic acid, the active principle of licorice, can reduce the thickness of subcutaneous thigh fat through topical application
- Effects of topical application of B‐Resorcinol and Glycyrrhetinic acid monotherapy and in combination with fractional CO2 laser treatment for benign hand hyperpigmentation treatment
- 18β-Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glabridin Prevent Oxidative DNA Fragmentation in UVB-irradiated Human Keratinocyte Cultures
- Anti-Inflammatory and Skin Barrier Repair Effects of Topical Application of Some Plant Oils
- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/0168365995000887
- Antioxidant activity of gamma-oryzanol: Mechanism of action and its effect on oxidative stability of pharmaceutical oils
- Skin Anti-aging Assays of Proanthocyanidin Rich Red Rice Extract, Oryzanol and Other Phenolic Compounds
- Safety Assessment of Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-t-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate as Used in Cosmetics
- Effect of Olive and Sunflower Seed Oil on the Adult Skin Barrier: Implications for Neonatal Skin Care
- Topically Applied Sunflower Seed Oil Prevents Invasive Bacterial Infections in Preterm Infants in Egypt
- Effect of topically applied lipids on surfactant-irritated skin
- Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries
- Antioxidant Activity and Cytotoxicity of Medicago sativa L. Seeds and Herb Extract on Skin Cells
- Biological activities of the natural imidazole-containing peptidomimetics n-acetylcarnosine, carcinine and l-carnosine in ophthalmic and skin care products
- Centella asiatica in cosmetology
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Contact dermatitis due to Madecassol
- Centella asiatica in Dermatology: An Overview
- Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts
- The Effects of Purified Artemia Extract Proteins on Proliferation, Differentiation and Apoptosis of Human Leukemic HL-60 Cells
- Vitamin E in dermatology
- Vitamin E and Skin Health
- Applications of hydroxy acids: classification, mechanisms, and photoactivity